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Dans Club
December 7, 2020
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Addendum added on thread 12/21/22
By "Zombie Mode", I am more frequently getting "double-taps" on the single trigger pull.
Any Explanations to offer?
Also it hates steel-cased ammo. Does not eject steel casings, jamming after every shot.
Since I also average a jam about every 60 shots with brass, is this a spring issue?
DWF Supporters
July 12, 2020
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Yes, I already thought you needed a little more poundage on the recoil. I think your perceived double tap is the hammer following the slide as that is a very dangerous condition that can result in a full auto unloading of a mag, YIKES!!!!!!!!!! It could be a worn part in the action, weak sear spring or possibly an over-adjusted over travel set screw.
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Dans Club
March 25, 2013
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Or too light a trigger pull. My Ruger SR 1911 and my Pointman Major C from Norwich are prone to doubletaps if I am not paying attention. The Pointman is tight as a drum and the Ruger is a loose goose but the trigger pull is down in the 3lb range on both. I am sure that is not YOUR problem but I am not very experienced and need fto develop trigger control.
I would LOVE to have at least one 1911 with that full auto problem. 😈. For those special situations.
As far as the steel cases, don't use them.
October 2, 2021
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My new Guardian started doing that at about 600 rounds fired, when I double tapped. Full auto. Trigger pull was 3.5 lbs. I replaced the original sear spring (highly polished) with a standard Springfield Armory sear spring. Trigger pull went to 4.25 lbs. I could not feel the difference but could consistently measure it. Extensive testing and IDPA matches followed, now over 3000 rounds fired, no out of control discharges.
Dans Club
December 7, 2020
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Scout728 said
By "Zombie Mode", I am more frequently getting "double-taps" on the single trigger pull.Any Explanations to offer?
Also it hates steel-cased ammo. Does not eject steel casings, jamming after every shot.
Since I also average a jam about every 60 shots with brass, is this a spring issue?
09/28 Update: I had not taken action on the occasional double-taps, but will pickup a sear spring next week. Today I had a few, but a new issue arose. Often the PM9 would operate as a "Single Action" only. Out of 60+ rounds today, I had 12+ rounds that were fired by manually cocking hammer as SA after starting DA. And 3 sets of double-taps.
Things that were different today vs. any other day: Mags were fully loaded and stored 2 weeks ago....(weak springs?) It's been about 200-300 rounds since I last cleaned it.
DWF Supporters
July 12, 2020
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If your hammer is still following the slide, weak sear spring, sear/hammer interface problem, or over adjusted over travel screw. I'd start with taking some adjustment out of the over travel screw as there is no need to wait for parts just an allen key most cases. Since this has been doing it since you got it, it could have been a previous owner not knowing how to set it properly.
October 2, 2021
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I am a bit confused. You say ... Often the PM9 would operate as a "Single Action" only. ...
Unless I'm missing something here, it is a 1911 and, as such, is "single action only" all the time. There is no double action mechanism in a 1911 where you can pull the trigger and it cocks the hammer (first action) and then releases it as you pull it further (second action).
The semi auto function cocks the hammer as part of slide movement. Are you referring to a situation where the hammer is down after cycling and you have to thumb cock it to fire? If so that is a result of the hammer failing to lock back as designed and following the slide forward. If it is something else I am just not understanding the situation.
DWF Supporters
July 12, 2020
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I'm taking it as hammer follow, he has to manually cock the hammer for the next shot, not a good thing on a 1911.
Dans Club
December 7, 2020
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jaykelley said
I am a bit confused. You say ... Often the PM9 would operate as a "Single Action" only. ...Unless I'm missing something here, it is a 1911 and, as such, is "single action only" all the time. There is no double action mechanism in a 1911 where you can pull the trigger and it cocks the hammer (first action) and then releases it as you pull it further (second action).
The semi auto function cocks the hammer as part of slide movement. Are you referring to a situation where the hammer is down after cycling and you have to thumb cock it to fire? If so that is a result of the hammer failing to lock back as designed and following the slide forward. If it is something else I am just not understanding the situation.
Recently, after firing a round, it would not continue to fire simply by squeezing trigger. But, if I cock the hammer back it would fire. I would again have to I cock the hammer back to fire a round.
October 2, 2021
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Got it. Thanks for the clarification.
What is happening is the hammer is cocked as part of the action cycling but while it is supposed to be held in that rearward cocked position as the slide goes forward and loads the next round into the chamber, it is following the slide forward and becoming uncocked. Depending upon the timing this can cause an unexpected firing - double tap with single press of the trigger - or no ability to then fire by pressing the trigger since the action has become uncocked. By manually moving the hammer to the rear you are cocking it once more so it can fire. For some reason the sear is not staying in the notch cut in the hammer, holding it in the cocked position.
Dans Club
December 7, 2020
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jaykelley said
Got it. Thanks for the clarification.What is happening is the hammer is cocked as part of the action cycling but while it is supposed to be held in that rearward cocked position as the slide goes forward and loads the next round into the chamber, it is following the slide forward and becoming uncocked. Depending upon the timing this can cause an unexpected firing - double tap with single press of the trigger - or no ability to then fire by pressing the trigger since the action has become uncocked. By manually moving the hammer to the rear you are cocking it once more so it can fire. For some reason the sear is not staying in the notch cut in the hammer, holding it in the cocked position.
Is the fix a new sear spring?
October 2, 2021
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It certainly could be. It was in my case. If you have any other 1911, swap in it’s sear spring and see if the problem goes away. It could also be a problem with the notch in the hammer where the spring makes contact but that is less likely. Others have suggested it could be a problem with the over travel set screw but I don’t have any personal experience in that area.
Efforts to lighten the trigger pull can cause the sear spring to be made very light and if it doesn’t have enough pressure to hold the hammer in a cocked position it can follow the slide forward. A simple part swap will tell the tale. The trigger pressure required to break a shot should increase a bit, but not much. This means the spring is pressing more firmly into the notch that holds the hammer cocked until it is released.
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