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November 3, 2019
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I'd been looking for a 44 that wouldn't cause my wallet to spontaneously combust for quite some time. Finally found one yesterday at a gun show. It's definitely a shooter, not a collector piece, which puts it right up my alley. The frame, cylinder and vented barrel are in good condition but the barrel shround ain't quite so good. It doesn't show well in these photos, but there's pitting at the muzzle on both sides. I'll be on the lookout for another barrel assembly and if I can't find one after a while, I'll hit CZ up to order one, probably a 4" or 6" as this is a brick with the 8" barrel.
I was very thankful to have found the various threads on disassembly/reassembly of the large frame Dans... even so, I might have said a couple of bad words before finally tying the hand and transfer bar together with dental floss to get it reassembled. I was able to reach down into the frame with the hammer cocked, cut the floss with a sharp dental tool and pull it out. Still, hoping not to have to do it again... it was worse than servicing a HK G36 trigger and that's saying something!
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Moderators
January 24, 2009
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The first time is always the hardest.
I've had many of my large frame DW's apart & reassembled over the years (I like to keep my junk clean),
and while they are much harder than small frame DW's, once you get used to them, they aren't too bad. BUT...that 1st time is always the B!TCH. BTW, thanks for the
, always love fresh DW porn.
*EDIT* I just noticed you have a short hammer spur...that means you have an early .44 gun (unless it's been modified). Now I'm kinda jealous! 
I've been lusting after a nice early gun for years. I can't zoom in on your S/N, but if it's a 4-digit number (some made it into the early 5-digit numbers)...that puts the manufacture date sometime in 1981. In case you were wondering. 
July 15, 2017
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Just a tip, since I also used to tie the Connector and Hand together to reassemble as well.
You can reassemble a large frame Dan Wesson without tying the Connector and Hand together by leaving the Hammer inside the frame. You just have to pull the trigger back completely when putting the Trigger Guard back in place. You can do the same thing when taking the revolver apart which prevents you from having to either take off the rear sight or completely loosen the rear sight screw.
November 3, 2019
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Charger Fan, the hammer hasn't been modified that I can see. Sorry about the low-res photos; the serial number is in the 0093XX range. I didn't know about the hammer. Thank you, I learn something new every time I come in here!
I'll be a little sad if I have to go with the current heavy shroud from CZ. There's something about the way this revolver looks with the vented shroud that's in balance. While it seems much heavier than my 8 3/8" Smith 629, I think the balance is better. I just received the Hogue Monogrip that I ordered, that makes it feel even better in the hand. I'm really looking forward to getting it to the range.
David, I tried holding the trigger back and getting everything in there with the hammer inside the frame but either the hand would pop off of the trigger or the transfer bar would pop off the hand... or both, usually followed by a few Anglo-Saxonisms from me. I didn't mind loosening the rear sight, just counted the clicks to bottom it out before removing the sight elevation screw and set it at the same setting after reinstalling it. Since I haven't shot it yet, it shouldn't be a problem.
I guess some of you guys have better dexterity than me... think I'll stick with the floss solution if I ever do it again!
July 15, 2017
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I took some pictures to better show how to get things back together.
Just to make sure we're all at the same starting point the mainspring retaining screw needs to be in place and the hammer pivot pin removed.
At that point you can use a punch to push in the trigger assembly latch and pull the trigger to pull out the trigger guard.
The next part was pretty hard to take pictures of because you really need two hands, but here we go.
To reassemble pinch the Hand and Connector together. Pull the trigger so they protrude and slip them into the frame. Once they're in the frame and in front of the hammer they can't slip out or move around. You can release the trigger at that point and just push in the trigger assembly latch and put the trigger guard back into place.
When the hand and connector are in place like this you're good to go.
Also if you're looking for Vented Barrel Assemblies, Dan Wesson makes them to order in stainless or blued. Just email Genny@cz-usa.com
Orders take about 6 weeks to fulfill and here were the prices for Vented Light Weight barrel assembles in 44 mag as of April 2021.
4" $359.80 6" $425.60 8" $523.60 10" $606.20 Vented Heavy Barrel Assemblies prices
2.5” $190.00 4” $257.00 6” $304.00 8” $374.00 10” $433.00
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Dans Club
March 25, 2013
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Wow! That's quite a premium for a non heavy shroud. Good to know. Usually on the resell market the VH barrels go for a premium. I suspect that may change.
November 3, 2019
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David, thanks for the clear photos... I had the revolver lying on its side when trying it. Maybe that explains why I had trouble.
I also appreciate the price list for the barrel assemblies. Those prices do look better than what folks think their barrels are worth on eBay or Gunbroker!
November 3, 2019
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Finally broke down and bought a new 4" barrel from DW... now it's a 44VH, I guess. Took it out to the range on Saturday and it shot well but a little right of point of aim with the new barrel... until it locked up. The cylinder wouldn't rotate although with the cylinder swung out, I could operate the trigger and the hand moved normally. It was a bit of a mystery until I found what looked like a piece of bullet jacket that had bound the cylinder. That was a new one on me! It functions correctly now, but given that Mother Nature has decided to dump on us this week I don't know when I'll get out to test it and get it sighted in again. The barrel/cylinder gap was set at 0.06" but I may reduce it a little.
DWF Supporters
July 12, 2020
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Had this same thing happen to my 715. My misfire stripped the whole copper jacket off of the bullet. The cylinder was not in full lock up, it could be rocked .100 or so into alignment. I found the screws on the side plate were extremely loose. I tightened them and have not had a problem since. Must not have held the proper tension on the hand to function correctly.
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