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August 20, 2023
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I have my Monson 15-2, seems to be in great shape, good shooter. A few quirks I'll need to adjust to; seems the cylinder doesn't open quite as far as the "other" Wesson's, far enough, but I need to learn to instinctively align the chambers to eject smoothly. A litttle bit of a mid-stroke "hump" in DA work, but I'll look at that, that may be a "get used to" as well. Now, the sights; I love a clean black blade without outline, and like horizontal grooving even better. Serrated! But MY existing rear sight blade has the faded white outline that was popular back in the day. Which is the easiest way to get into a "serrated rear blade" on my new gun, swap a whole new rear sight, or does someone make a serrated rear blade for the Dan Wesson? Is there something about Ruger rear sights interchanging? Like a Bowen or such? A deep serrated notch. Is it "swiss watch" tough to change a rear blade on this rear sight body? Also, towards the other end of the gun, in general, how difficult is it to actually change front sights on the typical, well maintained Dan Wesson barrel shroud? Should I administer a drop of Kroil right away?
Went looking through my holster drawer, I have all KINDS of holsters that are close or near perfect for all my barrels, good thing I'm a holster hoarder! A Man Gear Alaska for a 4", a kydex for the 2.5" and a Strong Leather 4" N frame that has a tension screw and a hammer shield that might work. No shortage!
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Dans Club
March 25, 2013
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I suspect this is your first Dan Wesson. The "Other" Wessons would be S&W 's? They are very different. I started collecting Dan Wessons but have branched out into pre war Smiths, Scandium Smiths and others. You cannot treat a DW as a S&W.
The rear sights of a Dan are very difficult to work on. Better to replace it with another to your liking. Ruger firesights are workable. The front sights are interchangable. A barrel tool has the Allen wrench to remove it. If for some reason the screw won't come out it may have been loctited in. Never overtighten a screw or barrel nut on a DW. Snug is good.
Don't treat the lockwork like a Smith. Trigger, hammer, sear, etc are MIM. They are only hardened on the surface. No filing or you will remove the hardened surface and ruin the part. Light polishing where parts show rubbing helps. Also smoothing the inside frame and sideplate can reduce friction but don't make it glassy or it will create surface tension when lubed. The best way to make the action smoother is to use Wolfe reduced power springs. Use the 8 lb mainspring. The 71/2lb spring may result in light strikes. The single best thing you can do IMHO is to use the Wolfe trigger return spring. It smooths out the DA pull. That hump you mentioned may disappear. And the scratchy feeling is reduced
August 20, 2023
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What gave it away? 😉 And yes, it basically is my first DW, but emphatically NOT my first wheel gun at all. I suspected as much on the rear sight, seems like I may have read it somewhere before. If I find an entire new rear sight, do they generally seem to just replace okay in the rear sight mortise? They don't have to have their crosspin drilled or anything? I'll just be careful on the front sights, but I do want a Partridge blade on the two long ones.
All that info on the action is good to know, so even an 1980ish vintage lockwork is only surface hardened?
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Dans Club
March 25, 2013
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Yes, all Dans are MIM lockwork with the possible exception of Norwich guns. The MIM enables parts to be drop in and not hand fitted like Smiths. Dans are modular and a gunsmith is rarely needed. In fact, most Smith and Wesson Gunsmiths can ruin a Dan Wesson. Rebarrels, different grips are all user friendly jobs.
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