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April 9, 2024
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Today’s question: Is the mainspring seat supposed to be “fixed” in place? Thread locker or some other means? I’m asking because I’m wondering how to keep it from backing out every time the grip screw is loosened?
Randy
Dans Club
December 5, 2008
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Yes, the seat is supposed to be fixed in place. This is usually done at the factory by peening the metal around the base of the seat, but I think some Red or even Blue Loctite might accomplish the same thing. I did have one 15-2 that was not peened and I ended up having to buy a longer screw than the side plate screw to be able to catch the mainspring guide for disassembly. I used Loctite to fix the seat in place.
April 9, 2024
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snake-eye said
Yes, the seat is supposed to be fixed in place. This is usually done at the factory by peening the metal around the base of the seat, but I think some Red or even Blue Loctite might accomplish the same thing. I did have one 15-2 that was not peened and I ended up having to buy a longer screw than the side plate screw to be able to catch the mainspring guide for disassembly. I used Loctite to fix the seat in place.
Is there a known depth that it’s supposed to be at?
Dans Club
December 5, 2008
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Not sure about standard depth. If I remember correctly there are only a few threads showing from the bottom of the frame.
Another member probably knows and hopefully will chime in.
I will look at a few of my Dans and see if there is a number I can give you.
October 18, 2017
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I own three early DW’s, and no two have the same number of threads showing. One has just one, the second has two, and the third has four. I’ve never had a problem with changing grips or disassembly on any of them. The best thing I can suggest is to get some blue loctite on the threads and seat it with a thread or two showing. It’s really not that critical.
April 9, 2024
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3ric said
I own three early DW’s, and no two have the same number of threads showing. One has just one, the second has two, and the third has four. I’ve never had a problem with changing grips or disassembly on any of them. The best thing I can suggest is to get some blue loctite on the threads and seat it with a thread or two showing. It’s really not that critical.
Doesn’t the seat affect the pressure on the hammer spring and the trigger pull?
Dans Club
February 24, 2013
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Maybe put it into place without loctite at first, shoot it to see how it performs, then once you’ve determined best seating depth make note of how many threads are exposed and take back out, add loctite and reinsert to said depth?
Ive never had to take any of my Dans apart so I’m a newb on internal components.
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Dans Club
March 25, 2013
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Definately what Kurt said. Kurt, The Average Joe Tuneup is very easy to do. I can barely use a screwdriver but the Allen wrenches make it easy. Once you do one or two it is like riding a bicycle. I have built several 15-2s from parts and bare frames. Just remember, don't pry the sideplate off, use a wooden screwdriver handle to tap the grip tang. Don't lose the crane lock and use a cleaning rod to hold the guide rod in place while you remove the long sideplate screw from the grip tang.
Dans Club
February 24, 2013
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I guess my motto is if it ain’t broke don’t fix it and fortunately I’ve not had a single Dan need any internal work yet. I’ve had some issues with barrel nuts being stuck tho!!! Still need a 15” barrel for my 15” shroud. Eric said he is planning to create some 15” barrels and he said he has put my name on a list to contact when he does. Hopefully sometime soon.
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DWF Supporters
June 11, 2016
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Eric sent me an email that said he would have barrels last spring. I would not hold my breath, he knows once they are available they will sell fast but still new barrels.
Dans Club
February 24, 2013
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I was afraid of that!
April 9, 2024
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Ole Dog said
Definately what Kurt said. Kurt, The Average Joe Tuneup is very easy to do. I can barely use a screwdriver but the Allen wrenches make it easy. Once you do one or two it is like riding a bicycle. I have built several 15-2s from parts and bare frames. Just remember, don't pry the sideplate off, use a wooden screwdriver handle to tap the grip tang. Don't lose the crane lock and use a cleaning rod to hold the guide rod in place while you remove the long sideplate screw from the grip tang.
Cleaning rod and holding the guide rod in place?? Can you explain what your talking about please?
Dans Club
February 24, 2013
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thegunguy said
Today’s question: Is the mainspring seat supposed to be “fixed” in place? Thread locker or some other means? I’m asking because I’m wondering how to keep it from backing out every time the grip screw is loosened?Randy
I came across this older thread related to your question. It may not help you, but thought I’d err on the side of giving information that isn’t helpful rather than none. I hope it does help.
https://www.danwessonforum.com/forum/parts-and-service/mainspring-seat-for-a-model-15/
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Dans Club
March 25, 2013
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You cock the hammer and screw the long sideplate screw into the main spring seat. That will capture, hold the mainspring in place. Take the sideplate off and release the trigger return spring.from it's place on the trigger ledge. Now the hammer can be removed. You take all the lockwork out of the frame. The mainspring is still compressed on the guide rod and captured by the sideplate screw. You need to unscrew the sideplate screw to release the spring and remove it and the guide rod, but when you do the guide rod and spring will go flying across the room and maybe hit you in the eye if you are not careful. I use a hollow aluminum cleaning rod with no attachment on the end to hold the guide rod in place while I unscrew the sideplate screw. Once free, you can remove rod and spring. When you put everything back together you use the cleaning rod to hold the guide rod and spring in place while you screw the long sideplate screw back in. Now you can replace trigger, hammer, trigger return spring, etc and then unscrew the sideplate screw and put the sideplate back on. "The Average Joe Tuneup" has pictures of every step. Using a cleaning rod to do this will bugger the threads on the end of it so I have one just for doing that.
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