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October 1, 2010
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I need a head start.
My continued researching and reading of this forum has, on top of the excellent calendar picture entries, sooo raised the bar on quality and artistry of presentation.
There’s nothing like digital photography, macro capability & computer editing to let you know you’ve only been cleaning, not detailing. And to show the ‘character’ marks!
I’d like to detail the WidowMaker pistol pack and take some proper pictures. In my climate we’re moving indoors for the winter so any photography I attempt I need to:
invent some indoor lighting? and a light box?
Excellent winter project.
How do you detail your firearms? My situation is that I’ve only ever shot & cleaned.
I’m guessing that for some of the pieces it might be better to totally submerse (in what?) and give them a good scrubbing with a clean, soft toothbrush?
Use the same (in what) to clean other pieces?
Then lubricant and polishing techniques?
Please share your trade secrets and I’ll share the pics.
thanks
"close isn't good enough" 
Dans Club
March 2, 2008
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As far as photos, I'm no expert, but I have gotten good results with a couple of inexpensive clamp mount lights, but I use a "Daylight" temperature bulb in them. I found them in a craft/hobby store, and I use them for indirect lighting.
Detailing? Clean thoroughly, toothbrush for cracks, crevices, corners. Polish with Flitz (or use Mothers Mag Wheel polish for stainless). Then wax it.
I went to a bookstore and asked the saleswoman "Were is the Self Help Section?" She said if she told me, it would defeat the purpose.
George Carlin
October 1, 2010
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"close isn't good enough"
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January 24, 2009
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I don't submerge mine in any cleaners. I use a variety of brushes, rags & cleaners to get my guns clean. Toothbrushes work great for crevices & would easily clean the areas you pictured. Also, I try to not rub the outer bluing very hard & when I do rub it, I make sure to use a soft cloth. I don't want to cause any hazy areas.
After I clean, lightly oil & reassemble, I wax my blued guns with Mother's. Stainless guns get a rubdown with Flitz polish. The wax application & removal on my blued guns is done with a super-soft microfiber car detailing cloth.
Pics? My camera doesn't like to cooperate much with indoor pics, so I usually do mine outdoors...but am still working on my technique.
October 1, 2010
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Clean & detail
We all have our own ways. I now realize my procedures weren’t thorough enough!
I use a variety of gun cleaners but am partial to the smell of Hoppe’s. I also use 99% Isopropyl alcohol for the smaller work. (the highest % leaves the smallest footprint. Back in the day we used it on the data centre tape drive heads when maintenance dictated. It evaporates very fast.)
Polish
My DW is blue. I’ve never polished, other than a cloth buffing after oiling.
When you polish with flitz what are you trying to achieve? Luster, depth, overall finish? (google says blueing is 0.0001"/2.5micrimetres! guess that's the holster wear issue. (I've never had any of my firearms in a holster and I’m a shooter)). This step makes me nervous.
Wax
I'd have never thought of wax. Works for cars.
Can you apply the wax over any residual oil still on the pieces?
Does the wax 'seal' & you don't have to worry about rusting? Oil won't penetrate through the wax anyway so it’s a barrier?
Is the wax like a camera session tip & you remove it and do what you did, or do you store it like that?
If it's a shooter do you strip off the wax and go back to regular maintenance?
Sorry for all the questions but would like to get this project off on the right foot.
tia
"close isn't good enough"
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January 24, 2009
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44magvh said:
Wax
I'd have never thought of wax. Works for cars.
Can you apply the wax over any residual oil still on the pieces?
Does the wax 'seal' & you don't have to worry about rusting? Oil won't penetrate through the wax anyway so it’s a barrier?
Is the wax like a camera session tip & you remove it and do what you did, or do you store it like that?
If it's a shooter do you strip off the wax and go back to regular maintenance?
Sorry for all the questions but would like to get this project off on the right foot.
tia
I try to wipe off most of the residual oil before I lay on the wax. However, if there is some oil left on the surface, wax will usually overtake it well enough so it's not too noticeable.
I haven't tried the "wax versus rust test", but I would imagine it will seal the outer surface pretty well. Of course, you'll always want to oil the innards like normal, especially if you're in a high humidity area.
For me, the wax is always the final step...wipe on, let dry, wipe off. Just like a car.
The gun is stored waxed & shiny. When it's time for a range trip, I run a cleaning patch down the cylinder holes & the barrel, then hit the range.
When I get home, it's cleaned, lightly oiled, waxed & put away again.
That's the blued guns, mind you...my stainless guns get Flitz polish instead of wax. Flitz does make them gradually more shiny though, as it smooths out the stainless finish. So if you're wanting to keep that original brushed finish, you may not want to do Flitz too often.
Hope that helps.
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