May 3, 2011
I see ads all the time for gun oil 2 oz. for 5-8.00. I hate to spend that kind of money on oil. Some of the shooter I know say, "A quart of high grade motor oil works just as good." A quart of oil for 4-5 dollars would last a long time. What do you guys think about this idea? Remember rod bearings in an engine are lubricated down to .010 of an inch. I have used motor oil and it works for me. You just need a small container with a nozzle end to dispense it.
Supporter
DWF Supporters
May 15, 2011
In my opinion, don't use oil at all. Use grease. I use grease on every moving part of my firearms… in fact, every mechanism I build, service or maintain gets grease unless there is an oil reservoir.
I've been using and am very happy with XF7 weapons grease on everything from my Ruger 22/45 to my milsurp bolt guns and my Garands and M14s. Even the plastic guns, my HK USP40 and sisters Glock22 get this grease.
It goes a long way and stays in place.
Supporter
Range Officer
Range Officers
May 2, 2009
February 11, 2010
All depends on conditions and cleaning intervals, Like Sweeney said
grease can work great but could you imagine being in the most dirt
and dust filled conditions and not able to clean for weeks maybe a month
at a time ? That stuff would cake like gritty kitty litter, not to mention
it would hold all the grit against your parts causing them to accelerate
wear. Thick oil can have a similar result but not as severe.
If your firearm stays in a clean enviroment and you clean out and
relube every so, and often, then anything from bacon fat to who knows
what should work fine.
-Blacktop
Dans Club
DWF Supporters
April 20, 2010
Ever since reading Shoot's advice here on DWF, I've been using ATF on my Dan Wesson internals with great results I believe.
For a container I went to Wallyworld and bought the cheapest little bottle of nail polish. I dumped out the paint, cleaned the bottle and little brush thoroughly with nail polish remover, dried it all out a couple days then filled it with ATF. Makes a handy little container and has a handy little applicator brush in it.
-Lonwolf
"The lion and the tiger may be more powerful, but the Wolf does not perform in the circus"
Range Officer
Range Officers
Dans Club
March 27, 2009
Dans Club
DWF Supporters
April 20, 2010
Supporter
Moderators
Dans Club
February 22, 2009
Sliding parts get Lubriplate (grease)
Rotating parts get ATF
Stuck parts get Kroil
Only US Army guns get CLP….
And this is why: http://www.grantcunningham.com/lubricants101.html
Later, Ron
Technically, the glass is always full; half liquid, half air....
May 3, 2011
rwsem said:
Sliding parts get Lubriplate (grease)
Rotating parts get ATF
Stuck parts get Kroil
Only US Army guns get CLP….
And this is why: http://www.grantcunningham.com/lubricants101.html
Later, Ron
That is a really good article. ATF is superior to motor oil.
December 26, 2010
I'm curious if anybody uses moly on their DW's. After seeing the gunk buildup inside my 740 and my P22, I have concerns about anything that can hold dust, dirt or whatever. The buildup was seizing the firing pin on my P22. I cleaned it all out and used Dry Slide Bike Aid. The moly is suspended in a liquid that dries. It cycles better than ever now.
My 740 is now almost completely dis-assembled. Cleaning to start soon. I'm seriously thinking of moly after some light polishing.
Thanks in advance.
Supporter
Moderators
January 24, 2009
The auto slide thing is something that I'm still experimenting on, with my 1911. So far I've used ATF, Mobil-1 & some Lubriplate assembly lube...all applied conservatively. Once I get a dozen rounds through the gun, it heats up the lube & starts dripping down the sides. I have to wipe it off 3 or 4 times, is this normal?
When I had my little .22 Automag, I used Mobil-1 on it & only had to wipe it once each range trip. I'm guessing it's because it didn't build up as much heat? Although with the heat issue on that one...I tried no lube a couple times & noticed the early stages of the slide metal galling, so I know there was some heat going on there.
Huh...FYI -
"Product Description Birchwood Casey Moly Lube Dry Film Lubricant. Designed to lubricate and penetrate... forming a smooth, extremely slippery surface on metal. Molybdenum disulfide particles are deposited onto metal surfaces and give maximum lubricity and wear resistance, even under extreme temperatures and pressures. Won't attract and hold dust, dirt or other contaminants! Easy-to-use Moly Lube Dry Film Lubricant uses an almost instant-drying solvent / degreaser as the carrier in a convenient, aerosol can. Especially suited for internal lubrication of moving parts on all firearms. Recommended for precision airguns where petroleum lubricants are not advised. 4 ozs. Get yours today! WARNING: This item cannot be shipped to Canada. Please check your State, County and City laws for restrictions before ordering this product. Birchwood Casey Moly Lube Dry Film Lubricant"
If you're going to drink, don't drive. Don't even putt.
February 11, 2010
Rem Oil with Teflon, apply lighty , dries up and leaves slick Teflon
film that dose not attract dust, dirt or grit.
Have shot as many as 500 rnds of hand gun auto and 1000's of
shotgun auto before a cleaning was done on either and never had
a problem. I do not use it in the bore though...I was getting some
first shot flyers after cleaning and confirmed others were having the
same. I use Hoppe's oil in the bore.
-Blacktop
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