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February 22, 2015
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Greetings all -
Have been chasing issues with my DW .357 for a while now. I purchased it new in the early 90's and with a "Palmer Mass" stamp, S0046XX serial number, and no barrel nut, I believe it to be a fixed barrel 715-2.
After the first 100 or so rounds the cylinder started to drag to the point that you could not pull the trigger in double action - a "dead stop." The only way it will fire at this point is to simultaneously rotate the cylinder by hand while cocking the hammer. With enough brute strength it will finally advance and fire. Once it is stone cold again, everything is back to normal until you shoot the next 3 or 4 rounds then the problem is back.
As a fixed barrel I don't believe there is anything I can do on the front side of the cylinder like can be done with its cousins with changeable barrels. Close inspection with a magnifying glass doesn't show any kind of drag or rub marks on the front of the cylinder. Same kind of inspection at the rear and on the ejection star doesn't reveal any kind of abnormal drag/scuff/ or wear marks.
I finally found a scuff mark on the front of the ejector rod and on close inspection the ejection rod wobbles roughly 0.010" about 0.060" from the tip. Magnification of the barrel recess for the ejection rod doesn't reveal any kind of bur or rub mark so I believe it to be rubbing on the machined edge of the recess as the cylinder advances into the bend in the rod.
It seems unlikely to me that where the bed is etc that this would be enough to make it nearly impossible for even a burly man to advance the cylinder, even by hand. But then I'm not a smith and what do I know?
Any thoughts or tips on what model this is, what this problem might be, and certainly where I might find a new ejector rod is more than appreciated. I am looking forward to my sons' getting the same enjoyment out of competing I always did. To finally get this fine machine in service for them to use would be the icing on the cake.
Cheers!
R
Dans Club
March 2, 2008
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That would be a 715 FB.
To eliminate the Barrel/Cylinder gap as the problem, check the gap on all six chambers, either visually or (preferably) with a set of flat feeler gauges. look for anything less than .002" as a potential problem.
Is it always the same chamber that hangs up?
Check to make sure that your grip screw is not overly tight.
Check to see if your firing pin is hanging up and not retracting fully back into the frame?
Use THIS Procedure to at least pull off the sideplate for a little internal cleanup, maybe change springs.
I went to a bookstore and asked the saleswoman "Were is the Self Help Section?" She said if she told me, it would defeat the purpose.
George Carlin
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Dans Club
March 27, 2009
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Good advice keep us posted!
February 22, 2015
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Many thanks gents!
I'll be back at it next weekend and post the results.
R
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Dans Club
February 22, 2009
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check fore and aft travel of the cylinder (end shake) as well. You may need a shim on the cylinder.
Technically, the glass is always full; half liquid, half air....
February 26, 2012
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A little late I know but you might check that the ejector rod is pushing the ejector star back into to recoil shield when the gun heats up. I know it sounds crazy but you say the cylinder rotates after you let the gun cool down? PM sent.
Democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what to have for dinner. Liberty is a well armed lamb contesting the vote.
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Dans Club
March 25, 2013
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All good advice. As Ron says, a trigger shim may help. Even if you don't have end shake it may give you enough of a cylinder gap to avoid it hanging up when the cylinder heats up. The feeler gauges will tell you if that is the problem. It may be that the gap is too small or the face of the cylinder is not perpendicular. Supposedly Palmer guns had some quality control issues. I am sure it is a fabulous gun in all other respects. It may need a trip back to DW if either of those things are the problem. I think there is a good chance DW would fix it for no charges. Good luck.
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