May 1, 2021
What is going on with these marks? Is my barrel fit to cylinder too loose?
Now I am wondering, should I cerakote this since the bluing seem ruined....
I can't tell for sure but it looks like the barrel cylinder gap is no existant. Do you have a barrel tool? The gap should be 6 thousandths of an inch. The gases from the cartridge has discolored the metal because there is not enough gap. Does the gun cycle easily?
Try using Flitz paste to polish your gun. Rub it in lightly with your fingers, let dry a bit and polish with a clean, dry, soft rag.. A cottonTee shirt works fine. Use a little elbow grease on the bad spots. If the bluing is removed or damaged you can get the cylinder only reblued. Ford' of Crystal River does excellent work. If you just sent the cylinder it would cost very little by USPS. Under $9. Read the thread "Average Joe Tuneup" in Gunsmithing for excellent instruction on disassembling the gun. It is a good thing to do to a almost 50 year old gun.
I would not spend the money for a total reblue. Unless the Barney, the plum color of the frame, bothers you. Better to have a little cosmetic issue than totally destroy the value by ceracoting it. It is automatic expulsion from the DWF to ceracote a DW. 😉😏. Just kidding, we accept anyone.
May 1, 2021
Ole Dog, thanks that is the opposite of what I expected! I expected too much gap, but now that you mention this it makes sense, too small of gap equals higher pressure equals higher heat, hence the marks on the cylinder.
Re: Bluing, thanks for the tips. I do not mind the plum color frame at all, the blued finish looks great in person and now the only issue is those "burn marks" on the cylinder. I will try to polish them out and worse case send it in for a re-blue or maybe another finish 🙂
October 17, 2017
These burn marks on the cylinder are normal for a revolver that is shot much. Not sure that the amount of cylinder/barrel gap has much to do with it. Some powders burn dirtier than others, but they all will leave their mark eventually. The use of a good powder solvent will work well; just be patient and give it time to do it’s work. I dip a Qtip in the bottle and apply generously, let it stand awhile, then scrub with the Qtip or a rag. In my experience it will never go away completely, so it’s just the mark of a “working” gun.rnThe only revolvers that are immune to this are the open tops. With no top strap for the hot gases to bounce off of, everything goes straight up!
February 21, 2011
I get similar marks but ONLY when I fire lead ammo not jacketed.
It won't come off with most solvents (I think because its vaporized lead from the rear of the bullet.) but it will eventually come off after several cleanings in routine use.
I do have the tool & the gap is correct.
Matthew Quigley on handguns:
“I said I never had much use for one. Never said
I didn't know how to use it.”
October 17, 2017
A full metal jacket bullet is different from a jacketed hollow point. In the hollow point, the lead core is pressed heel first into a copper cup which encloses the base of the bullet. In a full metal jacket, the lead core is pressed into the copper cup nose first thereby leaving the lead base exposed. There is a crimp around the edge, but the lead core will be exposed to the burning gasses, and some leading will be evident on the cylinder and forcing cone.
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