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May 3, 2011
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I was just wondering why some barrel nuts freeze or lock up on some pistols? I have read of some post where people have a terrible time getting them off.
1. Is it because people don't clean their pistols after shooting?
2. Is it because people leave them on there pistol for several years with out taking them off?
3. Do people sometimes tighten them way to tight?
4. Do hot loads and Super Mags guns freeze up more than others? If so is it because of the recoil and torque on the barrels?
5. I think barrel nuts work loose sometimes after shooting a lot too?
I'm just curious why this happens sometimes.
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Dans Club
February 22, 2009
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Technically, the glass is always full; half liquid, half air....
Range Officer
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February 28, 2009
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1. Yes.
2. Yes.
3. Yes.
4. Maybe.
5. Sometimes.
A little oil on the threads before reassembly will cure this problem.
-Mike
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November 17, 2008
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Ron and Mike gave good answers but I have one extra theory. I speculate that a shooter at the range shoots until his barrel is hot. Steel expands when heated so the barrel gets longer which means the shroud may now be loose. The shooter snugs up the barrel nut and continues. At a later point the shooter tries to remove the barrel nut after the gun has cooled down so now the nut is super tight and he strips the nut. It's just a theory but I believe it may sometimes contribute to stuck /stripped barrel nuts. Although I suspect lack of cleanning and poor technique with the barrel tool is the most common reason for stripped barrel nuts.
Wisdom is merely the realization of how little one knows, therefore I am wise.
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March 2, 2008
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zoommb said:
1. Yes.
2. Yes.
3. Yes.
4. Maybe.
5. Sometimes.
A little oil on the threads before reassembly will cure this problem.
-Mike
The best answer you will ever get to those questions, and regarding #3, not only Yes, but Hell Yes! You don't want it loose, but firm and pretty snug.
I went to a bookstore and asked the saleswoman "Were is the Self Help Section?" She said if she told me, it would defeat the purpose.
George Carlin
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March 27, 2009
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Somewhere DW may have listed a torque in inch pounds for these!
Great answers to great questions! 
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February 22, 2009
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I've always tighted to where it's snug, not tight. I use choke tube grease on the threads too.
In order to keep an eye on whether the nut or barrel rotates during a firing session, a dab of correcting fluid works well. Place a stripe across the nut and front of the shroud. Rotation is obvious with just a quick glance. This works well with any nut that may come loose.
I first started using this technique in the early eighties on Bradley road wheel nuts- something my platoon sergeant taught me. Often, we had to re-use the nuts because we didn't always have self locking nuts available.
Regards, Ron
Technically, the glass is always full; half liquid, half air....
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January 24, 2009
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Having clean threads on both the barrel & nut, with a little oil or grease upon reassembly, is a good preventative maintenance. I've found light oil, like "Rem oil" works fine for me. I oil the threads on both ends of the barrel. I've also contemplated using anti-seize on the threads, but so far, oil seems to work fine.
Regarding the "why" for stuck nuts, I bet LB's theory probably does account for many of the problems. That, and just plain not keeping things clean when reassembling.
May 3, 2011
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Thanks guy for the answers. It's a problem we try to get away from. I was shooting my 15-2 .357 yesterday and I have one of EWK's A-2 Bird cage flash hiders on it. It worked well but it also allowed me to tighten the barrel when it became loose just a bit. The way that flash hider is made it doesn't seem to me that you could ever get a lock ring stuck on a gun. You could use the flash hider as a leverage to break loose the lock ring and torque it if necessary. It seems to me to be a oz. of protection that would elliminate the lock ring from sticking or locking up. After shooting you could take it off and put the original ring back on. EWK could perhaps make an extruding lock ring 1/2 the size of the bird cage flash hider that would allow you to tighten and remove the lock ring after shooting and then replace it with the original. Just an idea.
October 13, 2009
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I don't think one would need the special extended nut as long as PM (preventive maintenance) and procedure are followed.
The ultimate is to put a dab of never seez on the threads. 
December 26, 2010
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EWK_Stuff said:
The ultimate is to put a dab of never seez on the threads.
Eric,
Is never seez the same as anti-seize? I thought anti-seize was intended where aluminum was meeting iron or steel (to prevent the galvanic action that bonds the two together.) Thanks.
alwayswillingtolearnfromthemasters 
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October 13, 2009
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95XL883 said
Eric,
Is never seez the same as anti-seize? I thought anti-seize was intended where aluminum was meeting iron or steel (to prevent the galvanic action that bonds the two together.) Thanks.
alwayswillingtolearnfromthemasters
Yep! Different names, never seez is a brand name…I use it almost everywhere working on stuff…if you have to take it back apart sometime, one will be glad they did! Used it on my truck a couple years back, and had to drop the transmission again this year...since I used the never seez, it was real easy, nothing was rusted up or frozen!
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March 27, 2009
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Just don't use it on anyting that spins fast (lawn mower nuts). I use copper coat on most everything that requires torque.
Never tested on a DW may have to try it!
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May 2, 2009
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Anti-seize compounds are great for their intended purpose--I have them in Copper/steel, aluminum/steel, brass, bronze, etc....
but, I have never found the need to use any of them on a DW...Just a few drops of gun oil on the CLEAN threads takes care of it.
In my opinion, the biggest thing is making sure the threads are clean--both on the barrel and the nut. I test run the nut several times on the barrel before I put it on for good. If I feel ANY resistance or grittiness, they both get cleaned angain and I start the process all over.
SHOOT
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March 2, 2008
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SHOOTIST357 said:
Anti-seize compounds are great for their intended purpose--I have them in Copper/steel, aluminum/steel, brass, bronze, etc....
but, I have never found the need to use any of them on a DW...Just a few drops of gun oil on the CLEAN threads takes care of it.
In my opinion, the biggest thing is making sure the threads are clean--both on the barrel and the nut. I test run the nut several times on the barrel before I put it on for good. If I feel ANY resistance or grittiness, they both get cleaned angain and I start the process all over.
SHOOT
This, and on both ends of the barrel
I went to a bookstore and asked the saleswoman "Were is the Self Help Section?" She said if she told me, it would defeat the purpose.
George Carlin
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