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December 22, 2011
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I've owned my 15-2 for about 15 years, but haven't shot it in about 10. I just reloaded some 158 gr. stuff up and tried it out. it shot fine with the exception of the primer strikes seeming to move around (wasn't checking any accuracy just looking at casings for pressure signs). Out of 30 rounds only 4 are what I would say as well centered. the rest the actual edge of the dimple is at the center of the primer, some worse than others by probly .020".
Is this some thing that should be addressed? I can see some wear in the cylinder lock notches, but it appears minor, like .005". and the total cylinder play is on par with my two other revolvers. There was no shaving of material on the forcing cone edge.
the other issue i noticed was, the little nub on the frame that keeps the cylinder from moving back when it is open overlaps the edge of the casing, so if the nub isn't in between two shells it prevents the ejector rod from being depressed. weird I never noticed that when I used to shoot it alot. has anyone seen this before?
where do you send dans for Parts/ work/ tuning? like if I needed a new cylinder or something.
Is gun broker the only place to get factory shrouded barrels these days, other than CZ?(who wants an arm and a leg) looking for 8" blued.
what have people reached as a MAX load in the 15-2. today I ran 14.2 grains of mag primed 2400 behind a 158 gr hollow point, and every thing looked OK.( the primer was just starting to flatten, less than I've seen in some factory .41 mag loads) My hornady manual says 13.5 which I also tried and it seemed quite conservative. also what about Win 296 I have a lb. of that sitting around too.
thanks guys, I'll try to post a pic if I can figure out the site.
December 26, 2010
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Welcome to the forum and thanks for the cool pic!
The only question I can help you with is the cylinder. If I ever buy a second cylinder again, I will send the whole gun to the factory. They sell the part "raw" and it has to be fitted to the gun. Mine was so close it seemed to work but I took it to a local smith who finished it. I doubt you need a new cylinder, though. I really didn't, I think I just wanted one. 
I had to have a new hand (and a new hammer and springs and trigger) and that did have to be fitted also. I got it pretty close but chickened out and let the smith finish it. It would have been quicker if I just sent the gun to DW and let them do it but I wanted to try it myself. 
I've never had a problem with ejecting shells due to the cylinder stop. Did something in the crane come loose or get bent? That may also explain the off center strikes.
If you don't want to send it to the factory, Mike Allee at Gunsmithing Only in Merriam KS is very good. He's very busy though. There is a guy in a small Iowa town (can't remember the name but his reputation is very slow and poor communication). I wouldn't use the Iowa guy.
HTH.
December 22, 2011
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I doubt the crane is messed up at all, it's tight, operates smoothly, opens and closes well. it seems like the side plate bump that blocks the rearward cyl movement is just a bit too big.
I answered my own ? with the loads….I dug up a Lyman book from 1979, lists 14.9 grs of 2400 with mag primers as max, and potentialy most accurate load.
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Range Officer
Range Officers
May 2, 2009
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Welcome to the DWF--Sounds like your 15 has some timing issues. One thing I can say for sure is your cylinder is not too big--they never grow !!!
You need to do a lot of eyeballing/measuring to make sure the crane is not bent and the cylinder is aligning properly.
First thing I would do is fire six shots--ensuring the cylinder is fully locked into place each time before pulling the trigger. Then examine the primers and we'll go from there.
Go check your DW right now--make sure your cylinder stop is not moving out of the frame--this could be why it seems to be blocking the star. If it is loose, you can lose it very easily.
SHOOT
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Dans Club
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November 17, 2008
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First 
to the 
. Next a random thought. Check the cylinder gap as if it is dragging that could cause the impression that the cylinder is too big. That is the easiest fix also so the best place to start. Also a serious cleaning is always the best place to start when diagnosing a problem. Get the simple stuff out of the way and you may have that timing issue. Good luck and don't hesitate to ask for more help.
LB
Wisdom is merely the realization of how little one knows, therefore I am wise.
December 22, 2011
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to edit my last post , I meant the stop on the sideplate was a bit too big. not the cylinder itself. It just covers the edge of the rim by about .020", and stops it from coming ejecting from the cylinder. sorry for the typo. the cylinder gap is @ about .004 I use a piece of copy paper instead of the .0006 gauge.it keeps the side blast down a bit. and is NOT dragging. I just checked and cleaned well today. I am a bit of a clean freak so I know there is no issue with gunk.
December 22, 2011
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just looked @ it some more. with the crane open looking down at the weapon, holding the cylinder, and the grip firmly, there is some play in the crane to frame joint, while torquing the muzzle left to right.
hope this description is understandable. not a lot of play mind you, but more than my 686.
thanks for the help guys. heres a pic not a dan but a cool pic
Range Officer
Range Officers
Dans Club
March 27, 2009
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Shoot posted up an average Joe tune up! may be just what she needs after 10 years!!
December 22, 2011
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that average joe tutorial is awesome. I think I will do that this winter.
December 22, 2011
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I think I figured it out…..after hearing a very light delayed click after single action cocking. I noticed the cylinder stop not fully engaging the slot. if I lightly drag the cylinder with my hand while cocking it will stop every time without full engagement. I could actually move it backwards at one point when it should have been locked up.
so it would appear to be out of time. My non pro smith guess would be the star, or hand is worn a bit not allowing full rotation?
what do I do? send it to DW?
May 17, 2010
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Welcome!
Seems you have been as good an answer as I could come with to most of the questions.
As far as reloading.. I have been having a blast with slower powders like lilgun. The 158gr JHP are really zingy with 17gr of LilGun.
I am also playing with BIGGER bullets... namely home cast ( not by me) 180 Keith style "Bone Breakers" using 13gr of LilGun. But those have a real thump to them, so I haven't shot that many.
I just picked up a pound of Hp38 to see how I like it. Can't tell a big difference between that and TiteGroup which what I started with. My buddy is busting my chops to try VV N350,, so as soon as I can find a can of that its next to try.
If you haven't looked at the EH shrouds, you should they can tame any load and the price is RIGHT.
Soap Box, Ballot Box, Ammo Box
in that order.
4 Monson Model 15's
1 Palmer FB 15
1 Rossi 357 Model 92 (lever)
1 CZ 75B
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January 24, 2009
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bigjayk47z said:
what do I do? send it to DW?
Yes, that would probably be best, unless you have a good smith in your area who is familiar with DW's. I have a gun that is starting to do the same thing & DW is where I plan on sending it for it's fix.
aboard & thanks for sharing the
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