Congratulations, models 11 and 12 were the very first Dan Wesson revolvers. Basically, the 14 and 15 are identical except for the interior barrel nut. The unofficial 14-1 and 15-1 are a little different. The latter have different front and rear sights and an easier to work latch.

  There are some things you should know. They are not S&Ws. The lockwork is MIM and not case hardened like a Smith. The hardened surface of hammer, trigger, strut and sear should never be filed. The most you should do is polish lightly where you see the rubbing on the sideplate, frame and lockwork. Do not polish smooth. Also before or at serial number 10,000 the piano wire hand spring was changed to fit in a slot on the back of the hand. Before that, the handspring was wrapped around the hand and rubbed against the sideplate leading to failure. You should look on eBay for a newer hand and the right hand spring. Most used hands will time just right

When ejecting spent cases do not allow the cylinder to close while the ejector rod is extended or you will put terrible scratches on the sideplate and/or gouges on the back of the recoil shield. Smiths have the cylinder latch there to protect against the sharp star. Hold the gun in your left hand, tilted to the left with your index and middle finger pushing against the cylinder through the frame window. 

  11,12,14,and 15 have the short hammer fall. One of the fastest hammer of any revolver. Later Dans are fast but not as fast. I recommend the Wolfe trigger return spring to smooth out the DA. 

  Lastly be aware of Dan Wesson Acquisition Syndrome. The uncontrollable urge to acquire more DW Revolvers. The only cure is low funds.

  Any Holster that fits a Python will work just fine. I also love N frame Smiths. 

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