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February 10, 2014
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Glad to find a place to talk DW's. Seems I can find information on all kinds of revolvers except for ones like mine.
I'm from the Northern VA area (just outside of DC), and am a member of the Peacemaker National Training Center in WVA. Enough about me, more about gun.
I bought a 6" stainless .44 Mag back in May, sight unseen other than pictures. Turned out to be very clean, with no noticeable marks in the bore and not even cylinder burn marks (maybe cleaned too hard). I've ran about 300 rounds through it (150 box .44 mag, 100 box 44 special, and 50 of my own handloads), and love it to death. It wears Hogue rubber grips most of the time, but a set of Hogue Rosewood grips when it feels like showing off.
I'll probably be posting some questions later on in the week when I can take pictures with a nice camera and take measurements, related to cylinder rubbing the forcing cone, endshake, and maybe a slightly bent ejector rod (not quite sure yet), but first I've got to dig through threads to see if there are answers already.
Thanks for reading.
Dans Club
March 2, 2008
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Welcome to DWF, cylinder rubbing on forcing cone is surely a barrel/cylinder gap issue. Always check the gap on all six chambers, and set your gap on the tightest one. You can normally go .002-.003 on the tightest one, but a very heavy shooting session in a .44 Mag could still shrink that gap once everything gets really heated up.
I went to a bookstore and asked the saleswoman "Were is the Self Help Section?" She said if she told me, it would defeat the purpose.
George Carlin
February 10, 2014
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Steve CT said
Welcome to DWF, cylinder rubbing on forcing cone is surely a barrel/cylinder gap issue. Always check the gap on all six chambers, and set your gap on the tightest one. You can normally go .002-.003 on the tightest one, but a very heavy shooting session in a .44 Mag could still shrink that gap once everything gets really heated up.
Thanks for the reply. Only issue I have is that there seems to be a few thousandths play between the crane and cylinder, and cylinder and frame. When the cylinder is locked, I can pull back on the cylinder until the cylinder star is seated on the frame, and it seems there is a nice couple thousandths gap between forcing cone and cylinder as I would expect. When I let go, that gap closes until the cylinder is rubbing the forcing cone, and it seems the cylinder/crane gap is almost (but not quite) closed.
That makes me worry that if I set the cylinder gap to what the ball/spring want to push the cylinder to, instead of shimming the crane/cylinder, that the cylinder will be hammering away when firing and I'll just be making things worse.
Also, the ejector rod has a very tiny amount of wobble and when the cylinder is sitting on the forcing cone, there might be 1/4 degree of angle between the top of the cylinder and bottom, but that might be normal.
January 20, 2014
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RKP (Rich)
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Dans Club
March 25, 2013
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Welcome to the forum! I would set the gape on the proudest(tightest ) cylinder like Steve says. If it spits powder or lead with a .002 gape then you may need a new ball and/or spring. If it still rubs , increase the gap. The factory recomends .006 but that is more than most of us use on the .44. The normal use of a hunting revolver is not cylinder after cylinder unless you are hunting bison herds that stretch to the horizon. Reset the gap if it starts to bind. The problem could be a bent crane. If you unscrew the ejector rod and roll it on a flat surface you can check if it is bent(like a piol cue). If it is straight it may be your crane thats bent and also causing your gap problem.
December 4, 2012
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,
Sounds like Steve and Old Dog have pointed you in the right direction. After your second reply, I thought of the ball and spring being the possible culprit. It seems to me I have read some wear here about this being a problem w/another member. Being careful not to get a false gap reading do to the ball. I'll see If I can find it, however I'm sure someone will beat me to it.
Anyways your in good hands, these guys are very helpful.
Again,to
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January 24, 2009
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October 11, 2009
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Dans Club
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April 20, 2010
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Welcome to the forum, and I will add one thing- I am not sure if I understand you correctly, but are you pushing the cylinder back compressing the ball spring when you are measuring for the gap between cylinder and barrel?
The gap must be measured and set with the cylinder in its normal position, do not push back on the cylinder at all when working with the barrel/cylinder gap setting process.
The small amount of travel that you can push the cylinder back against the ball, compressing the spring is normal. As long as the revolver is functioning and firing well, just set the barrel/cylinder gap properly and run it.
I apologize if I was not reading you right, but just wanted to make sure.
Lonwolf
"The lion and the tiger may be more powerful, but the Wolf does not perform in the circus"
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