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January 30, 2017
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Hey everybody. I just picked up my first revolver a few days ago, a used Model 15-2 6". My pistol, unfortunately came with nothing, not even a case! According to the serial (332xxx) it was made in the early 80s - between 82-84. The bluing is in very good condition with most of the wear being on the top of the front sight, around the muzzle towards the bottom of the shroud, the very front edges of the cylinder and the fluting, and a line around the entire cylinder next to each locking notch. The grips appear to be original and well-wornI have not been able to shoot it yet because I'm in the middle of a cross-country move.
I checked it over in the shop before I bought it, and it seemed ok, but once I brought it home, I noticed a couple of issues that worry me. I don't know if these are because the pistol is older and just needs cleaned and a tuneup maybe, or if they are indicative of other problems.
First problem: It's somewhat difficult to unlatch and swing out the cylinder. I've handled a few other revolvers (a Taurus, a few Colts including a Python, and a couple Rugers) and they all seem to unlatch and swing out under gravity - I have to push the cylinder out with my fingers.
Second issue: The ejector rod sticks when you press it, but will snap back if you rotate the cylinder a little. Sometimes it's fine and will snap back immediately. Could be bent very slighty, but the cylinder seems to spin true to my eye.
Third issue: The cylinder seems to stick out past the shield a little farther on the right than on the left.
Should I have a smith look at the gun, or should I just clean it, oil it and shoot it?
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Dans Club
February 22, 2009
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Welcome to the DWF! Sounds like some old oil has turned to tack and is causing you some issues. I recommend a thorough cleaning to include disassembly of the cylinder. Regards, Ron
Technically, the glass is always full; half liquid, half air....
January 30, 2017
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I did some googling around as well as checking a few posts here, and I think the revolver is out of time. If I cock it slowly, the cylinder doesn't line up perfectly and has to be manually rotated into lockup. But, if I cock it fast it will fully lock up and line up 100%.
I think I will have a smith look at it before I shoot it for the first time.
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Dans Club
February 22, 2009
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I would still take it apart and clean it before sending to any gunsmith. They're very easy to work on and the members here will help with about anything you can think of. It still sounds like a good cleaning is in order- if it were out of time, it wouldn't line up regardless the speed you work the action.
Technically, the glass is always full; half liquid, half air....
January 30, 2017
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Here is a (very large) picture I took of the revolver. I'm holding it straight up in the air and the hammer is back with the cylinder in full lock. The back end of the cylinder wobbles but the front does not.
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Range Officers
May 2, 2009
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it's not a timing issue-- the hand is slightly worn. Just clean it and go shoot it-- a simple cleaning goes a long way in fixing revolver issues.
SHOOT
Dans Club
December 5, 2008
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The cylinder release/swingout procedure is very different with DWs. You are not the first one to think something was wrong because it was hard to get the cylinder to swing out. 
I finally realized that there is a right way to do it, just like there is a right way to dig a ditch.
Briefly - Using your left hand, put your thumb on the cylinder release latch and at the same time put 2 or 3 of your fingers on the right side of the cylinder. Now, at the same time you are pulling the latch down with your thumb, you will push against the cylinder with your fingers. It will only take a couple of tries for you to get this action down pat. Then it will be smooth and easy to open the cylinder. A good by-product of the process is that it keeps you from "flipping" the cylinder open, like in the movies. That flipping action can damage the crane and shorten the life of your revolver. Another even better by-product is that you maintain positive control of the cylinder and by holding it out away from the frame, you avoid the scourge of the sideplate scratches that are so common on DWs. These scratches are caused by letting the cylinder fall back toward the frame while the extractor star is pushed out to remove spent cartridge brass. Don't let this happen to you.
Now - Clean, shoot, enjoy!
August 29, 2009
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raduque said
I did some googling around as well as checking a few posts here, and I think the revolver is out of time. If I cock it slowly, the cylinder doesn't line up perfectly and has to be manually rotated into lockup. But, if I cock it fast it will fully lock up and line up 100%.
I'm going to open this up for whatever debate may ensue, but what raduque is describing here is a timing issue. Setting aside a needed cleaning which we all know can do wonders for the mechanisms, when the cylinder does not lock up in slow single action hammer pull, it's out of time whether it be from a worn hand, extractor or both. If you cock the hammer fast and with force, the momentum of the cylinder will lock it up even when the gun is out of time. If the cylinder is off-center as what appears in the photo, I'd be looking at a bent crane.
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