June 3, 2021
Hello,
I'm glad to have found the forum. I've always wanted a Monson-made Dan Wesson because I have family connections to the town and spent a lot of my childhood there. So I finally got around to buying one this week. I got it for sentimental reasons. I'm not a collector, just a shooter, so I didn't care whether it was correct, or perfect. But it does look like it's in really beautiful shape. Hardly looks fired. The turn line is visible, but faint.
Underneath the crane, the frame is marked 'mod 15' and the serial number is 20***. Based on the serial number pdf on this site, I am guessing that's '71. Does that sound right?
The barrel shroud is marked .38 special, and the cylinder will not accept 357 cartridges. I had guessed that it was a 357 frame with a mis-matched barrel, but the gun is definitely chambered in 38 special. Or else I'm missing something. My studies here at the forum seemed to suggest that the model 15 was only chambered in 357, so I don't know if I'm giving you new information here, or if I'm just completely misunderstanding my new gun. I don't have the capability of posting pictures at this point, unfortunately.
Of course, I can't find any 38 special ammo anywhere at a reasonable price. I was able to test fire the gun with some old defensive ammo I happened to have on hand, but I only fired one cylinder. It works! I had a few Hornady and a few Federal, and fired all double action. No difficulties with igniting the primers. I was surprised by how short the double action trigger seemed. And although I don't see a need to fire in single action, the single action trigger on this revolver is almost certainly the best single action trigger I've ever felt. Not that I've felt that many, honestly. Revolver locked up nice and tight. I'm not an expert, but it felt nearly perfect to me.
The old splinter-type grips are terrible for shooting, of course. I've got Hogues on the way from Midway, but would really like to find some Presentation grips. I hate finger grooves, and will grind them off the Hogue when it gets here.
It is very interesting to try to get the feel for the cylinder latch. The little detent ball at the rear of the frame has a robust spring, and it takes much more effort to open the cylinder than I'm used to, from shooting a Smith 642. But I think once I get used to it, I am going to prefer the DW cylinder latch to the Smith style. Or, at least, I'll like it equally.
I'm hoping to dry practice with the revolver as much as I can over the summer and then, if I can ever find any ammo, maybe take it to the local outlaw IDPA club and shoot some matches with it. There's often no revolver shooters there, so I might win some matches the easy way! 🙂 OK, well, long intro post. Thanks, and hope to talk to you all more.
You certainly seem to have knowledge enough. Dan Wessons are the thinking man's gun. It is necessary to have the intelligence to set the barrel cylinder gap correctly to have the gun work correctly. It is not like the dumb folks Smiths, point and pull the trigger.
If you don't have a barrel tool you will need one. EWK sells an excellent aftermarket tool. I prefer the all steel factory model with the cross bar Allen wrenches. The flat steel tool with the 5 sided insert or the same tool but 12 sided with insert is the one that came with the gun. Avoid the plastic tool. They break with age.
A 38 Special porkchop is actually a model 9 I believe. They were made for police departments. Same gun. If you find a 357 cylinder on eBay you can shoot that too. I love porkchops for 3 reasons. When you take the shroud off the cylinder slides off for easy cleaning. The models 11,12, 14 and 15 have the shortest hammer throw of any revolver. The later model also called 15 but known as a 15-1 has a longer hammer throw. The difference is the little ledge on the trigger that the trigger return spring sits on on the 15-1. Yours, the 15, does not have that ledge. The 14-1 has the rear sight cut in the frame and the 15-1 has a smaller, High Standard rear sight. Yours has the high, original rear sight. I set of Wolff reduced power springs will make your gun even slicker. Use the 8 lb mainspring. The Wolff trigger spring makes a huge difference.
Lastly I think that the porkchops are more accurate than the later 15-2. No proof, just opinion.
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Dans Club
February 22, 2009
Welcome to the DWF! Sounds like you might have a model 8-2, if it has adjustable sights it's a 9-2; if it's a porkchop then a model 8 or 9 depending on sights. Or (not likely but possible) It could be a model 14 or 15 that has a .38 shroud and has shot so many .38 SPC that there is a carbon ring that won't allow chambering of a .357 mag (told you it was a reach). Anyway, pictures, when you're able, are a plus.
Technically, the glass is always full; half liquid, half air....
June 3, 2021
Thank you, folks! So can I check if I'm understanding right about the model #? What I think you all are telling me is that if it's actually a 38 special rather than a 357, it uses a model 15 frame but the gun is called a model 8 or 9? Is that right?
About the cylinder: I did wonder whether it was a carbon ring keeping the 357 cartridges from fully seating, but as best I can tell that is not the deal. The measurement of the exterior length of the cylinder is 1.64 inches, which is longer than the cylinder on my 642.
I will be looking into the Wolff spring kit. The double action trigger is short but it's surprisingly heavy. I will take the revolver apart and clean it up a bit, but I think some good springs might be a good thing! Thanks again for the welcome and the knowledge!
You are absolutely correct. Identical to the 357 but the cylinder is reamed for 38 Special. The cartridge has a rim but it heads spaces on case edge. You can have it reamed out to accommodate 357 or you could find a cylinder assembly in 357.and you could swap it out when you want to shoot 357. I have several extra porkchop cylinder assemblies or just cylinders if you can't find one.
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