July 27, 2023
Good morning. I inherited this firearm from my father who since passed away in 2013; due to Agent Orange related cancer from his service in the U.S. NAVY. Can anyone please tell me the manufacture date, type of model, grip type, etc. All I know is that the barrel is Ventilated & 4 inches, stamped "MONSON, MASS. U.S.A." with SERIAL# 274065, .357 magnum. Thanks in advance!
Semper Fidelis,
Michael Salinas
GySgt USMC (Ret.)
It is a model 15 -2 4V. The 4V describes the length and style of the barrel. The grip is called a service grip. The barrel lengths can be changed in 2 minutes with a barrel tool and they were offered in lengths of 21/2 , 4,6 8, 10, 12 and 15 inches. The grips are on a grip tang instead of a grip frame and there are many styles and sizes to choose from or carve your own. They are removed by an allen screw on the bottom.
You will need a barrel tool to set the barrel cylinder gap. Read the forum for everything you need to know. Your gun was made in late 1979 or early 1980.
July 27, 2023
Ole Dog said
It is a model 15 -2 4V. The 4V describes the length and style of the barrel. The grip is called a service grip. The barrel lengths can be changed in 2 minutes with a barrel tool and they were offered in lengths of 21/2 , 4,6 8, 10, 12 and 15 inches. The grips are on a grip tang instead of a grip frame and there are many styles and sizes to choose from or carve your own. They are removed by an allen screw on the bottom.You will need a barrel tool to set the barrel cylinder gap. Read the forum for everything you need to know. Your gun was made in late 1979 or early 1980.
Awesome! Thank you so much Ole Dog, much appreciated!!
July 27, 2023
salinas3043 said
Ole Dog said
It is a model 15 -2 4V. The 4V describes the length and style of the barrel. The grip is called a service grip. The barrel lengths can be changed in 2 minutes with a barrel tool and they were offered in lengths of 21/2 , 4,6 8, 10, 12 and 15 inches. The grips are on a grip tang instead of a grip frame and there are many styles and sizes to choose from or carve your own. They are removed by an allen screw on the bottom.
You will need a barrel tool to set the barrel cylinder gap. Read the forum for everything you need to know. Your gun was made in late 1979 or early 1980.
Awesome! Thank you so much Ole Dog, much appreciated!!
What barrel/gap tool would you recommend? Looking at this one on ebay, (US $69.75). I think this was last fired in the 80s and stored until inherited 7/26/23.
That is an EWK aftermarket tool. They are well made and have different size inserts for several small frame calibers. I would contact EWK, the have an add somewhere on the forum or you can Google him. I am sure it is cheaper if they have any.
There are 4 types of factory tools. There is the original flat 12 sided wrench with 3 sizes of Allen screws. They added a 5 sided insert when the 12 sided exterior barrel nut became the interior nut. The 12 sided nut could be removed with a socket wrench. Many folk pan the original tool because if you weren't careful it could slip. I bought bunches of them when no one wanted them. One of the best moves I ever made. Then came the plastic one piece tool with the 3 allen screws incorporated in the design. The metal insert is inside the plastic. The barrel nut should never be over tightened. Over tightening would cause the insert to come loose from the degrading plastic. Unless you need one for an original pack you should avoid them. Around 1980 DW went to the all steel tool with the crossbar and 3 allen wrenches. They are my favorite. The EWK is nice because you only need one for the small frame guns and one for the large frame guns instead of one for each caliber. In 2002 Norwich debuted the doorknob tool. As nice as they are the sell for 200 plus on eBay and have no attached allen wrenches. They have become a collectable of their own.
The reason your gun probably sat in a drawer for 40 years is because they are the "Thinking Man's Revolver". A title I have coined for Dan Wessons. Colts, Smiths and others you point, pull the trigger and shoot. No thinking involved. If you want one of the most accurate, durable, inovative revolvers ever made you need to learn how to set the barrel cylinder gap properly, eject cases without letting the cylinder close and scratch the sideplate, and disassemble the gun to fix most problems. They are modular guns with basically drop in parts. The pawn shops of the country are filled with worn out and shot out Smiths and Colts but it takes 2 minutes to replace the barrel of a Dan and even less time to change grips to one the fits your hands and needs. Remember, NEVER over tighten the barrel nut, sideplate screws and most of all, the grip screw. Over tightening the grip screw will prevent the hammer from staying back in SA and result in light strikes in DA. Read "The Average Joe Tuneup in Gunsmithing.
You should also know that Dan Wessons are addictive. They become an obsession called Dan Wesson Acquisition Syndrome. DWAS for short. In it's worst manifestation it can lead to RAS, Revolver Acquisition Syndrome, or Firearms Acquisition Syndrome. It won't impoverish you like a gambling addiction because the guns are a store of value and usually at least keep pace with inflation, but your significant other may get unhappy. 😳🙄Buying them a present every time you buy a gun can help in that regard. 😏
July 27, 2023
Ole Dog said
That is an EWK aftermarket tool. They are well made and have different size inserts for several small frame calibers. I would contact EWK, the have an add somewhere on the forum or you can Google him. I am sure it is cheaper if they have any.There are 4 types of factory tools. There is the original flat 12 sided wrench with 3 sizes of Allen screws. They added a 5 sided insert when the 12 sided exterior barrel nut became the interior nut. The 12 sided nut could be removed with a socket wrench. Many folk pan the original tool because if you weren't careful it could slip. I bought bunches of them when no one wanted them. One of the best moves I ever made. Then came the plastic one piece tool with the 3 allen screws incorporated in the design. The metal insert is inside the plastic. The barrel nut should never be over tightened. Over tightening would cause the insert to come loose from the degrading plastic. Unless you need one for an original pack you should avoid them. Around 1980 DW went to the all steel tool with the crossbar and 3 allen wrenches. They are my favorite. The EWK is nice because you only need one for the small frame guns and one for the large frame guns instead of one for each caliber. In 2002 Norwich debuted the doorknob tool. As nice as they are the sell for 200 plus on eBay and have no attached allen wrenches. They have become a collectable of their own.
The reason your gun probably sat in a drawer for 40 years is because they are the "Thinking Man's Revolver". A title I have coined for Dan Wessons. Colts, Smiths and others you point, pull the trigger and shoot. No thinking involved. If you want one of the most accurate, durable, inovative revolvers ever made you need to learn how to set the barrel cylinder gap properly, eject cases without letting the cylinder close and scratch the sideplate, and disassemble the gun to fix most problems. They are modular guns with basically drop in parts. The pawn shops of the country are filled with worn out and shot out Smiths and Colts but it takes 2 minutes to replace the barrel of a Dan and even less time to change grips to one the fits your hands and needs. Remember, NEVER over tighten the barrel nut, sideplate screws and most of all, the grip screw. Over tightening the grip screw will prevent the hammer from staying back in SA and result in light strikes in DA. Read "The Average Joe Tuneup in Gunsmithing.
You should also know that Dan Wessons are addictive. They become an obsession called Dan Wesson Acquisition Syndrome. DWAS for short. In it's worst manifestation it can lead to RAS, Revolver Acquisition Syndrome, or Firearms Acquisition Syndrome. It won't impoverish you like a gambling addiction because the guns are a store of value and usually at least keep pace with inflation, but your significant other may get unhappy. 😳🙄Buying them a present every time you buy a gun can help in that regard. 😏
Ole Dog, I cannot thank you enough for this valuable wealth of knowledge. Thanks for helping out this noob, much appreciated!! Just placed an order for the EWK aftermarket tool. I hear nothing but good things about you on this forum. Newbie as I am on Dan Wesson Arms (this is my only DWA revolver); I will take your words of wisdom as Gospel. After reading your message I don't know if I want to shoot this and just store it in the safe for another 40 years (I'm 52), haha. You are SPOT ON in your last sentence!!! Take care Ole Dog and keep doing what you're doing - spreading that wealth of information!
-Mike
Your just a young fellow Mike. Go ahead and shoot it to your hearts content. Just keep your fingers through the frame pushing the cylinder open as you eject cases or the sideplate will get scratched up. And then buy more unfired or nearly perfect guns to put in the safe. Or vice versa. Store that one and buy more shooters.
July 27, 2023
Ole Dog said
Your just a young fellow Mike. Go ahead and shoot it to your hearts content. Just keep your fingers through the frame pushing the cylinder open as you eject cases or the sideplate will get scratched up. And then buy more unfired or nearly perfect guns to put in the safe. Or vice versa. Store that one and buy more shooters.
Thank you.
This is a precious gun, keep it in your collection
I often make some gun parts, gun metal parts usually have some special properties, so they are usually made of special alloys, the manufacturing cycle of gun parts is very long, which is mainly limited by the level of craftsmanship, gun parts need to be precision machined and surface treated, some parts are made by MIM process to ensure their accuracy and reliability.
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