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February 17, 2017
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I went yesterday and fired the Model 15 and Model 22 I just acquired.
I think it has been some time since either firearm has been shot. As such I ran an oiled patch through both cylinders and bores. I probably should have broken them down for a complete clean and lube. Looking at YouTube that appears to be a tad daunting, and nothing that should be undertaken the first time when you have limited time.
The Model 22 ran 100 rounds through it successfully. No FTFs or squibs. It was generally on target, only limited by my ability. It was stiff. The extractor was stiff to work. The cylinder needed a little push to move out for emptying and reloading. Again, I believe a good clean and lube will fix that.
The Model 15 was a little smoother to operate. The cylinder did not spin as freely as you might expect. I ran 50 158 gr .38 semi wadcutters from Georgia Arms through the firearm. 50 130 gr PPU FMJ .38s, and finally 25 Perfecta FMJ .357 rounds.
I had some initial failures to fire on both the .38s and .357s. They all went on the second strike. The gun seemed to shoot high, so on the next range visit I will be prepared to adjust the sights. Also it appears the head spacing was a little bigger than spec, as the flame out of the cylinder/forcing cone area was spectacular. That plus I experienced a little dirt from it. Since the gun has a changeable barrel, that was my fault, as I should have checked the spacing. The revolver did have a great trigger.
I am looking forward to spending some quality time with the firearms this week, and getting them out again next week. I expect a great improvement in their performance.
I attribute this to my general excitement to get them out.
February 16, 2016
Online
If you really do have a Model 15, you may have a short hammer throw model causing the light strikes, which is why the factory increased the distance, to give it more umpha.
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Dans Club
March 25, 2013
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If you have a 15-2 you would not have the short hammer throw. I suspect a good cleaning and lube will solve the problem. It may be that a Wolff reduced power mainspring was installed but probably it is just in need of fresh lube and cleaning. The "Average Joe Tuneup" is surprisingly easy. The gun was designed to not need a gunsmith for barrel change, grip change or spring replacement. Any problems you encounter can be handled by the forum members. I seem to recall the guns are almost like new.
I live very close by. A little over an hours drive. If you want help it is yours for the asking.
February 17, 2017
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Ole Dog said
If you have a 15-2 you would not have the short hammer throw. I suspect a good cleaning and lube will solve the problem. It may be that a Wolff reduced power mainspring was installed but probably it is just in need of fresh lube and cleaning. The "Average Joe Tuneup" is surprisingly easy. The gun was designed to not need a gunsmith for barrel change, grip change or spring replacement. Any problems you encounter can be handled by the forum members. I seem to recall the guns are almost like new.I live very close by. A little over an hours drive. If you want help it is yours for the asking.
The guns are like new, with I believe very few rounds down the barrel. My precautions of a wet patch were obviously not enough before I shot it. The barrel shroud was at least snug before I shot the 15, but probably not snug enough. Easily cured.
I took the side plate off yesterday. Does anything besides the trigger mechanism need lubrication?
I expect to spend some quality time with both this weekend. Thanks for the help offer. I may take you up on it.
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Dans Club
March 25, 2013
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Most Dan Wessons have seen little use for decades and either have dried lubricant or a fine, non apparent patina of oxidation on the inside frame and lockwork. I like to polish all the parts with Flitz and oil liberally. Too much oil though can actually increase resistance. After cleaning I spray a little Rem oil on all the frame pins holding the lockwork in position. The by spray seems to be enough to lubricate everywhere. Dry the excess oil off the ledge where the trigger return spring rests against the trigger. I use spray Rem oil for convience. Dextron automatic transmission fluid works great too. I put a little grease on the extractor rod and cylinder assembly bushings. This is just my method. Other folks will have their own methods. If I am feeling lazy I will just pump some Dextron into the frame and let it drain. Eventually though I disassemble and polish. The outside I lightly rub with Flitz to remove any surface oxidation that is not visible. If the blueing and polish is mirror like I will just rub it down with oil. This use of Flitz on the finish is for me a one time thing on a gun that may have been unattended for 30 to 40 years.
You must set the barrel gap correctly or you will get powder blown through the gap. It should be set at . 006 on the smallest gap of the six chambers (proudest). I usually use . 004 if the cylinder face is perpendicular but take the barrel tool with you when you go shooting. If you use . 004,wipe the face of the cylinder with a cloth every several cylinder worth of rounds. The EWK tool has barrel inserts for both calibers. Do not use the 22 insert in the 15-2 as a general rule. You are risking buggering the nut. Do not over tighten the barrel nut. Snug is good. If the grip screw is too tight the hammer will not stay back in SA and you may have light strikes in DA.
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