January 13, 2012
Sound like a compelling topic? I need help from all you knowledgable DW folks. I'm a newbie to DW, to this Forum, and just got my first 15-2 Pistol Pac. I'm thrilled with it. So thrilled that, while I was in the wait period to take possession of it, I found a couple of grips that I thought would be cool to add, including the small, rounded grips for concealed carry (called, I guess, CCW).
When I finally got the piece, my son and I went to the range to shoot it and, wow, what a ride. Beautiful shooter. We changed out barrels, and put the 2" on, at which point, my son thought he'd remove the Pachmayr grips and put the CCW grips on, just to complete the picture. Using the standard cap screw for the regular grips, he threaded it through the CCW grips into the tang of the weapon, then continued to turn it in with the allen wrench tool. He stopped when it didn't seem like the CCW grips were firming up, at which point, we took the grip off and reinstalled the Pachmayr grips.
Although my new revolver was functioning beautifully before we installed and removed this CCW grip, now it won't cock! The hammer can be drawn back about half-way, and the cylinder will rotate, but the gun won't cock. Looking at the bottom of the tang, there is a threaded insert that appears to have been screwed further into the tang, which I assume is impinging the hammer's ability to cock, but I'm not a good enough gunsmith to really suss this issue.
So that's my problem. I'm hoping someone here with many years' experience with The Dan (especially Model 15-2) can give me some good guidance on how to proceed. (I suppose I could take it to a smith, but that seems too obvious!).
Also, as a newbie, I'm enjoying this forum greatly!
Thanks for any help or insights!
May 17, 2010
i am not sure I was able to foloow the last bit. On a Dan wesson, if the grip screw is screwed in too far it will prevent the gun from cocking. So step one is to make sure the still functions correctly:
Remove the grip screw
Remove the grip
Cock the gun
If that works then the gun is fine, and its matter of learning the art of installing the grip. For the next step if you have a wooden grip uses that.
Slide the grip on
Insert the grip screw
Turn the grip screw and check for wiggle in the grip. The grip only needs to be tight enough to prevent the grip from wiggling.
Check the function of the gun.
Now if your still good. Look at the Pach grip. There is a metal plate in there that can be bent by over tighting the grip screw. If it does not appear bent, there retry with the Pach grip, remembering to only screw in until the grip is secure.. not tight.
Smaller grips geneally ship with shorter grip screws. The shorter screw should be used with these grips. I was able to go to a local Ace hardware store and find an infinate variety of screws to use as grip screws. Inlcuding hex screws ( like the original) in both Stainless and iron oxide, plus regular phillips screws, in stainless and not.
So how about some pictures??
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in that order.
4 Monson Model 15's
1 Palmer FB 15
1 Rossi 357 Model 92 (lever)
1 CZ 75B
January 13, 2012
Hi, there, Pine and thanks. I've seen some of your other posts and you know your stuff!
I've tried to cock the gun without the grips or grip screw in place and it won't cock. What I tried to describe in the original post is this: in the tang, there is a threaded insert that screws into the tang. That insert itself also has a threaded opening which receives the cap screw when installing a set of grips. It appears to me that the insert got screwed down further into the tang while we were trying to install the CC grips, and the fact that it is deeper in the tang seems to be what is preventing the weapon from cocking. Does that make sense?
I'll take some pics of what I'm trying to describe at home tonight and post. In the meantime, I've attached a couple of photos of my new piece!
Thanks again,
January 13, 2012
Follow-up... I checked the schematic diagram of the 15-2 on the Forum. The part I've been describing as a threaded insert is the MAIN SPRING SEAT, which screws up into the tang. It appears that, using the longer-than-necessary cap screw for my Pachmayr grips to install the DW CCW grips caused the main spring seat to get threaded further into the tang and to impinge on the gun's ability to cock.
So, the question seems to be, how do I back the main spring seat far enough out of the tang so the gun can cock again?
Thanks,
JA
Supporter
Range Officer
Range Officers
May 2, 2009
Greetings-- Every 15-2 I've owned had the mainspring seat tack welded or peened into place. I'll bet yours is the same. Highly doubt it is in too deep if these measures are intact.
Revove your grip and screw, and try cocking the gun with the cylinder open. Then let us know the results and we will go from there.
SHOOT
DWF Supporters
Dans Club
Moderators
November 17, 2008
I have had the main spring seat back out before so it stands to reason it could migrate in also. I would assume you might be able to look at it and see where it used to be. Or maybe just (if it is loose) back it off a little and see. If you can't grab the end of the seat go to the hardware store and get a 8/32 screw and nut to thread in and jam nut it and back it out. It should be obviously loose if it migrated in on you. Once you find the correct position a little loctite should fix the issue. Make sure your grip screws have clean threads and arn't cross threaded as that may have been the cause. Or I could just be out in left field. Good luck.
LB
Wisdom is merely the realization of how little one knows, therefore I am wise.
January 13, 2012
Thanks, Shootist and LB, I appreciate the insights and experience. I'll give those ideas a try this evening and see where it leads. I managed to take a photo of the tang showing the spring seat recessed into the tang housing. It's in there a good 1/2 inch. Is that how it's supposed to look? (BTW, the concealed carry grip is also visible in lower R of photo...)
Dans Club
March 2, 2008
Here's the best photo I can easily find of how that insert should look in the tang.
http://www.nwfriders.com/images/photoalbum/useralbum_152/pre1.jpg
If yours is actually recessed into the tang as I think your photo shows, about 1/2"as described, this has the potential to be a tough fix. If this is the case, I can see how it won't cock.
Maybe someone smarter than I (and Everyone fits that category) can offer suggestions, but this strikes me as a fairly challenging fix.
I went to a bookstore and asked the saleswoman "Were is the Self Help Section?" She said if she told me, it would defeat the purpose.
George Carlin
Supporter
Range Officer
Range Officers
May 2, 2009
January 1, 2012
If you can't get it from the grip end perhaps you can go in from the other end.
You can get a good idea how to get to it using Shoot's "Average Joe tuning" post that's pinned at the top of the gunsmithing section.
Perhaps you can then get an 8-32 bolt with a small head from the hardware store, thread it into the top of the mainspring seat and screw the mainspring seat out when the bolt bottoms out.
Just a thort!
"My mama said, you and Elvis are pretty good, but you're no Chuck Berry" Jerry Lee Lewis.
January 13, 2012
Thanks to all, gents, much appreciated! The support and the collective wisdom is great on this site. I'll continue to ponder -- maybe thread the cap screw in with a small nut on it, with a dab of lock-tite or gorilla glue until it seats against the main spring seat. Let it set up... then back 'er out, and Bob' yer uncle. Sounds easy, right? Nigel, the picture you posted is worth $$. That really shows the setup that I need to re-set on my piece.
And thanks for the compliment on my Pac -- my stoked to have it in my possession, and it'll go down the chain to my boys when the time is right.
November 23, 2011
Plan B. Take the grip screw and coat the end with finger nail polish. Screw the grip screw in a 1/4" and wait for the polish to dry. This should allow the seat to be backed out. The reason for the finger nail polish is it can be removed with finger nail polish remover (Acetone). R S
remembering Col. Jeff Cooper
Range Officer
Range Officers
Dans Club
March 27, 2009
May 17, 2010
Sounds like you have lots of good ideas for getting her backed out. I think taking the side plate off and releasing the tension is a good plan. I thin the real issue is goning to be keeping it in place once you do get it backed out. My vote is to have a smith give it an original style treatment.
Soap Box, Ballot Box, Ammo Box
in that order.
4 Monson Model 15's
1 Palmer FB 15
1 Rossi 357 Model 92 (lever)
1 CZ 75B
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