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January 13, 2012
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Gentlemen (and ladies, if any replied), my thanks for the great problem-solving thoughts and help! What a fun site and great resource.
I appreciate the wisdom in Rod Slinger's suggestion - fingernail polish as a more temporary approach to setting the cap screw in the main spring seat, with removal by polish remover. Great idea! I'll give it a try.
Hey, Pine, when you say, "have a smith give it an original style treatment." I'm not sure what you mean... is that to tack-weld or peen the main spring seat in place? LB had suggested using Locktite to secure it, once it got backed out to its proper location.
Anyway, I appreciate everyone's collective wisdom and the freely-given good advice. Thanks!
January 13, 2012
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Back in the saddle! I know you've all been waiting (hah!) but here's the solution to the mainspring seat problem I had, which was preventing my Model 15 from cocking.
I first tried the fingernail polish idea but it didn't set up strongly enough. So, I applied a drop of lock-tite to the grip screw, threaded it into the main spring seat and let it set up for about 1 hr. Then, using the allen wrench tool, I just backed the main spring seat out, no problem. Once I had the seat about 3/8" out of the tang, I grabbed it with a pair of pliers (gently, so as not to damage the threads), and broke the screw loose. I then cleaned everything up, put a drop of lock-tite around the threads of the seat and screwed it into the tang until it sat flush with the tang housing. I used the grip screw with an 8-32 nut threaded abou 1/4" up the shaft of the screw to seat the main spring seat in the tang. I let the lock-tite set up and we're good to go!
Here are before, during and after pictures.
First, a repeat showing the main spring seat recessed into the tang.
Second, the seat shown with ~3/8" out of tang.
Third, seat is set flush with tang housing and "lock-tited" in place.
Fourth, gun in working order, and Roscoe, World's Greatest Dog, doesn't care a bit.
Thanks again to everyone for the good ideas and support. Looking forward to another day at the range with this beauty... and per the advice, I'll keep The Hulk away from the grips!
February 11, 2010
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Great to hear ! Good job 
now if that was mine I would take
a chisel and peen on either side but the loctite will probably hold. Which
loctite did you use, blue, red or green ?
-Blacktop
January 13, 2012
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I used the blue stuff, which I understand can be broken loose without too much trouble, if necessary. Seemed like the best approach, since I don't anticipate any huge torquing forces (e.g., Hulk) to be reefing on my grip screws in the future (LOL).
May 17, 2010
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Congrats on getting it all in working order again! I use the blue on the ejector rod (sparingly). Its pretty easy to break free.
Soap Box, Ballot Box, Ammo Box
in that order.
4 Monson Model 15's
1 Palmer FB 15
1 Rossi 357 Model 92 (lever)
1 CZ 75B
January 13, 2012
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Maybe this should go in a different thread, but... you say you use the blue lock-tite sparingly on the ejector rod.
I noticed on the range, for the few rounds (50-100) that I put through my Model 15 before the main spring seat issue arose, that my ejector rod seems to work loose. I'd thread it back in and eventually, it would feel loose again.
Is that where you're using the blue stuff, to keep that thing snug and in place?
November 23, 2011
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Very glad that you got you gun up and running. I know it is a big relief. R S
January 13, 2012
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Rod Slinger said:
Very glad that you got you gun up and running. I know it is a big relief. R S
Man, you got that right! And my son felt badly, too, since he was the one who'd inadvertently created the problem. Thanks for thinking of the nail polish idea -- it was a good thought, but the stuff I used just didn't have enough strength to turn the seat out. We're all good now, though, and looking forward to my next shoot!
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