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August 20, 2019
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After researching & exhausting all other posted causes of light strikes I ordered and installed a cylinder shim from triggershims.com. This was an issue that would happen after a few cylinders and would get progressively worse the warmer the gun got. On my S&W Model 64 I installed an endshake bearing inside the yoke tube but apparently it's done differently on DWs. After installation shown here my B/C gap had increased from .006 to .008 -.009 so I expect better strikes on primers with the cylinder set back further. There's still enough headspace after the shim was in. I adjusted the B/C gap to .006 again. Anything wrong with this work I did? I wonder how long the shim will hold up to the hot gasses/blast. I'll get to the range soon to see if it eliminated light strikes. The sliver of silver between the cylinder and yoke is the new shim.
October 17, 2017
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Your installation of the shims is fine. If you set the gap at .006 on the proudest chamber you probably have more than you need on the others, so you could tighten that up a little by going with .003 on the proudest chamber. As far as the shim holding up; one thicker shim would be better than multiple thinner ones.
August 20, 2019
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Took it to the range yesterday to see if the light strike issue was eliminated with the installation of the shim. The first fifty all went bang but the second fifty had two light strikes. It's always after the gun warms up. The light strikes are visibly shallower than the others and may be the same offending chambers. I'll have to verify that. Now that the cylinder is set back more when I rotate the cylinder when open it spins freely until it gets to the position of the last FTF round and then rubs the cylinder stop(nub in sideplate). Maybe slightly bent yoke?
October 17, 2017
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I’ve been trying to wrap my brain around this for a few days now, stonebuster, but finding no correlation between light strikes and the gun heating up. Perhaps it’s coincidental. Have you checked the retaining screw for the detent ball spring lately? There is only so much clearance under the transfer bar, and if the screw backs out enough it can inhibit the transfer bar function. That’s a very rare occurrence, but it can happen. Hope this helps.
August 20, 2019
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That's a good thing to know whether it's part of the problem or not. I did take a look at it when I tore it down recently and it was about flush but did have a burr on the screw head. I'll take care of the burr next time I'm in there. Since the .003 shim I put in helped reduce the number of light strikes I was getting I added another .002 shim to the .003 giving me a total .005. Very nice to be able to reset the B/C gap after shimming! I went to the range yesterday to try it out and I fired 150 rounds without a light strike. 100 were Remington UMC factory 130 grain FMJ 38spl and fifty were my reloads 158gr Xtreme RNFP over 6.2 grains HS-6 using Servicio & Adventuras (Argentine SPP). Before shimming I would sometimes have two or more light strikes per cylinder. The primer indentations were visibly more shallow on the light strikes but now all look good. I've already checked all the other common causes for the light strikes I've researched here. As always many thanks for the help with this and my other issues with this particular gun. Very pleased with the range trip yesterday after having this lingering problem possibly cured. I'd have been lost without the help I've gotten from the fine people on this forum.
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