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March 13, 2016
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Many years back, I purchased the .357 pistol pack (s/n 200317). On the hammer side of the cylinder, in the middle, there's a ring or bushing that appears to be held in place by a very tiny pin. Or, at least it should be. When I press the cartridge ejector pin, this bushing comes out along with the cartridges. This bushing is what the spring inside the cylinder backs up against. Has anyone else run into this for their cylinder?
When the bushing comes out, the pin remains in place, so at least I know what I'm looking for and have a reference to stick the bushing back in. The pin appears to be hollow. I'm guessing that, when new, it's ever-so-slightly too large so that you must squeeze it gently as you insert it so that it wedges correctly. Regardless, I need to get this pin replaced or I can't be confident that the cylinder will be held securely. I've looked at every site I can find, but this pin is not listed as a common part.
At this point, unless I can buy it, I'm thinking of going to a gunsmith here in New Orleans (anyone have a recommendation).
Discovered this 27 years ago and have not fired the gun since. Re-discovered the kit when I moved and now my frustration at not being able to safely use my gun is renewed.
Dans Club
December 5, 2008
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I had the same problem on a 22 Magnum cylinder. I could not see how to remove the pin. I considered using something like a small punch or awl to expand the pin. My solution was to Loctite the bushing with red Loctite. It is still holding, but I will admit I have not fired a whole lot of rounds since the fix.
If you can find a way to remove the existing pin. I may have a replacement. Let me know.
March 13, 2016
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Snake-eye, thank you. After doing some reading, Red Loctite 263 Primerless is a great idea. Even during normal servicing, there's no reason to ever remove this bushing. The trick will be applying it precisely to clean surfaces. Since the pin is still wedged in place in the cylinder bushing rim, I can just leave it there and this should work well. A project for next weekend.
If anyone has a better idea or cautionary comments before I do this, I'd appreciate reading them.
Dans Club
December 5, 2008
Online
You're right about cleaning the surfaces well - very important!
One addition: If you have a small c-clamp to hold the bushing in its seat as far as possible, it's a good idea. Unless it's fully seated, the ejector star will hold cartridges out and cause binding with the frame.
I accomplished the same thing by assembling the star with spring & ejector rod after applying the Loctite. It worked but I did have to disassemble later and do some cleanup of excess Loctite that was causing the star to stick.
Good luck!
March 13, 2016
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Using a clamp is a good idea. I planned on disassembling the gun regardless so that I can clean and oil. After all, it has been 27 years since the gun was used. Once the cylinder is out, I'm certain I can do a good job at Loctite application. Otherwise, I'd have to contend with the spring and ejector assembly, which might also become attached.
Dans Club
March 2, 2008
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Xandrosi said
Many years back, I purchased the .357 pistol pack (s/n 200317). On the hammer side of the cylinder, in the middle, there's a ring or bushing that appears to be held in place by a very tiny pin. Or, at least it should be. When I press the cartridge ejector pin, this bushing comes out along with the cartridges. This bushing is what the spring inside the cylinder backs up against. Has anyone else run into this for their cylinder?When the bushing comes out, the pin remains in place, so at least I know what I'm looking for and have a reference to stick the bushing back in. The pin appears to be hollow. I'm guessing that, when new, it's ever-so-slightly too large so that you must squeeze it gently as you insert it so that it wedges correctly. Regardless, I need to get this pin replaced or I can't be confident that the cylinder will be held securely. I've looked at every site I can find, but this pin is not listed as a common part.
At this point, unless I can buy it, I'm thinking of going to a gunsmith here in New Orleans (anyone have a recommendation).
Discovered this 27 years ago and have not fired the gun since. Re-discovered the kit when I moved and now my frustration at not being able to safely use my gun is renewed.
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March 13, 2016
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A quick update ...
After talking to a gunsmith through YouTube, what I need is an extremely small compression roll pin. It's not a normal part in most diagrams because most people never take the cylinder fully apart unless they have the gun timed, which is what I did back in 1988. His argument was that a mechanical joint would be more dependable than Loctite. He was also surprised that this bushing had a pin at all, suggesting that it should have been secured by first freezing the bushing so that as it expanded at room temperature, it locked in place.
Regardless, I took my gun to a local gunsmith in Gretna. The Loctite will still go to good use, just not on my gun.
Dans Club
December 5, 2008
Online
Sounds like a good solution. Let us know how he gets the existing pin out of the cylinder.
March 13, 2016
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Just got my gun back from the gunsmith. To achieve the mechanical joint, he inserted a pin into the middle of the existing expansion pin to re-expand it. Also, he epoxied the bushing in place. With everything apart, I had him clean and oil. All was in great condition. Very happy with how it came out. If I can get a good picture, I'll post it.
Dans Club
December 5, 2008
Online
That was a good idea! I will remember that.
March 22, 2016
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just as an FYI for others and future usage, I am a mechanical engineer, and have to design some intricate assemblies at times.. i find McMaster-Carr indispensable when needing wierd stuff, like roll pins and such...
http://www.mcmaster.com/#roll-pins/=11vba12
and..
http://www.mcmaster.com/#roll-pins/=11vbebb
also tools...
March 13, 2016
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Blues Man,
Great resource! Those are EXACTLY what would have been needed to replace the existing pin. I thought these were called expansion pins, not roll pins. No wonder I couldn't find it on the Internet. Do you need to expand these pins slightly before inserting them or is it bought that way so all that's necessary is to slip it in? Would you use jewelers needle-nose to remove the existing pin? That pin has to be the smallest part on the gun. Trying to figure out whether working with this extremely small pin would have been feasible without special tools. Thoughts?
Thanks ... Adam
March 22, 2016
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Xandrosi said
Blues Man,Great resource! Those are EXACTLY what would have been needed to replace the existing pin. I thought these were called expansion pins, not roll pins. No wonder I couldn't find it on the Internet. Do you need to expand these pins slightly before inserting them or is it bought that way so all that's necessary is to slip it in? Would you use jewelers needle-nose to remove the existing pin? That pin has to be the smallest part on the gun. Trying to figure out whether working with this extremely small pin would have been feasible without special tools. Thoughts?
Thanks ... Adam
removal on a blind hole application is a bit difficult, but carefully finding a correct diameter tool steel tap, and carefully, and I stress... Carefully working it inside the i.d. of the pin, and then CAREFULLY, pulling it out inline, to remove it is possible.. (it's a surgical thing relative to anything mechanical, and requires patience, and focus.)
the pins as sold, are based on the "DRILLED HOLE DIAMETER" and are slightly larger by nature, and designed as a light press fit, to roll up, or compress, and retain, in a specific drilled hole size, and they are all common sized (dimensionally ) drilled holes, that's why roll pins are chosen, and work.
March 13, 2016
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Good to know. Given the way the bushing is inset flush into the cylinder and the lack of documentation on the hole diameter in this rim, I'd have to use a cheap set of drill bits to find the right sized pin. What may have happened when I had the gun timed was that the original pin was replaced with one a tad too small. Or, the old one got compressed. Regardless, if I somehow CAREFULLY pulled the old pin as you suggested, I could not trust it to measure the replacement. Happier by the moment with the gunsmith's solution of pinning the roll pin to expand it.
March 22, 2016
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I'll have to go look, and do a quick measure, but as I doubt DW would use a metric pin, i's gonna be a fractional size, and off my head and mind's eye, a 3/32" (.094") is coming to mind., I'll let ya know tomorrow, to cold in the garage to pull my calipers out and play this game right now.
Supporter
Dans Club
March 25, 2013
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Snake-eye has those roll pins in our cache of parts. Plenty of them I think. And any other roll pins that are needed. Solid front sight pin, rear sight, and firing pin pin. Alas, I think most are blue. We also have the bushings. I have some 9 mm stainless cylinders that I have to assemble but I have to have a hole drilled for the roll pin. Or I can try the red loctite method. I would rather get a hole drilled. I don't have the equipment or skill to do it myself. Once I loctite it I can have it drilled and pinned I think. Thanks for all the info guys.
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