December 20, 2015
Hi all, I believe this is my first post. I joined the board in 2015, yeah I've been away from everything for a while. I purchased this revolver as a pistol pac in 1981 for $475 and have amassed and liquidated several collections but have always held onto this one. Its def a tack driver! Many years later I bought another thinking it would be a good parts gun if needed. At any rate when I fire my .357 the extractor star tends to jump allowing cases to get under it. I took it to a pistol smith. Ended up he's fantastic with pistols but not so with revolvers. He filed the imprinted star marks off of the frame, test fired it and had no issues. I go to the range and same thing star jumps back casings slip under. I had read somewhere that light loads might do that. The gun is immaculately clean so I know its not gunk between the cylinder and ejector. I replaced the rear bearing and spring and ended up tightening it down now it takes effort to open and close the cylinder. Any tips or tricks would be deeply appreciated.
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February 22, 2009
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December 5, 2008
It seems you are saying that with the cylinder closed and locked, the extractor can get between the cartridge and the frame. If so, it seems that would require a lot of excess endplay of the cylinder. That can be corrected by shims in front of the cylinder. This is a new one for me.
December 20, 2015
Right!! While shooting the empty cases get between the ejector star and the cylinder. I'll def check movement and shims for the front. Even though the gun was purchased in 1981 I would say that it might have 500 to 800 rounds through it, mostly light loads, but a few were pretty stiff loads. I don't like the idea of having the rear bearing so tight, the spring is undoubtedly compressed if nothing more than a spacer between the ball and allen screw.
Dans Club
December 5, 2008
October 17, 2017
This is a tricky one for sure.
Filing the star indentations off the frame should not have been done in my opinion, but as they say we can't put it back. Not your fault, my friend. Those indentations are present on every revolver that has been shot very much and are nothing to worry about. The cylinder is now traveling back that much more on recoil, and the ball could be protruding a tiny bit more, neither of which helps your situation I think. Also, I would definitely not put more spring tension on the detent ball as this does nothing but make the cylinder harder to open and close. Very curious that you said your spring retaining screw is an allen screw. I've never seen that before. They are a slotted screw head on all the DWs I've seen, but either way the head of the screw should end up just flush with the frame in most cases.
As to what is causing the cartridge cases to slip past the ejector star on recoil is beyond my understanding. I've had the ejector occasionally slip past a case when ejecting cases, but to my knowledge I've never had one slip by while still in the gun. Don't mean to doubt you, but are you certain this is happening during firing and not during ejection?
There are always minute differences in ammunition to consider also. Does this happen with all brands of ammo fired in the gun?
Good luck. Wish I could be more help.
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Dans Club
February 22, 2009
I can't understand how a cartridge, properly seated, can jump the extractor with the cylinder closed. Just not possible in my mind. I guess if the extractor has been whittled on????
I've had them jump but it was always with the cylinder open, while ejecting empties with the revolver pointed down.
Technically, the glass is always full; half liquid, half air....
December 20, 2015
Great suggestions. The screw holding the spring and detent ball are in front of the transfer bar in the frame. I never thought about during the ejection process. Could very well be. It happened twice but I don't shoot usually more than once or twice a year, (demanding job). Our range is closed until this mess is gone. I'm def going to need to examine every step as I run it. The bulk of my ammo are reloads. To be honest I'm not certain its ever had factory rounds. When I set the barrel gap there is slight friction, but not forced, and def not sloppy. Other than the very sm amount of filing the smith did, and a new ball and spring, the gun is as when purchased, I have to say that this revolver has always been my favorite. I should get a new spring because I'm almost certain the one in it is probably trashed.
I greatly appreciate the kind input and suggestions. If need be I'll send it back to the factory, but not without a very close study of whats going on first.
We will figure it out with you. They are lots of fun working on after you disassembly and tune up a dozen or so it gets real easy. BTW, I use a spare cleaning rod with no screw on tip to hold the hammer spring in place while the screwing in and out the long sideplate screw into the grip tang.
December 20, 2015
Finally got the revolver back, its been in storage for 12 yrs.. Its been so long I forgot some of the details. Back when the issue started occurring I "Did" turn the cylinder retention screw deeper into the frame giving a more positive latch. In fact to much! Yes the retention screw is a slot head and not an Allan. I'll submit a range report once I get out..
December 20, 2015
Made it out to shoot finally.. Did fairly good considering the time frame. No issues at all with ejection, or any empty ctgs. slipping under the ejection star. I greatly appreciate the input. At this time and until I get more range time I'm marking it off as operator error.
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February 22, 2009
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December 5, 2008
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