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.38 +P BRASS
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jaggman
Emmaus, PA
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December 8, 2009 - 6:38 pm
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SHOOTIST357
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December 8, 2009 - 7:12 pm
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I have some somewhere, but you do realize it is the same as regular 38 spcl brass....  Just add more powder and mark box accordingly.

SHOOT

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Supermagfan
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December 8, 2009 - 8:59 pm
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Jaggman,

Shoot got that straight, same stuff, more powder.  I would recommend brass not on its last reload.

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jaggman
Emmaus, PA
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December 9, 2009 - 12:20 am
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Okay then I'll load away. I do have some that is head stamped +P and I saw that Star Line sells +P but says it's that same as their regular 38 Spcl which can take the extra pressure. I'll give it a try.  Thanks

Ed

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Supermagfan
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December 9, 2009 - 7:03 am
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That is the first I have ever heard of +P brass.  I Learn something new everydaySmile

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SHOOTIST357
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December 9, 2009 - 10:03 am
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I got a couple of boxes of 357 mag brass one time at a yard sale, along with a bunch of 38 brass.  Later, after I tumbled the brass and was putting it in loading blocks I noticed it was all the same length!

Yep, somebody trimmed it all down to 38 spcl length....

SHOOT

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palo
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December 20, 2009 - 9:50 am
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Guys, I don't want to pick a nit here but;

 there are some bullseye shooters out there that have used the Smith & Wesson Model 52 for years. They will tell you that .38 +P brass should be avoided when loading the 148 gr. WC because the brass on the +P is thicker at the base and tapers thinner as it reachs the top.

 This in turn will create a tendency for the WC to bulge the case when seated flush with the top which is required with the 52 auto loader.

Regular .38 brass is not tapered from thick to thinner.

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SHOOTIST357
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December 20, 2009 - 10:43 am
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...Well.... Now I HAVE to go get out the dremel and cut a few cases in half..... 🙂

SHOOT

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palo
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December 21, 2009 - 6:45 am
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Shoot,

 Out of curiosity, I googled "difference in .38 special regular brass and +P" and found a number of threads on it. It appears that Starline produces .38 and .38+P to the same dimensions. However their .45 ACP+P is strengthed.

 It appears that it is up to the manufacturer and the era the brass was manufactured in for the rest.

Probably not worth the effort to cut a perfectly good couple of shells over but WTH, maybe you could complete the experiment with a different brand and let us know what you do find.

occasion

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lbruce
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December 21, 2009 - 10:38 am
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Interesting, however this only gos to show if you strive to eliminate all variables you should use one brand/lot of brass. I mix my 38s as I only plink with 38s and it just isn't that big of a deal. Back in my silhouette days I used like lots of brass for competition.

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SHOOTIST357
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December 21, 2009 - 11:03 am
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I've got a good pic somewhere of some .223 brass I was reloading--I'll have to dig it up.  It shows two cases with the same amount of powder in them.  One is below the neck, the other has a mound on top of the neck...

SHOOT

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jaggman
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December 21, 2009 - 12:49 pm
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Isthe mounded one military brass. Someone told me that military brass is heavier gage and the same amount of powder will be a hotter shot in military brass vs civilian. Screwy

I'm just starting to get into 223 and need as much info as I can get.

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lbruce
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December 21, 2009 - 1:28 pm
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Don't mean to swipe a thread but as for 223 brass, yes military ammo is different than civilian and should not be mixed. At least for the 223. Yes it fits and will shoot, but is considered unsafe. The internal dimension of military brass (.556) is smaller causing a pressure increase. It also has to do with the lead space in the chamber of mil-spec rifles. If your firearm is marked 223 shoot only 223ammo. If it's marked .556 or NATO, it is fine to shoot either commercial 223 or military ammo. When handloading one must adjust for the different thickness in the brass, not to mention reaming primer pockets is a pain.

LB

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Supermagfan
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December 21, 2009 - 4:29 pm
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Since the topic is officially stolen, Jaggman is involved anyway and he started it poke.  I have learned alot about .223 loading with military brass for AR-15's.  Most of what I learned is that I don't like it very much.  I hate seating the primers.  I have loaded rounds that will work though.  Any military loading wisdom to be imprted would be appreciated.

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wdelack
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December 21, 2009 - 8:40 pm
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I have compared the weight difference of 38S and 38S+P brass from the same manufacturer and found the +p stuff the be a little bit heaver.  This was a while ago and I don't recall the weight difference.  IIRC the two manufactures I checked were Remington and Winchester.

RCBS makes a primer pocket swaging tool that will remove the crimp on military brass.  I made the mistake of buying 3000 rounds of once fired Lake City (military) .223 brass.  The RCBS tool adds one step to the brass preparation process but makes the job of pressing in new primers so much easier.

-Wayne

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