December 26, 2010
I finally got a chance to fire my 740 (I had a smith fit a new cylinder as shells were sticking in the original cylinder.) and now have a cylinder rotation problem and the cylinder is stuck closed. Rotating the cylinder was very difficult after the first two rounds. It won't rotate at all after the third round. (There is a fourth live round still in the cylinder.) Barrel to cylinder gap is not a problem. (Removing the shroud and cylinder does not free up the cylinder.) Looking closely from the side, it appears the firing pin is still contacting the spent shell.
So I'm thinking of using a dowel rod to push the firing pin back. I'm a little nervous of working on a gun with a live round but until I free the cylinder I can't remove the live round.
Any suggestions? Thanks is advance for any help.
Range Officer
Range Officers
Dans Club
March 27, 2009
December 26, 2010
The live round is NOT under the firing pin. (I wouldn't even think of working on it if that were case.)
I may take it back to the smith. (I'm sure he'll make it right. He's a good guy and the trigger work he did on my S&W 60 is outstanding.) I'm just hoping it is something simple to save me the trip and the 3 or 4 more weeks he would likely have the gun.
December 26, 2010
After fiddling with it tonight, I'm beginning to think the ammunition, not the gun, is the problem. More specifically, I'm thinking the primer expanded back out to the point it is contacting the frame. I looked closely at the single round that I fired first. The indent from the firing pin is clearly pushed back out. I then checked the firing pin from the hammer side and noted that I can push it in (indicating the firing pin is either broken or more likely, it isn't the problem.)
Assuming the primer is problem, how do I relieve it enough to free the cylinder. Drill it being careful not to heat the cylinder to the point I might detonate the live round?
DWF Supporters
Dans Club
Moderators
November 17, 2008
If the cylinder is stuck from primer flowback (caused by hot ammo) it should push out with some elbow grease. A little lube may help or you might try putting it in the freezer for a hour or so. I am not sure which part will contract the most or first but it can't hurt.
Do you know the origin of the ammo? If it is pushing primers back that bad is probably way too hot. Good luck.
LB
Wisdom is merely the realization of how little one knows, therefore I am wise.
Supporter
Moderators
January 24, 2009
jaggman said:
Sounds like you may have some HOT loads that pushed the primer out or perhaps the primer hole is too large .
Either that, or some really weak loads. I once put an empty case with only a primer in one of my Rugers & pulled the trigger. The primer pushed itself about halfway out of the hole & effectively locked that gun up tight! It took me probably 20 minutes to worm the cylinder free. I won't do that again.
December 26, 2010
Thanks guys. The frame and cylinder are in the freezer now.
The ammo was loaded by the seller. There are two different batches. The big batch, about 90 rounds, is labeled as 14.9 gr of BD powder. I fired four rounds when I first got it. Those rounds stuck in the cylinder (until they cooled and then ejected easily). This happened even though I had really worked on the carbon buildup. So I had a new cylinder installed (figuring the problem was too many regular magnums). I took a close look at those four shells this morning. The primers aren't bulging but they aren't indented either.
Those first four rounds sounded really hot. They were so loud that the roof was rattling and shooters two stalls away turned and looked. These last four rounds were no where near as loud. Definitely not squibs but a real let down when I was expecting a big boom.
I'm guessing I will wind up dis-assembling this batch of shells.
The small batch, about 10 rounds, is labeled as 11.5 gr of BD powder. I think I'll dis-assemble these also. It's just not worth the trouble of stuck shells.
Will I be able to re-use the bullets? (The big batch is labeled as 180 gr. The small batch is listed as 200 gr.)
On the bright side, at least I only paid what the brass would have cost.
DWF Supporters
Dans Club
Moderators
November 17, 2008
Yea I believe I would pull those. The bullets will be fine just burn off the powder. I would not use ammo of unknown origin. I will shoot someone else's reloads, but only from a very trusted source. Good luck and keep us informed.
LB
Wisdom is merely the realization of how little one knows, therefore I am wise.
December 26, 2010
Freezing it worked. Freed it up just enough that after some wiggling the cylinder swung open. (I'm not sure if it was needed but I did use a jeweler's screw driver to hold the cylinder stop down.) It seems to work fine with the shells removed. We''ll see once I put some regular magnums through it.
Supporter
Moderators
January 24, 2009
95XL883 said:
Will I be able to re-use the bullets? (The big batch is labeled as 180 gr. The small batch is listed as 200 gr.)
I don't think you'll have a problem re-using those bullets. They will likely have a crimp mark on them, but should otherwise be as good as new.
I'm glad you were able to get the cylinder open. Are the primers protruding above the heads of the shells?
December 26, 2010
Charger Fan said:
Are the primers protruding above the heads of the shells?
Yes, the area of the firing pin strike is about a 1/64" above the rest of the primer. What indentation the firing pin made has been pushed back out. While 1/64" isn't much, it was enough to keep the cylinder from rotating or opening. (Sorry the photos aren't clearer on that. I haven't figured out how to make my camera focus clearly on something that small.)
Thanks for the advice on the bullets.
PS. I don't have a second home and can't afford one. The magazine is a free publication (at least I hope my wife isn't secretly paying for it) and the Flint Hills is wide open country where firearms fit right in. I was trying to make a cool backdrop for the picture.
Dans Club
March 2, 2008
lbruce said:
Yea I believe I would pull those. The bullets will be fine just burn off the powder. I would not use ammo of unknown origin. I will shoot someone else's reloads, but only from a very trusted source. Good luck and keep us informed.
LB
LB-Help out a newbie reloader: Does "burn off the powder" mean to clean the bullet in some way, or to discard the powder of unknown origin ...
Sorry to post a stupid a stupid question but, well, I'm stupid
Steve
I went to a bookstore and asked the saleswoman "Were is the Self Help Section?" She said if she told me, it would defeat the purpose.
George Carlin
December 26, 2010
Steve CT said:
LB-Help out a newbie reloader: Does "burn off the powder" mean to clean the bullet in some way, or to discard the powder of unknown origin ...
Sorry to post a stupid a stupid question but, well, I'm stupid
Steve
At least you're smart enough to ask. Me, I'm thinking I've already fertilized my yard. Maybe I can use the old powder to get rid of moles.
DWF Supporters
Dans Club
Moderators
November 17, 2008
Well I guess I should have been more descriptive. I was referring to waste powder disposal. Any safedisposal method is great. Mole removal would do fine (visions of Caddyshack) He He He , as will fertilizing the lawn, or just pile it in the drive way and light it off. Most folkes are supprised at how slow it actually burns when not in an enclosed container.
LB
Wisdom is merely the realization of how little one knows, therefore I am wise.
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