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Dans Club
March 2, 2008
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THIS from The High Road provides some great info about stainless steel, both in general, and in gun manufacturing.
I went to a bookstore and asked the saleswoman "Were is the Self Help Section?" She said if she told me, it would defeat the purpose.
George Carlin
February 20, 2008
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If you're going to drink, don't drive. Don't even putt.
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June 25, 2013
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You can use food grade citric acid to passivate stainless.
I polish an 1954 Airstream and I know all about aluminum passivation due to acidic rain water.
The trick is to get the surface polished smoother and smoother over a period of time "years", then the surface has less open pores for the oxidation to occur. The shines stays longer between polishes. If you passivate there goes that mirror refection and shine. That oxidated corrosion is some hard stuff it does protect the aluminum uderneath.
Same holds true for stainless. Only stainless takes way, way more elbow grease to get the mirror effect. The citric acid bath will oxidize the surface and protect the material underneath at the expense of dazzle.
Endeavor to persevere,
Press on regardless.
Need little, want less, love more.
February 20, 2008
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On a side note, I've used Kool-Ade UNSWEETENED Lemonade to remove rust from tools and to clean my dishwasher (as per GE recommendation, not the name brand though). It also removed rust from concrete.
If you're going to drink, don't drive. Don't even putt.
August 28, 2009
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Thanks for posting the the info. on passivation. While I am very familiar with the process through my work at Honeywell and Goodrich Aerospace, I read further down the posts which prevented me from making an error when I blast some steel shrouds this week. I completely forgot about separating the blast media used on steel from media used on stainless. I'm guessing this is most likely why 2 of the shrouds in my Norwich 715 pack started discoloring along the top ribs!! Luckily a fresh bead blast brings them back to new again.
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Dans Club
March 25, 2013
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It may be too much, but I remove the rust AND the blueing from my Japanese Bonsai tools when needed by using white vinegar. In the absence on blueing I keep them oiled when not in continual use. I only do that to old, long ignored tools. Unless you mean to reblue. It may work well on stainless but I quit buying stainless tools 25 years ago. They are more brittle than the carbon steel and are prone to breaking. Perhaps that is one reason Dan Wesson would not make a stainless gun. Since then they do have better metals I think. In Semi Autos the problem was galling of the old stainless from the slide. I don't believe the strain on a gun is as much as the strain on a concave bonsai pruner blade though.
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