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May 17, 2010
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I think I know the answer to this, but it does not hurt to ask.
Regarding the matching of a cylinder to guns internals which is modified to correct timing (the cylinder or the works in the frame). Would the cog part (which not actually a part of the cylinder but is part of the ejection mechanism, ever be modified as part of a repair/timing/tuning? (other than literally being broken). If this piece is replaced does the gun need to be re-timed?
Would a cylinder that works in one gun be expected to work in another?
A cylinder that is "loose" would be the worn divets in the cylinder or a worn part that locks the cylinder or both?
Soap Box, Ballot Box, Ammo Box
in that order.
4 Monson Model 15's
1 Palmer FB 15
1 Rossi 357 Model 92 (lever)
1 CZ 75B
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Range Officers
Dans Club
March 27, 2009
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Man over my head! I think the ejector from one will change out to another with out a problem as to the rest???? Speaking in Dan's any way!
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January 24, 2009
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I've swapped cylinders in one gun without doing any additional fitting. I have noticed that the timing is affected in DA mode. The cylinder doesn't want to rotate to full lockup, so I have to be careful. It's fine in SA though & since that's usually where I do most of my shooting, it doesn't really bother me.
I do make it a point to not let anyone else shoot it. There's plenty of other guns to keep friends & my kids busy at the range.
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Range Officers
May 2, 2009
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The extractor and hand are fitted parts---now, you can occasionally get some to swap and "work"... however, they are probably not perfect.
If you pull back the hammer on your DW and very carefully watch the hand turn the cylinder... you should see it glide up and slide smoothly off the star.
Sometimes you will feel a little pressure before it slides off--this is a poor fitting hand that you are basically being forced off the star.
Depending on the level of machining depends on how much fitting is required. A revolver is basically 6 different guns when it comes to timing. Sometimes you'll have a revolver with one cylinder that never quite falls in line like the others--star may be a little more worn or shorter than the rest.
SHOOT
May 17, 2010
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Perfect response....
Yes Shoot I have 15-2 with one cylinder that suffers frequent FtF, especially in DA. This is a well worn ole gal, and my fear is that the she may need new parts to really get right. It is at the smith now. But she may need to be shipped back to DW.
OK then to continue on. Given an extractor and hand are tuned (with one cylinder) ... and the extractor is placed in a different cylinder, would one reasonalby expect acceptable timing, or are the cylinders a varying factor that cannot be ignored.
Soap Box, Ballot Box, Ammo Box
in that order.
4 Monson Model 15's
1 Palmer FB 15
1 Rossi 357 Model 92 (lever)
1 CZ 75B
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Range Officer
Range Officers
May 2, 2009
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Pinetor said:
OK then to continue on. Given an extractor and hand are tuned (with one cylinder) ... and the extractor is placed in a different cylinder, would one reasonalby expect acceptable timing, or are the cylinders a varying factor that cannot be ignored.
I've had luck in some DW's swapping extractor into new cylinder . As long as it fits in there nice and tight, you shouldn't have a problem. The key is if the bolt locks in at the right time with the new cylinder.
SHOOT
Dans Club
March 2, 2008
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Posts 4/5/6 are examples of how I learn stuff here every day. I "know" that timing and fitting are important, then these guys talk about stuff that makes me start pulling guns out of the safe and checking stuff out.
Makes me go "Huh"
I went to a bookstore and asked the saleswoman "Were is the Self Help Section?" She said if she told me, it would defeat the purpose.
George Carlin
February 4, 2012
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From a home 'smith' with fair experience here-
Cylinder lock-up (the hand and cylinder notches) can sometimes be moved slightly or tightened, and it isn't always easy to do. You're working in tight holes with tiny parts here, and sometimes if a new part can't be had you've got to weld metal in, reshape, and reharden. I've done exactly two that way- one a very early Taurus and one a worn-out H+R. I won't do another- it ain't worth the effort. If lock-up is sloppy I sometimes make a washer-type fitted shim out of a feeler gauge and hope it will align without being too far to one side or the other. It's not to be used for a serious purpose after that, it's only to make something completely unusable work for a little while longer, because the shim will wear and might jam the lock bolt after that, leaving you where you were before. All revolvers have some play here so don't panic- if it's not shaving lead and is accurate it's probably OK so long as it always locks.
The cylinder rotation is all in the hand and must rotate the cylinder into position fully every time or it needs some fixing, usually fitting a new hand then shortening it till it just clears the tightest star notch. If the star notches aren't consistent you can change the tight ones but it isn't easy. The best it to let the factory guys deal with this, if nothing else they have the jigs, equipment, and experience to do it fast and tight the first time around. In some guns the hand will hold the cylinder against one side of the lock bolt/cylinder notch till you let off and the hand drops. In some guns the hand disengages before then. Fit a new hand this way in the tight ones, wear will take care of the rest. A too-tight hand will leave a tight trigger pull at the end of the trigger stroke. This will damage the star, work to just short of this for perfection.
To test cylinder timing unload the gun even if you just did that. Close the cylinder and pull the hammer back slowly till the trigger just clicks into position. Do this on every chamber. Every time the cylinder should lock before the trigger goes into cocked position. Most of the time there is more hammer travel and we over-cock which covers this mis-timing up. On DA pull the trigger very slowly instead, with your other thumb behind your trigger finger to prevent over-travel from having an effect (on a DW if the trigger stop is set right you can forget the second thumb, just pull very slowly) Again every chamber should lock before the hammer releases. More often than not in DA the inertia from the rotating cylinder covers up short timing, allowing the cylinder to lock as the hammer falls, resulting is something workable but potentially unsafe.
In semi-rapid fire the stacking trigger pull of my DW lets me pull most of a DA cycle, locking the cylinder through inertia, but leaving the last of the pull-off smooth and clean. Most guns won't do this. This seems to help my off-hand accuracy quite a bit in DA shooting, just another reason to love a DW!
Phil
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