October 17, 2017
I’ve had an interesting afternoon gunsmithing in my garage. After spending about three hours making a tool to remove the ratchet from my pre-war Colt, I went to use it and I literally could have taken it off with my fingers. It had obviously been taken off before, but so carefully done that I could not see any evidence. So, I placed the cylinder shim on the crane leg, and assembled the revolver to check for function. Perfect! Now I’m wondering if I should use the blue loctite to secure the ratchet, or leave it as is. Have any of you guys ever had to replace shims that you’ve installed due to damage from cylinder/barrel gap flaming?
October 17, 2017
Colt’s are unique, especially pre-war ones in the way the cylinders are assembled. The ratchet is screwed onto the ejector rod and then staked in place to keep it from moving. Colt’s, DW and Charter Arms are the only revolvers (that I’m aware of) that headspace the cylinder at the front. S&W and all others do it at the rear. A cylinder shim should last forever in a Smith because it’s placed inside the cylinder where no flames can get to it. Not the case in a DW or Colt where the flames are blasting away at the edge of the shim each time it’s fired. My question is; do these shims eventually burn up, and need replacing? I know many of you small frame DW owners have used cylinder shims, so that’s why I ask.
October 17, 2017
Decided to add just a dab of blue loctite to the threads of the ejector rod before assembling the ratchet. That way, it shouldn’t take too much torque to loosen it if I need to later on. For now, the gap, headspace and endplay are within very acceptable tolerances. Not bad for an 86 year old very well used revolver! Time will tell if the shim holds up to a lot of shooting.
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