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May 28, 2013
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Hey everyone,
I bought a DW 14-2 as my first revolver, and it's worked wonderfully so far. In fact, I think I've been to the range with it about four times now... each usually putting through two boxes of .38 special and half a box of .357 mag. Mostly because my handgun proficiency is bad and I'm working on getting better with a light load before I move on... or honestly I really enjoy the .38 special anyway.
Regardless, I went to the range on Sunday to do the usual... eventually my buddy and I made our way to the pistol range. After firing maybe a box of .38 special and about 14 .357 mag bullets... it started having this weird problem. After about the third shot, the cylinder unlocks itself and freely sits... causing of course the action to freeze up and the weapon to be unable to fire. You have to turn the cylinder again into the locked position as if you had never put it back in. Don't really understand the problem very well because I'm new to revolvers in general, let alone like a complex DW. Could this be caused by a timing error? I did happen to buy some snap caps last week that I have been using to try and improve trigger control... perhaps they managed to damage something?
I'm looking to get a diagnosis so if it continues after tinkering, I have an idea of what to say to a gunsmith... if I can find one that knows his way around a DW. I took it back and cleaned it quite thoroughly, and right now it seems to cycle perfectly fine.
March 27, 2013
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So you're saying is the bolt disengages and the cylinder rotates to a non-firing position? The bolt is the half circle piece that engages the notches on the cylinder. (Someone correct me if I'm wrong on the terminology)
I had that happen on my 41. What I did to solve the problem was to fully break down the gun and clean all of the parts around the bolt. After reinstalling I haven't had any issues. The bolt was just sticking in the down position. It might be that the gun is just dirty. Taking apart the small frame DW is also pretty easy once you've done it once. 
I'm sure someone will find you the link to taking apart the small frame Dan soon enough. Good luck.
May 28, 2013
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SMKYTXN said
So you're saying is the bolt disengages and the cylinder rotates to a non-firing position? The bolt is the half circle piece that engages the notches on the cylinder. (Someone correct me if I'm wrong on the terminology)
I had that happen on my 41. What I did to solve the problem was to fully break down the gun and clean all of the parts around the bolt. After reinstalling I haven't had any issues. The bolt was just sticking in the down position. It might be that the gun is just dirty. Taking apart the small frame DW is also pretty easy once you've done it once.
I'm sure someone will find you the link to taking apart the small frame Dan soon enough. Good luck.
I was about to say... well I'm screwed. I've been too afraid to take the whole thing apart because I've heard with revolvers like this you can break springs and such. I've just been using q-tips and finesse to get hard to reach areas, haha.
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July 2, 2011
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No reason to be afraid of taking it down. Check out the "Average Joe Tune Up" thread. It's really well written and illustrated. Just take your time and keep track of what goes where. You may be surprised what a simple deep cleaning will do.
Once you've mastered that, you may want to consider a spring kit. You do that and you will think you have a whole pistol.
To the paranoid people who check behind shower curtains for murderers:
if you find one...what's your plan?
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April 20, 2010
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+1 on what Bruce said. Your working with a 30+ year old pistol, and it might never have had a thorough cleaning. I would read over the Average Joe tuneup, then on a day when you can dedicate some time give your Dan a complete cleaning and reassemble. See how it functions after. A lot of times cleaning the internals does wonders. And compared to other revolvers Dan Wessons are very simple internally. If you run into trouble assembling, the guys here can walk you thru it.
-Lonwolf
"The lion and the tiger may be more powerful, but the Wolf does not perform in the circus"
Dans Club
March 2, 2008
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This may be as simple as very thoroughly cleaning the notch that the cylinder latch secures into at the front of the frame. If there is crud built up in there to the point that the cylinder latch does not fully engage, your cylinder will dislocate (open) slightly, certainly enough to affect timing and lock up your gun.
All that being said, do at least a thorough cleanup:
https://www.danwessonforum.com/forum/reloading/tuning-up-your-15-2-the-average-joe-method/
Everyone that does this (even just the clean and lube) ends up very satisfied with their results.
I went to a bookstore and asked the saleswoman "Were is the Self Help Section?" She said if she told me, it would defeat the purpose.
George Carlin
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July 2, 2011
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Well bonemold, looks like you've been given a homework assignment! LOL
It's funny, once I got comfortable with the process, I tend to do at least a partial tear down after every range trip.
But, then, taking 'em apart is half the fun! Right Ron??
To the paranoid people who check behind shower curtains for murderers:
if you find one...what's your plan?
February 11, 2010
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Like the rest, take it down and give it a good cleaning. There are less parts to deal with than
most other revolver brands. If your dead set on not taking it apart then take the grip off,
get the spray type can of Rem oil w/straw and spray the heck in every orifice you can get into.
Put the gun in a gallon zip lock baggy over night, repeat in 24 hours and then blow everything
out with air. Wipe her down real good and then hang it for a day or two and maybe some
more air until your sure you have no more oil drips before you put the grips back on.
-Blacktop
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February 22, 2009
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And Roger- you (I) MUST take down every NTM Dan. It's a sickness, I think, and has progressed to the wife's Terrain, my Silverado, and everything I own which has an internal combustion engine...
Technically, the glass is always full; half liquid, half air....
May 28, 2013
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I notice the picture that shows the tools needed to disassemble a DW for cleaning, but I'm such a novice I don't even know what they all are. If I get a barrel wrench, gap check, and allen wrenches from EWK... would I be alright? I don't recognize all the tools aside from those and obviously a choice of cleaner and lube.
June 18, 2012
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I have a .44 and not a .357 but, like you, I was pretty scared to break it all the way down. But I was having a trigger problem and eventually had to dive in. I haven't found the problem with the trigger yet but I've had it apart at least a dozen times and I no longer live in fear of doing so. From what I understand, the removable side plate on the .357 makes it a little friendlier too.
As far as tools go, the kit from EWK about does it. Of course an assortment of screwdrivers, punches, tiny tweezers and dental pick like objects come in handy sometimes.
May 28, 2013
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Well, the amount of posts with the same suggestion gave me enough confidence to make some progress. Eh, progress as in I've ordered long overdue parts I'll need to commence Operation Save Danny. Ordered a barrel wrench, gage kit, and small parts kit from EWK. I figured to get the extra parts kit in case I break something or the springs look like they want to retire... who knows! I'll try to remember an update when it all comes in and I get down and dirty. Unfortunately I'm out of town during the week next week, so it may be a while (since I have to wait for my tools to proceed).
Dans Club
March 2, 2008
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This is so easy to do, once you are done and see the results, you will be amazed.
I am not a big follower of DIY stuff like this on other revolver brands, so I'm not an expert on what the S&W and Ruger guys can do on their guns. I really think the simplicity of the DW design lends itself to basic, common sense cleaning, honing and tuning.
I went to a bookstore and asked the saleswoman "Were is the Self Help Section?" She said if she told me, it would defeat the purpose.
George Carlin
May 28, 2013
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I hope so... like I said I've read instances where people take apart a S&W and a spring flies out... never to be found again.
Also, I have another question while this thread is up. My DW 14-2 doesn't have any color to the front sight... were they all made like that? I don't mind, but I have a friend recommend putting some nail polish of a bright color on the tip to make target acquisition better. Just curious if that's a common thing.
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February 16, 2013
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When Im worried that something will "fly away", I put the gun in a large see through Ziploc bag, just in case! 
Trying to avoid this.... 
May 28, 2013
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bikeridertim said
When Im worried that something will "fly away", I put the gun in a large see through Ziploc bag, just in case!Trying to avoid this....
That's actually a pretty clever trick. I wish I had thought of that, though perhaps it won't be necessary.
Dans Club
March 2, 2008
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The 14-2 will have a more integral and less interchangeable frnt sight. You will not find an original 14-2 front sight with a colored insert. You can use some paint to make it easier to see.
I went to a bookstore and asked the saleswoman "Were is the Self Help Section?" She said if she told me, it would defeat the purpose.
George Carlin
May 28, 2013
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You know, I have another question. I received my tools and such in the mail today, and before I've even taken apart anything I've noticed my cylinder gap is too small. Is it a common thing for the cylinder gap to change over time and with use? When I first bought the revolver, it was probably about at what the gage is suggesting. It's definitely lower now though, to the point where it's obvious why the cylinder was failing to cycle (and thusly unlocking) because it would have been hitting/scraping the barrel. Is this a sign of a greater problem or does it just need tightening every so often?
Unfortunately I have a business trip ahead of me so I won't be able to work much on it until next week.
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February 22, 2009
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It could be the nut was loose and the gap shrunk as the barrel rotated, but more likely is the gap was set on a low chamber. It is quite common for the cylinders to have a high spot (not square). When you gap your revolver, make sure it is on a high chamber.
Technically, the glass is always full; half liquid, half air....
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March 2, 2008
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rwsem said
It could be the nut was loose and the gap shrunk as the barrel rotated, but more likely is the gap was set on a low chamber. It is quite common for the cylinders to have a high spot (not square). When you gap your revolver, make sure it is on a high chamber.
This comment about cylinders not neccessarily being true and square applies to most/all revolvers. This is more significant in a DW because you can adjust your gap. Mainstream manufacturers will set to .006 as factory spec to allow for the variance to narrow the gap down and still not have interference problems.
If you do not adjust your cold gap to .002 on the "tightest" chamber you will very likely have a B/C binding problem.
I went to a bookstore and asked the saleswoman "Were is the Self Help Section?" She said if she told me, it would defeat the purpose.
George Carlin
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