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Cylinder won't turn
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MJK
Detroit, MI
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January 12, 2014 - 4:39 pm
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I last fired my DW 357 magnum about eight weeks ago and it worked OK.  Today I tried to use it but the cylinder would barely turn.  I put some oil on it but that didn't help.  Can't figure out how to remove the cylinder as I'm sure it's just dirty and needs a good cleaning.  Any suggestions??

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SCORPIO
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January 12, 2014 - 4:44 pm
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First start by resetting the barrel to cylinder gap.  I assume this is NOT a Fixed barrel gun?  Using a barrel wrench, loosen the barrel nut and remove the shroud.  Next unscrew the barrel tube a few turns and see if you can open the cyliinder. If you can, clean the cylinder face with some solvent and a brass or nylon brush.  Close cylinder and using a .006" feeler gage, scew the barrel in until it just touches the feeler gage and you can slide it in and out with out undue resistance.  Repeat this process on all six chambers and set the final gap on the tightest one.  Now open the cylinder and hold pressure on the barrel tube with your thumb and reinstall the shroud and barrel nut.  See how that works and let us know.

Anything worth doing is worth doing well.

My father

If a man designed it, and a man built it, then a man can fix it.

My grandfather

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MJK
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January 12, 2014 - 4:57 pm
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Thanks for the suggestion but this isn't a barrel clearance problem.  The cylinder turns but with a great deal of effort when I open the cylinder by moving latch down and pushing the cylinder to left out of the frame opening.  In other words, spinning the cylinder takes a lot of effort.  Cylinder should spin easily.  

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SCORPIO
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January 12, 2014 - 5:31 pm
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OK got it.  In that case try spraying some solvent, CLP or even WD-40 down the cylinder pivot and work the ejector rod and turn the cylinder while doing this.  Sounds like there is a bunch of carbon fouling from shooting that has built up in the bushing.

Anything worth doing is worth doing well.

My father

If a man designed it, and a man built it, then a man can fix it.

My grandfather

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rwsem
SOWELA (Southwest Louisiana)

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January 12, 2014 - 5:50 pm
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Technically, the glass is always full; half liquid, half air....

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MJK
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January 13, 2014 - 5:56 am
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OK thanks, those tips are helpful.  I'll try some penetrating oil and see if that helps.

By the way, I unscrewed the ejector rod and removed the extractor but the cylinder is still attached.  Is there something else that needs to be taken apart before I can remove the cylinder? 

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Dan Fan
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January 13, 2014 - 9:00 am
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Check the grip screw if it's to tight or if the screw is to long it will cause this problem.

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mister callan
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January 13, 2014 - 12:10 pm
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Try this to remove the cylinder from the frame.

Undo the 2 bolts & tap the sideplate to remove it. Be careful as this also exposes the "guts" of the firing mechanism. Look carefully into the bottom recess now revealed, just above the trigger guard, you'll see the other half of the crane.

 About 1/2 way back is a small circular "clip" surrounding the pivot shaft. Pull it up & away to release the crane from the frame. Now the cylinder simply slides off to the rear.

If you look in the archives section there is a manual with a parts diagram which will show you what I'm talking about in detail.

Matthew Quigley on handguns:

“I said I never had much use for one. Never said

I didn't know how to use it.”

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lonwolf93
Lancaster Pa
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January 13, 2014 - 3:38 pm
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https://www.danwessonforum.com/forum/reloading/tuning-up-your-15-2-the-average-joe-method/

 

The Average Joe tuneup is a great thread, if you have not looked at it yet. You will get a complete understanding of disassembly and cleaning of your small frame Dan Wesson. As Mr Callan said you must remove the sideplate to remove the cylinder from the frame, unless you are working on an older porkchop model.

 

-Lonwolf

"The lion and the tiger may be more powerful, but the Wolf does not perform in the circus"

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Ole Dog
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January 13, 2014 - 5:45 pm
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That's what mister callan meant. Tap on the grip tang with a wooden screwdriver handle or wooden mallet and the side plate will pop off if you first remove the sideplate screws. The hand often moves to. When you slide the sideplate back you must take care the trigger return spring is on the little ledge next to the trigger and is held there by the hand going over it before you replace the sideplate. If the spring slips past the ledge and is between the trigger and the hand the trigger will not return after firing.There must be carbon or even sand in the cylinder mechanism and bushing. Even if lubrication works you should clean it out. 

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MJK
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January 13, 2014 - 7:11 pm
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OK I did it.  Took me a while to discover one of the sideplate screws was covered by the grip.  After that, the sideplate came off and I was able to swing out the cylinder and remove it.  The cylinder was stuck so tight I had to work it off by turning the cylinder and tugging at it. 

The shaft the cylinder turns on was coated with a tough old deposit of lube - don't know what kind but it took gun cleaner and a scouring pad to get the stuff off.  Cleaned the inner part of the cylinder with gun cleaner and a wire barrel brush.  Put on a few drops of gun oil on the shaft and the cylinder spins like a charm!  Even managed to put it back together with no parts left over. 

Will take it to the range this weekend.

By way of background, I'm a little skittish about taking guns apart.  When I was a teenager, I was shooting a semi auto Marlin 22 cal that somehow malfunctioned and the shell fired with the action open.  I got a powder burn on my  forearm which wasn't too bad but Mom insisted I go to the ER because there were flecks of gunpowder in my skin.  Getting that stuff scrubbed out by a nurse who was not sympathetic hurt worse than the powder burn.   So fast forward to today and messing around with a .357 magnum is a little intimidating.  I did manage to adjust the barrel clearance last year so I can at least do that. 

Thanks, everyone for your advice. 

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Ole Dog
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January 13, 2014 - 7:50 pm
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That's really great! Another success story. Now it's a safe bet there's dried lube and crud in other places. It is no longer a mystery and you have been blooded. Do the "tuneup". Lightly polish the action and give a good smoothing to the inside of the frame and sideplate. The sideplate holds everything together and the parts rub the case and sideplate. 8lb. mainspring and reduced power trigger return spring will make a big diff in DA. EWK sells them. You will really proud of youself (deservedly) when your done.

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Steve
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January 13, 2014 - 8:16 pm
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Most of the time the BIGGEST improvement comes from just a deep cleaning and proper lubrication of all the pieces. So many DW's have spent way too much time as Safe Queens that they are chock full of old lube, dust, powder residue, ...

A little TLC goes a long way

I went to a bookstore and asked the saleswoman "Were is the Self Help Section?" She said if she told me, it would defeat the purpose.

George Carlin

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rwsem
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January 13, 2014 - 9:17 pm
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Technically, the glass is always full; half liquid, half air....

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Dave_Ks
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January 16, 2014 - 10:02 pm
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Good job!  Glad nothing was bent and it all works well!   Do the tune up the pictures and instructions are the best out here!   

DSCN1339.jpg

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MJK
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January 19, 2014 - 1:37 pm
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Just got back from the range. 

Put a box of 50 38 specials thru it and everything worked OK!  cool

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bikeridertim
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