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August 20, 2019
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I replaced the cylinder yoke latch shown with a new one from EWK. Is this supposed to be fitted by taking one side down flat until it fits snug? I put the new one, which was rounded on both sides, in as is and it's a bit tight opening the cylinder. This also opened up the B/C gap from .007 to .014. I replaced the latch because the rounded front part of the yoke was proud to the frame and I could push it forward to flush easily. I had been experiencing some light strikes and I thought replacement might correct it. Other than the cylinder/yoke being slightly harder to swing open the gun dry fires normally. Should I flatten one side of the "latch" some?
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Dans Club
March 25, 2013
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I think what you have is a crane LOCK. If it's under the sideplate and keeps the cylinder assembly from sliding off. It is perfectly okay to flatten a side to fit.
August 20, 2019
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After eliminating the other common problems that cause occasional light strikes, I read a worn lock can allow the cylinder to move forward and cause light strikes. After installation of the new lock, the cylinder when closed is pushed back further toward the recoil shield. I would think this would give deeper primer strikes. I also had to reset the B/C gap since it widened @ .007 from what it was before the new lock.
October 17, 2017
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Not sure about all this. The spring loaded detent ball already holds the cylinder in the forward position, so I can’t imagine it moving any further once the hammer hits the primer. Also, the cylinder collar needs to be tight against the frame since it is bearing the forward thrust as firing begins. Once the heel of the bullet passes the cylinder/barrel gap the cylinder is violently thrust rearward against the recoil shield. If you moved the cylinder crane rearward .007 there is probably now a gap between the cylinder collar and the frame, which means the crane is now taking the forward thrust. I suspect something could become bent if fired in this condition. A better option would be to shim the cylinder back the .007 and leave the crane as is. To verify this theory, try to see if there is indeed a gap at the frame opening and cylinder collar with the cylinder closed. If not, then you’re probably OK. Worth a quick look though.
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Dans Club
March 25, 2013
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I think the cylinder lock, the little semicircle of metal, holds the cylinder from sliding off when the shroud is off. That's all. Porkchops do not have that and when the shroud is off the cylinder assembly slides right off. Maybe it was a little too disturbing for folk so the dash 2s went with the lock under the sideplate. Personally, I think the gun is easier to clean with the cylinder off. Instead of a roll pin centering the shroud, the porkchops had a porkchop shaped shroud that fit on a dimple near the bottom of the frame.
Porkchops were the start of Dan Wessons reputation for astonishing accuracy. There are several reasons proffered for that. Number one being the barrel tube under tension like a guitar string. Two, the very short hammer fall that meant the bullet was fired faster after sighting. Less time to waver. Three, I think is that the porkchops shroud, hence front sight being located on that dimple. It lent more accuracy to the front sight I believe. Fourth, and very controversial, is the early claims that the early Dan Wesson barrels were choked by a thousandth of an inch as supposedly were Pythons. Perhaps only the model 11s and 12s were choked. Ah, I forgot, second, after the tensioned barrel, is the front lockup.
February 16, 2016
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January 24, 2009
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This thread seems to be a "part B" of an initial thread somewhere...are we talking about a small frame, or a large frame?
October 17, 2017
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Now that you mention it, I think Ole Dog and myself assumed it was a small frame DW. I’ve never owned a large frame, and looking closely at the photo of the crane lock, it looks a little different from what I’m used to seeing. stonebuster, what say ye?
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Dans Club
March 25, 2013
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Newer ones, even small frame, are a little more robust than ones I think and may have to be fitted.
August 20, 2019
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3ric said
Now that you mention it, I think Ole Dog and myself assumed it was a small frame DW. I’ve never owned a large frame, and looking closely at the photo of the crane lock, it looks a little different from what I’m used to seeing. stonebuster, what say ye?
Sorry for the late reply, busy with fall yard cleanup. I should 've posted it's a small frame 15-2 Monson 357. After your previous post with concerns about creating a gap between cylinder bushing and frame, I took some photos to check area of concern. I see a small gap in that area and think it would be wise for me to file the cylinder lock flatter on one side so it's not pushing the cylinder away from frame. Then I can install an endshake cylinder bushing/shim to move the cylinder back to try to eliminate light strikes. BTW, I tried 100 rounds using CCI #400 SRP with my 38spl reloads with gun as it is now with no light strikes. I used small rifle primers because they're thicker, harder to ignite, than CCI SPP. As you suggested it's probably not the way to fix my light strike issue though. What do you think about what the photo shows?
October 17, 2017
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Yes, the photos clearly show what I was concerned about. That gap should not be there. I’m not sure why your crane fits the gun the way it does. Do you know if it’s original to the gun? After 100 rounds fired, do you feel any difference in how the crane opens and closes?
August 20, 2019
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3ric said
Yes, the photos clearly show what I was concerned about. That gap should not be there. I’m not sure why your crane fits the gun the way it does. Do you know if it’s original to the gun? After 100 rounds fired, do you feel any difference in how the crane opens and closes?
The crane was tighter rubbing on the frame more with the thicker cylinder lock. The wider cylinder lock pushed the crane & cylinder back causing the gap. I replaced the new cylinder lock with the narrower original one and the gap is gone and normal(?) as the new photo shows. I haven't reset the B/C gap yet as it closed up again(but not dragging on barrel) after reinstalling the original cylinder lock. It seems the ball in the recoil shield was pushed back farther with the thicker lock. Before and after photos. Back to square one and on to trying to loosen the ejector rod to add shim .002 to get a better strike on the primers. This should move the cylinder back while keeping the crane where it belongs. I've read all the posts here regarding light strike causes and exhausted all the other options.
October 17, 2017
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That looks so much better, and as it should be. I think you could add at least .005 shim material to start with. This is more likely to help with the light strikes. Check your endshake after adding the shims to be sure you’re not running too tight, but I doubt it. Yes, the detent ball will be pushed a little farther into the recoil shield as you move the cylinder rearward, but this is normal, and not a problem. Once you arrive at the ideal amount of shims for the total that works best, I would try to get a single shim of that thickness; it will hold up better to the hot gases.
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