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Dans Club
March 2, 2008
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One of our newer Members has posed a question about cleaning his Dan Wesson. I know we've talked in bits and pieces about that, but how about we get some info right here on cleaning DW revolvers (basic to detailed) and some maintainence (basic to detailed).
This will be a pinned Topic to keep it up top as a permanent reference. Lets get some of the experts in on this, I know you're out there.
Steve
I went to a bookstore and asked the saleswoman "Were is the Self Help Section?" She said if she told me, it would defeat the purpose.
George Carlin
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Dans Club
February 9, 2009
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I usually dissassemble my DW's each time I shoot them and clean them thoroughly, but then I get to the range way too infrequently. The most common cleaning failure has been discussed often and that is to be sure to clean the inside of a shroud that has the older style ported barrels. The best way I have found to do this is with a 12 gauge shotgun brush inside the shroud to remove all the debirs left deposited through the barrel ports.
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May 2, 2009
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I don't clean my guns near enough; but, my kids and I live 10 minutes from the range. We shoot a lot, clean very little. Summer is for shooting, winter is for detailed cleaning. Over the winter we will pull out every gun I own and inspect/clean it.
As far as DW cleaing is concerned--I always scrub the cylinder face to prevent any build-up, as well as the inside of the topstrap. Always clean under the ejector star. I do enough barrel swapping that my barrels and shrouds are always clean. I make sure the threads are always spotless and well oiled.
SHOOT
September 17, 2010
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i kinda can follow what u guys are talking bout... some pictures or videos would be most helpful. Thanks.
Dans Club
March 2, 2008
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When I clean my Dan Wesson revolver: (BTW, I clean with CLP Breakfree and lube with MilTec)
1) Make certain it is unloaded; ammunition is not even in the same room
2) Remove barrel and shroud, shroud is wiped down and swabbed out with a mop type swab and CLP
3) Exterior of the barrel is cleaned, threads at both ends are cleaned with a brush (any ports in the barrel are cleaned with a pipcleaner, as are shroud ports)
4) Interior of the barrel is scrubbed (forcing cone to muzzle) with a bronze brush and CLP repeatedly. Clean with patches (forcing cone to muzzle) repeatedly until clean. Repeat with brush and patches until interior of barrel is clean and shiny, no trace of lead or powder.
5) Scrub each chamber with bronze brush and CLP. Swab each chamber with patches, and repeat with brush and patches to remove all powder and lead residue.
6) Push ejector rod to full extent and clean the ejector rod, star, and cylinder recess for the star. Lightly oil the extended ejector rod.
7) Lightly scrub the front of the cylinder with a green scotchbrite and CLP; wipe clean to remove residue.
8) Clean the frame inside the cylinder recess, with special attention to the top strap area, barrel threads, and firing pin area. Clean the slot for the cylinder latch, scraping out residue as needed.
9) With the hammer cocked, clean the hammer area with cotton swab and CLP.
10) Remove the grip, clean the frame and tang with a patch and CLP.
11) Thoroughly wipe the entire frame, barrel, and shroud with a dry towel.
12) Check sideplate screws and front sight screw for snugness, reinstall the grip (very lightly oil the tang with rubber grips) with the grip screw firmly tightened. Check for correct single and double action function.
13) Lightly oil the barrel threads and (with cylinder open) gently screw the barrel fully into the frame, then back out to allow the cylinder to close. Screw the barrel nut fully down on the threads and remove ("chasing" the threads at both ends). Lightly oil the barrel, set barrel gap, and install the barrel nut. Recheck barrel gap on all chambers and adjust as needed.
14) Test again for correct single and double action function.
15) Wipe down completely with a silicone cloth, then with a clean, dry cloth
Done 
I went to a bookstore and asked the saleswoman "Were is the Self Help Section?" She said if she told me, it would defeat the purpose.
George Carlin
March 25, 2008
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I'm not into detailing but no matter what I will always take time to put gun away whiped down till dry spray copiously with wd40 then wrap with oil cloth or any extra rust inhibiter shipping paper that I scrounge from work, that has been removed from bearings that have been pulled off the shelf. then when time permits I'll go back and scrub clean any guns that need it
.
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January 24, 2009
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stuge123 said:
i kinda can follow what u guys are talking bout... some pictures or videos would be most helpful. Thanks.
Ok, here's what I do with each used DW I bring home...cleaning after each range trip isn't quite as in-depth, but it's close.
This is my 7445 during it's first 24 hours at home.
My post-range day cleaning ritual goes like this;
1) make sure it's unloaded.
2) remove the grip...I'd rather not find out the hard way if any gun cleaning solvents will damage the grip surface.
I'm running out of posting time tonight, so I'll be back later to edit this & add more...
September 17, 2010
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wow man, thanks for the pics. do you need any special tools to take em apart like that? thanks.
October 26, 2008
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No, allen wrench and a flat blade screwdriver is all you need
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January 24, 2009
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superdan said:
No, allen wrench and a flat blade screwdriver is all you need
And a barrel wrench, don't leave out that handy tool.
stuge123 , click on the "Custom Barrel Wrench" pic at the upper right of this screen. Those wrenches are made in-house by one of our awesome members here & are available to forum members at a discounted rate. I've got four of EWK's wrenches so far & have nothing but praise for the quality craftsmanship that has gone into making these. 
BTW, this comes from a guy who has "tested" many brands of automotive & industrial tools through the years & can easily spot crap/junk/garbage tools when I see 'em...usually from 10 feet away. I've found EWK's barrel wrenches to be top notch in every sense, you won't be disappointed.
October 26, 2008
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Charger Fan said:
And a barrel wrench, don't leave out that handy tool.
Sorry, You'll need one of them too (if you don't already have one), if you are taking apart a 15 or something with a sideplate a wood handled hammer would be very beneficial too. You missed that one CF
November 13, 2009
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You guys are brave, I've always had a strict "no disassembly" policy on revolvers. Way too many springs and small parts for my comfort.
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Dans Club
February 22, 2009
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ITs actually not that bad. I take pictures as I go to ensure re-assembly goes smoothly. Just follow the instruction on this site and it will go well. If you get stuck, there are a ton of folks who have lots of experience, so go ahead and take the plunge. The Dan will appreciate it.
Technically, the glass is always full; half liquid, half air....
January 8, 2011
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When I was a kid my dad always made me clean my shotgun when I got home from a hunt. I have actually passed up shots at rabbits so I wouldn't have to clean it. I don't like to wash cars, wash horses, wash motorcycles, etc and I don't like to clean guns........... But I always do it........ I just don't like to. It's not my thing.
February 11, 2010
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falar said:
You guys are brave, I've always had a strict "no disassembly" policy on revolvers. Way too many springs and small parts for my comfort.
It's not as bad as an automatic transmission 
Looks more than it really is.
If you look at CF's first pic, take out the barrel stuff, the crane/yoke and the
side plate, your really only dealing with a half dozen or so parts.
Shake off the jitters and get in there, you'll be glad you did.
-Blacktop
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January 24, 2009
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Blacktop said:
It's not as bad as an automatic transmission
Depends on which one...a 904 & 727 torqueflite aren't bad at all...but a 700R4 is a pain in the butt!
A C6 is pretty decent too, once you know your way around.
Blacktop's right though, DW's are actually pretty simple inside. 10 time more simple to take apart than a Smith! 
And this barrel isn't even unscrewed yet!
Smiff 18-3 for example...
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Dans Club
February 22, 2009
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Everytime I put my Smif together, I have extra parts....
Technically, the glass is always full; half liquid, half air....
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January 24, 2009
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rwsem said:
Everytime I put my Smif together, I have extra parts....
LMAO!
January 5, 2011
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So I figured this would be a pretty good place for my question/problem...
I just picked up a 14-2 tonight and wanted to give her a thorough cleaning before I posted pics... and I can't get the side plate off. I tried pulling the side plate off, and then I tried vibrating it off with a nylon hammer, with no success. What am I missing here?
"The true meaning of life is to plant trees, under whose shade you do not expect to sit." - Nelson Henderson
May 17, 2010
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hmmm not sure what could the problem... on my "shooter" I do this:
- Remove the grip
- Remove the lower plate screw (this is the longer one)
- Remove the upper plate screw (this is the short one)
- Cock the gun ( yeah check for ammo first)
- place a small bladed screwdriver in through the hammer and twist on the hammer down deep inisde. be careful NOT to twist on the top of the plate where the hammer travels.. it will mar very easy
- this will loosen it from the back near the hammer/grip area
- DO NOT DIG AROUND in there while prying
- use a wood popsicle stick or the wifes cuticle pusher to finish prying
(stop laughing SHOOT)
Reassembly:
Same process but no prying required. (duh)
I do use a dental pick to push/hold the transfer plate back in place, after starting the side plate.
(I also use the dental pick to remove the C-clip that holds the crane in place)
Soap Box, Ballot Box, Ammo Box
in that order.
4 Monson Model 15's
1 Palmer FB 15
1 Rossi 357 Model 92 (lever)
1 CZ 75B
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