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January 5, 2011
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Thanks for the help, that did the trick! Glad I opened it up, she was a bit dirty and gunked up. Nothing too bad, but a full cleaning should still help some.
"The true meaning of life is to plant trees, under whose shade you do not expect to sit." - Nelson Henderson
October 27, 2010
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I have a quick question:
What do you prefer to use to lube the parts inside the sideplate?
I use Hoppe's on the barrel of my guns and then CLP on the slides, but when I use it in the DW you can hear a gritty sound when dryfiring.
October 26, 2008
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dustbusterplus said:
I have a quick question:
What do you prefer to use to lube the parts inside the sideplate?
I use lubriplate #105 Engine assembly grease or John Deere engine assembly grease (they're about the same) you don't need much just a little on the DA strut and the area that the hammer travels on for SA cocking. The grease that I use is awesome and makes everthing just glide but it is not a situation where "less is good, more is better" don't overdo it.
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Dans Club
February 22, 2009
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I use grease on anything that slides; lubriplate is very good, choke tube grease will work too.
Oil on anything that rotates; Dextron ATF is very good, rem-oil will work too.
Keep the sear dry.
Technically, the glass is always full; half liquid, half air....
January 24, 2011
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I am having a problem with the cylinder rotating on my 357 model 15. The cylinder is very stiff between the crane and the cylinder. So stiff that it will not rotate. What type lubricant should I use, if any. I can clean and the revolver will dry fire fine, but when I shoot it the area will stiffen very quickly. I am shooting wadcutter and semi-wadcutter reloads. Powders I am using are light loads of 700X and Bullseye.
January 24, 2011
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I just cleaned the parts with W-W Breakfree and swabbed clean with cotton swabs. Then I applied some Liquid Wrench Lubricant and wiped off as much as I can. Weather permitting I'll try shooting again. But what is the best lubricant to use on the rotating assembly for the cylinder?
May 3, 2011
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The last DW I bought looked pretty dirty. I used carb cleaner with the tiny straw. I sprayed every crook, cranny and hole on it to wash out any powder and old oil or grease. Then I sprayed WD-40 with the straw to flush out the carb cleaner. Then I blew it off and dried it off good. Then I put oil on it to lubricate it. I would only use carb cleaner on a used gun like that to clean it the first time. I used a 12 gauge brush for the shroud too and cleaned the cylinders etc. The pistol was very tight.
Anyone know why you shouldn't use a carb cleaner? I wouldn't use it on a gun that had real nice bluing on it.
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Range Officers
May 2, 2009
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brake / Carb cleaners vary---believe me, I know 
...
I have one can out in the garage--yellow label on it, don't know what brand--it will strip blue instantly !!!
I've used all kinds of brake cleaners on gummed up guns, most of them are fine, but you never know...
SHOOT
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January 24, 2009
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With blued guns, I try to keep carb cleaner off the exterior surfaces as much as possible. I don't want to risk damaging the shine. Brake cleaner (or electrical cleaner) is usually less caustic, but I still try to keep it off the shiny stuff.
Once you have the hard, crusty gunk removed from a new acquisition, you probably won't need to use carb cleaner much after that...if at all. Normal gun cleaner should be fine for cleaning duties.
Now with stainless, it doesn't matter. I hose down everything, in & out...except the sights & never any grips. Stainless comes really clean with carb cleaner.
September 19, 2011
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Speaking of brake cleaner... I rebuilt the brakes on my pickup this weekend. When I was picking up stuff for the rebuild I noticed there was 2 kinds of brake cleaner... chlorine and non-chlorine. I wonder if one or the other would be better for firearms? By that I wonder what's in there to take chlorines place...? ...it could be worse!
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January 24, 2009
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The non-chlorinated stuff is supposed to be more eco-friendly, and from what I've seen, tends to not work as well for it's intended purpose (brakes). I know, big shocker there.
I'm too set in my ways, so I steer away from the new fangled crap as much as possible. I haven't tried the new stuff personally on a blued gun, but judging how much more wimpy the stuff was that I tried, it may not have much of an affect on bluing, don't know.
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Range Officers
May 2, 2009
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I've got some spare shrouds I can put to the test...
I'll get a non-chlorinated, a chlorinated, carb cleaner, etc and give each of them a try.
SHOOT
September 19, 2011
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I' ve used Gumout carb cleaner on some of my rifles (AR, primarily) but I don't think I've used it on a blued pistol before. It does strip everything away from the metal, and will sometimes leave a whitish residue.
Birchwood Casey (I think) makes a product called Gunscrubber that is very similar... an aerosol cleaner/degreaser that is supposed to be safe for firearm finishes. It's not as cheap as carb cleaner, as you would imagine...
October 24, 2011
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newbe question here.. my biggest concerns with total DW break down is the threads.. scares the living Heck out of me to booger one up.(if i had a tap and die i might feel safer) Anyone ever explored the idea of putting them in a ultra sonic cleaner for 10-15min for a "touch free" cleaning?
October 24, 2011
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NEVER EVER use chlorinated cleaners to clean your barrels!!! if you see either
1,1,1-trichlorethane,TCE, and carbon tetrachloride throw it in the garbage! QUICK!
I have totally ruined a $700 match grade 1911 barrel. Every month my groups keep getting larger and larger.. Started out from the factory shooting .9inch three shot groups at 50 yards. When i retired the barrel i couldnt even hit the tombstone at 50 yards = (
http://www.schuemann.com/Information/tabid/67/Default.aspx
click on "barrel cleaning"
September 19, 2011
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My Personal Practice
has become to never clean the bore of my barrels. I do use a brass rod
to scrape the deposits out of the chamber. But, I've learned to leave the bore alone and it very
slowly becomes shinier and cleaner all by itself. Years ago I occasionally scrubbed the bore with
a brass bore brush. But, doing so always seemed to cause the bore to revert to a dirtier look with
more shooting, so I eventually stopped ever putting anything down the bore except bullets...
Beladran, this is copied from the last paragraph of his premise... I have never heard of not cleaning a barrel... AT ALL! Seems a bit extreme but in the other direction (over-cleaning as opposed to not cleaning at all.) Much of what he was talking about was stainless barrels as well, but very interesting nontheless.
I have thrown out all my stainless brushes, though....
October 24, 2011
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it does seem extreme.. that last part always gets folks.. but hey the man knows his barrels, and makes some of the greatest 1911 barrels out there. if he says run ice cream through it i probably would lol I had to switch from jacketed bullets to oversized lead = ( .453 wasnt getting it, it helped but still 4inchs at 50 yards off a rest aint exceptable/competitive. Although it was plenty accurate enough for USPSA matchs and a guy that shoots it became a proud new owner of that barrel for a CHEAP price.
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January 24, 2009
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The idea of never cleaning your barrel bore is one guy's opinion, I suppose. To each his own. That guy would probably freak out if he saw my idea of a clean gun...mine always get a good scrubbing after every trip to the range.
Oh no!
October 24, 2011
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a good scrubing aint bad in my book.. i guess its more about what your scrubing with
November 23, 2011
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| The following is the result of a two year test: The following is a report on gun cleaning solvents I have tried. The testing is at best is subjective. I conducted the testing by shooting the firearm and selecting a new cleaner which was looked at for ease of use and thoroughness. I put this out as a guide for our members which may save them time and money. Tested Products: Supplies tested:
What I found out is M-Pro 7 is excellent for removing carbon fouling. Very Good is Hoppe's Elite and Slip 2000. Tipton TRBS is the best for removing badly fouled bores. Very Good is Sharp Shoot R Wipe Out and Prolix. For most of us the Sharp Shoot R Wipe Out will be the go to product for its ease of use and performance. Looks like shaving cream, Just spray in bore and let it work over night. Run a few patches through and your done. For bores which are fouled with lead and have not been cleaned sense TR was president. The Tipton product is the way to go. A word of caution Tipton TRBS has the most health warnings and I am a little put of by them. So members lets hear your thoughts. Did I miss one of your favorite cleaners. Is there something else you would have liked included in the test? I hope you fine this helpful. At a time when each week there seams to be more products on the market it is time consuming to find what is truly best. I will update this post as I try new products that work. R S
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