Supporter
Moderators
Dans Club
February 22, 2009
No need to weld- use stainless plug screws and once they're bottomed out, or set with locktite, peen the tops down, then use a file to bring them down to correct height. Use masking tape to protect the area around the screws. Once you've got the screws filed down, bead blast with 80 grit glass or aluminum oxide. Here's a picture of one that I'm working on. Front screw is nearly complete, middle has been peened and filed a bit, the rear I need to pull out and start over. Once I peened it down, it is below flush with the top strap.
Technically, the glass is always full; half liquid, half air....
Range Officer
Range Officers
Dans Club
February 28, 2009
rwsem said
No need to weld- use stainless plug screws and once they're bottomed out, or set with locktite, peen the tops down, then use a file to bring them down to correct height. Use masking tape to protect the area around the screws. Once you've got the screws filed down, bead blast with 80 grit glass or aluminum oxide. Here's a picture of one that I'm working on. Front screw is nearly complete, middle has been peened and filed a bit, the rear I need to pull out and start over. Once I peened it down, it is below flush with the top strap.
Ron:
That's just plain brilliant!
-Mike
Supporter
Moderators
Dans Club
February 22, 2009
Thanks, Mike. It's an older practice from BM (before Mig).
The only caution I would mention is that if you are doing this on a rib- ensure you fill the vented area with something solid before peening the top of the screw. I'm doing this to a buggered top strap on a 740 that Shoot tried to warn me about having a poor tap job but I "had to have it". I traded a 454 that I couldn't get to shoot well so -good trade IMO. This one is now "extra" since I've bought another 740 in vg condition.
Technically, the glass is always full; half liquid, half air....
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