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May 11, 2012
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Hey guys I just started loading for my 15-2 useing some 357 Federal and R&P brass that I had shot. The load is 16.5 of h110 under a 158 gr xtp with a firm crimp and a cci 550 primer. I loaded about 25 and shot them. They all went bang and accuracy was probably as good as I am able to shoot a revolver. I had some brass that was a little "sticky" and some dropped right out, even with factory loads I have some issues of sticky brass....
Yesterday I was inspecting the recenty shot brass and some seemed to have flattened primers, with more investigation I noticed that all of the federal brass had some primer flattening issues and none of the R&P brass did.
Upon futher investigation I noticed tge brass from the factory loads showed the same trend...flattened primers on factory federal loaded brass.
Why would this be? I understand that you want to load H110 towards the max end and I am 0.2-0.5 grains under what my books say is the max.
Am I to hot? Should I chunk the federal brass? Any thoughts? Thanks fellas
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Dans Club
February 22, 2009
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Without pictures, it's tough to say. Is there evidence of flow back into the firing pin hole? Flat primers and sticking brass is just an indicator. It could also be that brass is softer and the primer holes are bigger, so again- it's tough to say. A good rule of thumb when finding "max" loads is to use the same components each time and not mix headstamps/ bullets/ primers.
I always start about 10% below max published load and work up. On a 17 gr. published max load, I'd personally start at 15.5 gr. and work up. That's just me but it has kept everything safe for many years.
BTW- I rarely find that the max load is the most accurate…. my $.02
The pic has been my most accurate .357 load since the late 90's. Hard recoil and a proven game taker.
Best Regards, Ron
Technically, the glass is always full; half liquid, half air....
November 23, 2011
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A picture of your brass would be helpful. Hard to tell from you description. Running you loads over a Chronograph is the best way to know if you are having hot loads. R S
May 11, 2012
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RWSEM I am on my phone internet at my house my only real computer/full internet is at the office. I cant post a pic from my phone but if you could pm me your email I could send pics that way.
Thats a nice group there! Thes best I have done is about and 1.25-1.5 inchs at 25 yds....I claim user error
May 11, 2012
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Likewise I will send pics to you Rodslinger, I wish I had a chrony....need to buy one
April 25, 2008
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Federal primers cups are softer than Remington and CCI primers, so that would explain the more flattened primer appearance in the Federal factory ammo. I've always liked Federal brass, it is some of the most consistent stuff around.
The Savantist
February 21, 2011
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My experience has been similar to yours. I had sticky cases with mild loads, but primers were fine, I've also had flattened primers without sticky cases. I think the clue isn't so much the appearance of the primer alone, but has the appearance changed from other non problem loads using the same components?
CCI 550's are very hard, I had ignition problems with them, they never showed flattening, even with loads that were stuck tight. Winchester WSPM are much softer & cured ignition problems, but showed more flattening with the same load.
Factory Hornady loads had whatever brand of primer they use so flattened I waas seriously concerned, based on how both CCI 550 & WSPM primers appeared, but the cases extracted flawlessly & there were no other problems. This leads me to be less inclined to use flattened primers as a reliable pressure indicator in .357 Mag ammo compared to rifle ammo where it seems to work reliably. It also shows the primer brand & type is effected far more than in rifle cases as well.
I''d say that if you are having both sticky extraction & flattened primers it's certainly cause for concern, but I'd test by substituting components before condemning the load.
Matthew Quigley on handguns:
“I said I never had much use for one. Never said
I didn't know how to use it.”
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