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January 24, 2009
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So far, I've only reloaded 'factory brass' in .38, .357, 44 brass, and have come to one conclusion...
...
...the single largest pain in-da-butt with factory brass is square primer pockets. The "square" pare I'm referring to, is the edges of the brass surrounding the primers. It looks tight & neat when you're looking at the loaded ammo, but when it comes to punching in nre primers, can be a pain in the hand priming tool!
The primers often get caught on the edges of the brass & flip sideways before it's too late.
Other brass is beveled at the outer edges & lends itself to flawless re-priming. Here's some (fuzzy) pics. The two on the left...PMC & R-P in this case have beveled edges, compared to the squared edges of the Hornady and S&B (Sellier&Bellot...Czech ammo) cases.
In addition, Hornady seems to have a shorter OAL (Overall Length) of their brass than most any other companies, making crimping an extra step with these guys.
The length difference is sorta visible here, sorry for the out of focus pic.
My Hornady brass is gonna be left in the dirt on my next range day, .44 brass is no better. I've already buggered up 7 or 8 new primers thanks to this crap.
March 25, 2008
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thanks! never used hornady brass try to stick with w-w and r-p and star appreciate the input. thats what makes being in the forum worth wild. along with other reasons!
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Dans Club
February 9, 2009
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The only Hornady brass I reload to date is the 475Linebaugh, because nobody else makes it other than Buffalo Bore. I did not have any trouble with that caliber, but then I don't mass produce those either. I primarily have R-P and Starline otherwise and they work great.
A man cannot have too many SuperMags
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November 17, 2008
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Interesting, never used Hornady brass but I do have a bunch of military brass that was crimped at the primer and it has to be chamfered before re-use. I simply chuck a countersink or chamfer router bit in the drill press at a slow speed and touch the primer pocket to the spinning cutter. Works like a charm, just be careful not to over do it. It's your choice but why waste good brass. Just my 2 cents worth.
LB
Wisdom is merely the realization of how little one knows, therefore I am wise.
Dans Club
May 17, 2009
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I've had that problem also and used my de-burring tool to put a slight bevel on the primer pocket edge. I also swag the pockets on all my .223 rem cases. Just a thought.
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January 24, 2009
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That's a good idea you guys, I hadn't thought of using my de-burring tool on it.
LB, I'm ashamed to say that I don't own a router just yet.
That only leaves one pesky problem...the short case issue. The cases are just short enough, to not hit the crimp bevel in the die. I have to set the Hornady's aside, lower the die & run them through again, if I want a crimp on them. It's not difficult, just more of an annoyance that bugs me.
July 21, 2010
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Trim all your cases to match the shorter ones. One setting for seat and crimp.
btw, I've noticed the r-p cases are much lighter and thinner than the other "major brands". My favorites are the old ww mil stuff.
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