July 10, 2012
Gearing up to load some 375 Super Mag rounds, getting all my stuff together and doing some research before I actually start.
Thanks to another member on here, I started my supplies with a Redding 3-die set. I then added a Redding Form & Trim Die, along with an extended shell-holder. I plan on trimming down 375 Winchester brass to use for these rounds.
For priming, I went with a Lyman Ram Prime Die, and a standard shell-holder for when I use that.
Brass will be some once-fired 375 Winchester. I scored 134 pieces from another forum for a great price, and he even decapped, ultra-sonic cleaned, and tumble-polished the brass for me. I went through all the brass, and all have the same head-stamp.
For the press, I am going to go with a Lyman Crusher II, for now as it will be my first press. Due to my low volume reloading, it will be fine for me. I also kinda prefer it due to the simplicity and the lack of things to go wrong.
I still need to get some powder, primers, and bullets. Been trying to find the Hornady 220 grain flat-point bullets, but everybody seems to be out of them.
Here's a couple pics of the stuff I've gathered so far:
I also started this thread to ask for any tips, pointers, or suggestions for when I start loading. These rounds I will not be crankin' out, and I will be paying close attention and trying to make everything as uniform and consistent as I can.
I do have some older load data from the Hornady original loads, as well as what I've found on "Handloads dot com", but if anybody has any "favorite loads", please feel free to share them.
Thanks so much!
And Only Time Will Tell The Ending When The Ink Runs Dry...
March 20, 2013
By the time you get 'em loaded the weather should be just right for shooting 'em.
Sorry I can't help with the load data on that one. Good luck!
Coop
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December 4, 2011
I'll have to look up some load data in some old books. I can tell you that the gun likes the faster rounds so I favor the upper end of the rate scale for accuracy. Not crazy loads, but the upper 1/3 of the published data.
Also, be sure to lube the cases as they are tapered and the dies aren't carbide.
Other than that, have fun!
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March 2, 2008
I think you've got a pretty good plan on this, take it low and slow. Much easier to actually figure out what works and what doesn't. Single stage press is really a great way to start out as well. I have a Lee Classic Turret press, and I have not yet run it in "indexing" mode, I think I like being more in touch with every step of the process.
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November 23, 2008
Greetings
Last corn cruncher I popped with a reveolver was with my 375 SM DW. I only shoot my own cast and generally in the 250 grain area. I have found 1680 to be my best powder so far. Started with 1680 and it worked so well never got into the others. I am sure 296 or 110 would be good also as I have loaded lots of 41 Mag with them. Will try 4227 some day as it works well in these cartriges.
If you do some google searches you will find numerous articles with load info.
Generally I have found with 1680 that 22 grains is a good starting area and about 28 grains things are about max. Your chambers will be different from mine so watch for pressure signs. Pressure will rise faster with jacketed items. Lead is soft and forms much more easily to throats and rifling.
I set all my barrels with as little gap as possible. .001 or .0015. I clean cylinder faces as needed.
You will find the 375 SM is capable of doing what the old 38-55 could. You will see about the same velocities and will get about the same results. Fine cartridge to hunt with. Is a good step up from the 357 SM. Only thing better is the 414 SM ! Well I guess the 445 SM also. Sadly we never got a 455 SM ...
Mike in Peru
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January 24, 2009
SCORPIO said
Also, be sure to lube the cases as they are tapered and the dies aren't carbide.
Yes, use lube more liberally than you do on other cartridges, these tapered cases like plenty of lube.
My favorite load is 220gr Hornady FP's, 20gr 4227 powder, with 350 CCI primers. That load works awesome in both my DW & Seville.
July 10, 2012
Thanks for all the replies so far guys!
Looks like I'm also gonna be getting 100 pieces of 375 Super-Mag brass to add to the pile of stuff, putting me at 234 rounds once I get them all loaded. Should last a little while.
I compared the trim die tonight to the 375 Win brass, didnt realize just how much had to come off lol.
Looking forward to this and rolling my own ammo.
And Only Time Will Tell The Ending When The Ink Runs Dry...
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January 24, 2009
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February 22, 2009
Have fun with that project, I do!
https://www.danwessonforum.com/forum/reloading/375-sm-brass-forming/
Technically, the glass is always full; half liquid, half air....
July 10, 2012
Charger Fan said
Yeah, the .375 Win brass is just a tad bit longer.Show us some of your loads when you get 'em done!
Will do for sure. Just found some more 375 Winchester brass too that I'm gonna scoop up, can't hurt to have too much. Got roughly 550 pieces of NEW, unprimed brass coming to add to the lot, bringing my total up to ~684 375 Winchester, and 100 375 SM.
Having trouble finding the 220 grain FP bullets from Hornady though.
EDIT:
Just got a box of 100 off Gun Broker for... $28 shipped! And... I will be getting my press tomorrow too! YEAH
And Only Time Will Tell The Ending When The Ink Runs Dry...
July 10, 2012
Trial run complete!
Set up the press and did one case tonight to test the waters and see what works and what doesn't. To trim the case, I tried using the trim die. I put a thin washer over the trim die and used a hack-saw blade to cut off the bulk, removed the washer, and then filed the remaining. After a little deburring, it came out great. Sent the case through the size die, and then measured the case. Came out 1.602 long after full-length sizing. When I trimmed the case, I put the shell-holder against the trim die, so in theory, the shortest it can go without modification. I could potentially set a small gap to get closer to 1.610, but I may have an issue with the chambers if I run too long.
Next step was to run the trimmed case through the expander die. This one was rather simple and straightforward, however I need you guy's input on this one. I think I set the expander down enough to give me enough flare, but I'm not sure. I didn't flare it to the second step, the one meant for cast bullets. I only did the expanding and then first flare for jacketed bullets (since I will be using jacketed rounds). Does this look enough?
Unfortunately, I don't have bullets yet (they are on their way), so once I get them, I'm sure I can just test them and see if I have enough or not.
Things I've learned thus far:
- Trimming will be a major PITA, at least the way I'm doing it. I'm sure a better file and hack-saw blade would help allot, as the ones I had were kinda beat and just what I had on-hand at the time.
- Once the die is set, sizing and expanding are super easy and should go quick.
- Lube, as you guy said, will be a must since it is such a long thick shell. Don't want to get one of these bad-boys stuck.
And Only Time Will Tell The Ending When The Ink Runs Dry...
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Looks good, I'm going to try a Dremel with a cut off disk when I do mine. I like rwsem's method of the tubing cutter, I'm going to try that as well.
As to flare, just enough to get the bullet in comfortably, don't over do it. What is pictured should be close.
Anything worth doing is worth doing well.
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January 24, 2009
July 10, 2012
Thanks guys, as the pieces come together, it is getting more and more exciting. However, not really looking forward to trimming the 700 pieces of 375 Win brass lol.
I did hit the local Lowes and got a new hack-saw, blades, and a new mill file. I saw on another forum that a guy used this style hacksaw and said it worked well, rather than use the full "hoop" style. Thought I would give it a try.
I also got some different blades. The one with the saw is a regular, "multipurpose" blade. I found some with a greater amount of teeth-per-inch, that was labeled for thin-wall metal. I'm hoping that between the easier style hack-saw, and better blades, I should fly through the trimming.
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February 22, 2009
One essential piece of reloading equipment is a case trimmer- I've had an RCBS for more than 20 years. You don't need them often, but when you do, they make life a lot easier. Much simpler to use than a trim die and file.
Technically, the glass is always full; half liquid, half air....
July 10, 2012
Got all the brass in, and damn I have my work cut out for me LOL.
Has anybody tried using cast bullets for the 375 SM? I would think that they would work, but the longer length would reduce powder volume, and may cause isues. That and I'm not sure how long the "nose" is, so it may lead to a OAL that won't fit the cylinder.
Also, on a cast bullet, would you need to run a gas-check style bullet because of the higher velocities / pressures? Or are regular base bullets okay?
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February 22, 2009
I have all the dimensional information for cast bullets- I just need to get it from home (see below). I cast for the 375 SM and had LBT make my mould (377 225 LFN). Yes- you should run GCs or you MAY have issues at the higher pressures with leading; leading depends on many other factors. Before you order a mould or use Cast Bullets, measure the dimensions of your cylinder throats with a pin guage set to ensure you get the proper fit.
Start Reading Here: http://www.lasc.us/IndexBrennan.htm
.830 OAL, .485" from cannelure to nose
Regards,
Ron
Technically, the glass is always full; half liquid, half air....
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