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February 22, 2009
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For gmann who posted this on the Firing Range:
Not sure how to post on this forum yet, but I have a dan wesson .357. When I shoot, whether .38 or .357 rounds, occasionally a spent cartridge will move back in the chamber enough to prevent the action from moving. Is this common? Can it be fixed? Is it dangerous to shoot? If I should be asking this elsewhere, please direct the noob.
Technically, the glass is always full; half liquid, half air....
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February 22, 2009
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I would guess maybe the problem is at the other end: barrel gap may be too tight and once it heats up, a proud chamber binds on the barrel.
Technically, the glass is always full; half liquid, half air....
May 2, 2014
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rwsem said
I would guess maybe the problem is at the other end: barrel gap may be too tight and once it heats up, a proud chamber binds on the barrel.
Interesting. I haven't shot the gun in a year or so and that may be it. But I remembering pushing the cartridge back into the cylinder and thinking that solved the issue each time. Either way, is there a fix? Is it dangerous to shoot?
May 2, 2014
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gmann said
rwsem said
I would guess maybe the problem is at the other end: barrel gap may be too tight and once it heats up, a proud chamber binds on the barrel.Interesting. I haven't shot the gun in a year or so and that may be it. But I remembering pushing the cartridge back into the cylinder and thinking that solved the issue each time. Either way, is there a fix? Is it dangerous to shoot?
Oh, and thanks for the help.
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February 22, 2009
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Here's where I would start: Gun IS EMPTY! Check to make sure it it EMPTY..
Cycle the revolver while holding the frame in front of good light to observe the barrel-cylinder gap. The closest it should be is about .003"-.004" for reliable firing with a hot cylinder. On the tightest chamber- loosen the barrel nut and back the barrel out until you get the correct gap. The tool that comes with the DW is .006". Tighten the barrel nut then go fire a few cylinders full to see if that was the issue.
Hope that does it. Oh- and you are welcome!
Technically, the glass is always full; half liquid, half air....
May 2, 2014
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rwsem said
Here's where I would start: Gun IS EMPTY! Check to make sure it it EMPTY..Cycle the revolver while holding the frame in front of good light to observe the barrel-cylinder gap. The closest it should be is about .003"-.004" for reliable firing with a hot cylinder. On the tightest chamber- loosen the barrel nut and back the barrel out until you get the correct gap. The tool that comes with the DW is .006". Tighten the barrel nut then go fire a few cylinders full to see if that was the issue.
Hope that does it. Oh- and you are welcome!
I can't see light through a few of the chambers. I inherited the gun and only got the gun, no extra barrels or tools. It looks like the wrenches and gauge I need are in the store here, so I'll buy those. I also wanted to run the serial number and see when the gun was made. I can't seem to find where to do that. Any chance someone could leave me a link.
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February 22, 2009
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Serial number listings and a ton of other great stuff is in the Supporter's section.
Technically, the glass is always full; half liquid, half air....
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March 25, 2013
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Welcome Gmann to the forum. Your in good hands with Ron advising you. Do not shoot the gun till you get a barrel tool. Probably safe but not good for the gun. EWK Arms sells one of the best tools. A set of allen wrenches from the hardware store and feeler gauges from the auto parts store will serve you better than a factory tool.
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