DWF Supporters
November 11, 2022
I have had this 15-2 for only a couple of days. I am waiting on tools and parts from EWK, before I really open it up and see what I am dealing with. But, I have been thinking ALOT about what to do about the blueing/finish on it, if everything checks out okay with it. This 15-2 is replacing a Ruger GP100 I got rid of years ago and immediately regretted. I would MUCH rather have the DW over the Ruger, so I want to make this one special. I used to do alot of handgun hunting and this 15-2 will be used for that, as well as everything else. I can tell this revolver was in and out of a holster quite a bit. Blueing is rubbed in normal spots for that. I actually wonder if it was a duty gun in the 80's. I am leaning in two directions with refinishing this revolver. Leave it as is, keep her clean, and not worry about the blueing as much, OR, have it Cerakoted in a custom color scheme. One color one the frame and barrel shroud, and a different, slightly offset color on the cylinder and yoke. It will get new exotic wood grips, either way. I have the hands of a 4 year old girl and the huge target grips on it now are just to much. Anyway, has anyone here had their DW Cerakoted and what did you think of the end product? Is Cerakoting a DW revolver blasphemy, or acceptable? I do know that if this revolver is in good shape internally, I am not worried about resale value, or anything like that. I will never get rid of it. I have waited to long to own a DW. Thanks for your time, Y'all!!!
~ In my defense, I was left unattended....
DWF Supporters
July 12, 2020
It's your to do with what you want. That said the 15-2 is the most popular model made and they are plentiful, so I don't think doing one in Cerakote would have you shunned from the community, lol. If you do go that route it is worth investigating the applicators since they are all far from equal. I've seen/read the results of what happens with second rate Cerakote jobs. I would personally find someone who could get a DLC coating applied. Then you have the best of both worlds, looks like bluing but is very durable.
October 17, 2017
Maybe it’s just me, but I look at the attached photo and think; dang, that revolver is beautiful. I wish I had one just like it! Still, it is your revolver, so you are free to do with it what you like. There are soooo many options open to you, just try to get quality work. As for the grips; again there are many options to be found on eBay, but take a look at Hogue and Pachmayr as well.
DWF Supporters
November 11, 2022
I guess I should add. I would go with Cerakote because there is no other gun finish out right now, that has better corrosion resistance and self lubricity qualities. With all the internals that rub on the inside of the frame and sideplate, I see it as a big positive for functionality.
~ In my defense, I was left unattended....
August 8, 2016
BumeStik said
I guess I should add. I would go with Cerakote because there is no other gun finish out right now, that has better corrosion resistance and self lubricity qualities. With all the internals that rub on the inside of the frame and sideplate, I see it as a big positive for functionality.
Why not hard chrome?
DWF Supporters
November 11, 2022
Andrew1220 said
BumeStik said
I guess I should add. I would go with Cerakote because there is no other gun finish out right now, that has better corrosion resistance and self lubricity qualities. With all the internals that rub on the inside of the frame and sideplate, I see it as a big positive for functionality.
Why not hard chrome?
I mean nothing bad by it, but I have never been a fan of chrome, unless it was to line the barrel. I like dull, matte finishes, personally.
~ In my defense, I was left unattended....
December 14, 2022
First post here on the DW forum, although I've been on HKPro and quite a few others in the last couple decades. Anyway, I've never used Cerakote, but I have used Durablue (from Duracoat) to finish a revolver. Seeing as how Durablue used a GP100 in their ads, I figured that it should work well for a slightly rusted SW Highway Patrolman. I have a nice sandblast setup, and prepped/cleaned the old Smith beyond what Duracoat recommends. After application, I left the revolver alone for a month for the coating to completely cure. When I finally shot it, the blast from the barrel/cylinder gap removed the coating on the cylinder in short order. It just looked like crap after less than 20 rounds. Not saying that Cerakote would do the same, but it's something to think about before you remove the original finish of your revolver. I'd used Duracoat successfully many times before on semi-autos and rifles, so I was highly disappointed with the product's performance on my revolver. Best of luck, whatever you decide.
May You Never Walk Alone
Chrome is very hard and durible. All imperfections, show though so prep is advised. Get any barrel assemblies you want done at the same time. Nickel is nice but much less durable. I have a factory nickel model 14 porkchop that is so slick on the inside it has maybe the best trigger of any revolver I have. Including Pythons, Manurhins, Korths, Registered Magnums, and more. I have a hard Chromed 14-2 but the chrome altered the point of aim. It shoots low. Better than high though.
August 28, 2009
BumeStik said
Andrew1220 said
BumeStik said
I guess I should add. I would go with Cerakote because there is no other gun finish out right now, that has better corrosion resistance and self lubricity qualities. With all the internals that rub on the inside of the frame and sideplate, I see it as a big positive for functionality.
Why not hard chrome?
I mean nothing bad by it, but I have never been a fan of chrome, unless it was to line the barrel. I like dull, matte finishes, personally.
This may make you rethink a hard chrome finish. It's one of my favorite creations, and it's much more durable than Cerakote.
https://www.danwessonforum.com/forum/dan-wesson-small-frame-revolvers/22-pac-project-complete/
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