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November 9, 2013
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I want to ask the members here their advice, suggestions, or comments on which direction they would advise I go with this rusty revolver. I removed the shroud, barrel, and cylinder and let it soak for a week in PB Blaster and gave it a rub down afterwards. That helped some, but the gun still shows quite a bit of damage and pits on it. Should I continue down this path, using bronze wool, etc. and just keep trying? Or should I consider blasting it and Parkerizing or black oxide, or re-bluing? I don't want to drop a too much $ into it as it has a lot of wear, but I also don't like seeing the pits and spots where it was rusty.
Also, is it normal for the cylinder to rub the frame when opening and closing?
Thanks in advance for any advice offered!
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Dans Club
March 25, 2013
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I don't have a lot of knowledge but I do have lots of opinions. By the time you finish with it you will know a lot more. It screams shooter. No one will see it in the nightstand drawer or tackle box. First open her up and disassemble. Aside from small parts I would not spend a lot of money on it. Get it working good. replacing the recoil ball and spring may fix the rubbing. I'm assuming it's not rubbing on the forcing cone. Take your time and use the average joe tutorial. Soak and clean all parts and ask on the forum if your not sure. It's amazing how simple it is. Once it works well you can figure out the cosmetics.Polishing and cold blue is the economical way to go. Lot's of people should be checking in with more advice. I haven't seen a 14-1 with an insert in the front sight. Ole Dog
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June 25, 2013
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like Ole Dog say, fix the mechanicals, shoot it. Then the finish I would strip the blue and try a product called evaporust then create a satin finish and use a black oxide kit from Caswell.
Endeavor to persevere,
Press on regardless.
Need little, want less, love more.
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Dans Club
March 25, 2013
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Redondo, I didn't keep up with your prior post. I think your doing fine. Try repeated flitz and maybe white or gray scotchbrite on the rust. You don't have to worry about the finish since you want to put a new one on. Concentrate on reducing any scars.
When putting the gun back together, take care to not move the hand and dislodge the trigger return spring from the little ledge it rests on. Once the side plate is screwed on it holds the hand and spring in place.
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Range Officer
Range Officers
May 2, 2009
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It's beautiful !!!! Just give it a good scrubbing, and get it functioning properly. That will make a great trail gun/shooter. I've turned ones worse than that into real shooters before.
Everybody needs a true beater/shooter grade DW.
SHOOT
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Dans Club
February 22, 2009
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I agree w/ Shoot and have one just like it in my tackle box! Getting her running good, fire and forget. Well, give her a wipe of oil every now and then to keep the rust away.
Technically, the glass is always full; half liquid, half air....
November 9, 2013
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Yes, this will definitely be one for the trails, camping, and fishing. It's just when I login and see those beautiful perfect blued DW revolvers in the banner photos...oh well...guess the solution for that is to find and buy another.
I recently bought the EWK Arms barrel wrench and their other small tools/feeler gauge, and their Small Parts Kit. I found this video on youtube and because of it I'm willing to remove the side plate and disassemble the gun further, whereas I was hesitant before:
(Dan Wesson 357 revolver models 14/15 complete break down )
Once its disassembled, should I soak everything in #9 to remove any further gunk or residual PB Blaster from my week long PB soaking?
Oh...the cylinder rubbing...you can see the wear where I circled in red in the top photo. When I swing the cylinder open, there's a little movement on the arm and the end of the cylinder closest to the handle rubs on the frame. Is that normal?
Thanks guys, I really appreciate the advice and suggestions.
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Dans Club
February 22, 2009
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Just clean well, put together and call it good. Get a set of springs and that should be all you need. Put a drop of ATF on pivot points.
Technically, the glass is always full; half liquid, half air....
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Dans Club
March 25, 2013
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Definite diagnosis. Early onset DWAS! These cases progress swiftly and are severe.
Range Officer
Range Officers
Dans Club
February 28, 2009
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I'd hard chrome it.
JMO
-Mike
Dans Club
March 2, 2008
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There's a lot that can be done here:
1) Clean it up as best you can, do the Average Joe Tune Up with a spring change, and have a good shooter
2) Strip it down to bare steel and leave it as is. Keep it oiled and protected and a steel gun in the "white" would be very unique
3) Do #2 and refinish in any way you want with AlumaHyde
4) Do #2 and do a refinish, hard chrome was mentioned and would be a good choice, re-blue, or ???
OR, default to #1
I went to a bookstore and asked the saleswoman "Were is the Self Help Section?" She said if she told me, it would defeat the purpose.
George Carlin
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Range Officer
Range Officers
May 2, 2009
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read this 
... funny how the memory kicks in ....
https://www.danwessonforum.com/forum/general-messages/beater-14-2-oh-what-a-beater/
SHOOT
January 22, 2008
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Wow Shoot, I hope you left him a scathing feedback report.
Looks like it's time to practice on a bluing job. I've always wanted to try it. May have to pick up a beater myself to try it.
…he that hath no sword, let him sell his garment, and buy one. Luke 22:36 Life in a Jar: The Irena Sendler Project http://www.irenasendler.com/
USN-Vet, NRA, GOA, JPFO, SC-GRGR
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Dans Club
March 25, 2013
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Redondo,watched the video. He gets his parts mixed up. He calls the trigger return spring the hammer spring. There is no"hammer spring" . The main spring is in the "grip Tang" that the lg. side plate screw screws into to capture the mainspring. To remove the mainspring and guide hold down the spring with a cleaning rod(female end) while you remove the sideplate screw. Hold the cleaning rod firmly as you release the tension.The video author did not mention cleaning and polishing the parts, sideplate and frame. Replacing the springs with Wolff reduced power springs improves the action as does polishing.I recommend the 8lb spring instead of the 71/2 lb. to prevent FTF. The hardest part for me is slipping the side plate on while keeping the trigger return spring resting on the little ledge on the trigger and not pushing against the hand.
The Average Joe Tuneup pictoral is fabulous. It must be really good on the computer instead of my phone .
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