March 22, 2018
I was sure I could replace the rear sight on my model 715 myself, but I discovered it was more than I could handle. After trying umpteen times, I finally got the springs in place and the elevation screw in and as I was replacing the roll pin the whole thing popped out and all parts went flying(the elevation screw sheared off even with the frame). I'm still looking for the small parts, but I did find a source for the screw, springs and pin, I just need to find a local gunsmith that knows Dan Wesson revolvers to drill out the old screw.
Anyway, I just wanted get those in the know to tell me if I did something wrong or if this is a common occurrence when working on DW rear sights.
Thanks,
Garry
Over the years, I have found that when working on some projects, I put a old sheet on the biggest table I have and place some rare earth magnets at different places to grab any flying parts...gives me a edge sometimes. Watch out for bold blisters
If you're going to drink, don't drive. Don't even putt.
Dans Club
December 5, 2008
Garry,
Sorry about your experience. It can be tricky to remove & replace a rear sight. The first time is often very similar to your own experience. I think something did go wrong in your process, but I cannot say what since I was not watching you.
Take heart and do not give up. It gets easier and learning to do some of your own gunsmithing is very rewarding. Luckily, your Dan Wesson is an excellent gun to work on and learn your skills.
August 28, 2009
Sorry to hear about your mess there but I have a couple comments:
1) How in the world did you shear off the elevation screw? There's nothing in the removal or assembly process that requires enough force to shear a screw off.
2) The removal is pretty straight forward - remove the elevation screw to take the tension off the springs, and tap the roll pin out with a 1/16 ROLL PIN PUNCH. Don't use a flat pin punch - it's not the same as a roll pin punch. To re-install - use a little dab of grease under the sight to hold the springs in the bottom of the sight base. Place the sight on the frame, and insert the roll pin punch through the pin holes to hold the sight in place. Screw in the elevation screw, keeping the roll pin punch through the holes to keep the sight in place. Pull out the roll pin punch just enough to clear the side of the frame, and start tapping in the roll pin. Use a brass hammer so you don't damage the end of the roll pin. Keep tapping the roll pin into the frame and eventually tapping out the roll pin punch. When you get close to the point that the roll pin is all the way tapped in, use the roll pin punch to tap it in just under the surface of the frame.
Last comment - I don't think I'd trust a gunsmith to "drill out" the busted screw, unless they are a trained and experienced machinist, which most are not. I'd try and exhaust any and all alternatives before seeking out a gunsmith in the yellow pages.
March 22, 2018
DakotaJack said
Sorry to hear about your mess there but I have a couple comments:1) How in the world did you shear off the elevation screw? There's nothing in the removal or assembly process that requires enough force to shear a screw off.
2) The removal is pretty straight forward - remove the elevation screw to take the tension off the springs, and tap the roll pin out with a 1/16 ROLL PIN PUNCH. Don't use a flat pin punch - it's not the same as a roll pin punch. To re-install - use a little dab of grease under the sight to hold the springs in the bottom of the sight base. Place the sight on the frame, and insert the roll pin punch through the pin holes to hold the sight in place. Screw in the elevation screw, keeping the roll pin punch through the holes to keep the sight in place. Pull out the roll pin punch just enough to clear the side of the frame, and start tapping in the roll pin. Use a brass hammer so you don't damage the end of the roll pin. Keep tapping the roll pin into the frame and eventually tapping out the roll pin punch. When you get close to the point that the roll pin is all the way tapped in, use the roll pin punch to tap it in just under the surface of the frame.
Last comment - I don't think I'd trust a gunsmith to "drill out" the busted screw, unless they are a trained and experienced machinist, which most are not. I'd try and exhaust any and all alternatives before seeking out a gunsmith in the yellow pages.
1) I really don't know. As I said, I was tapping the roll pin back in and when it was about half way-BAM!! I did recover all parts with exception of the elevation screw head(don't really need it).
2) This is really good advice on using grease on the springs and using the punch to get the roll pin in. If I had done both of these things, I don't believe this would have happened.
I have a gunsmith who lives about 45 minutes from me that says he has removed many broken screws from firearms without damaging the threads, so I'm going to let him try.
Garry
Dans Club
December 5, 2008
August 28, 2009
photohause said
If you remove the cylinder, the gun is not non functional in the eyes of the ATF. You may now send it off to a qualified shop to rectify the problem. Maybe EWK Arms knows of someone???
photohause - careful here. Even if the gun in non-functional, the serialized frame is the "firearm" regardless if it's assembled, disassembled or a stripped frame. The receiving party cannot receive it via interstate shipment unless they hold an FFL license. Most gunsmiths do hold an FFL, but it cannot be shipped interstate to anyone other than an FFL holder. Within state does not require an FFL license.
DakotaJack said
photohause - careful here. Even if the gun in non-functional, the serialized frame is the "firearm" regardless if it's assembled, disassembled or a stripped frame. The receiving party cannot receive it via interstate shipment unless they hold an FFL license. Most gunsmiths do hold an FFL, but it cannot be shipped interstated to anyone other than an FFL holder. Withing state does not require an FFL license.
You are correct.
If you're going to drink, don't drive. Don't even putt.
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