August 11, 2010
I've never handloaded ammo before.
I have a 7445. I have large pistol primers, H110 powder, and Starline brass.
And I have 240 grain hard cast flat point bullets for which I have found no reloading data.
The data I've been able to find says 29-33 grains of H110 for 240 bullets--various other kinds of bullets, not hard cast FP.
I'm thinking it would okay to try 29 grains with these FPs. Does that sound reasonable?
JesusDillinger said:
I've never handloaded ammo before.
I have a 7445. I have large pistol primers, H110 powder, and Starline brass.
And I have 240 grain hard cast flat point bullets for which I have found no reloading data.
The data I've been able to find says 29-33 grains of H110 for 240 bullets–various other kinds of bullets, not hard cast FP.
I'm thinking it would okay to try 29 grains with these FPs. Does that sound reasonable?
Hi,
From a max pressure perspective you should be good, you might want to back off some and work up to be sure.
However:
From a velocity point of view, cast runs about 120FPS faster than a comparable jacketed load. The would put this at 1,760FPS. That's gas check territory.
At least verify with the bullet provider what velocity their lube will support. I'm speculating it's much less than 1,600 or 1,700 fps. But find out what they say.
Dan Wesson 15-2
Taurus 66SS6
Taurus M85BUL
Ruger 22/45
http://357shooter.blogspot.com/
Supporter
Moderators
January 24, 2009
Here's some SuperMag load info that John Taffin worked up, scroll to the bottom… LINK
Let us know how you make out.
Supporter
Moderators
January 24, 2009
DWF Supporters
Dans Club
Moderators
November 17, 2008
August 11, 2010
prgallo said:
Hi,
From a max pressure perspective you should be good, you might want to back off some and work up to be sure.
However:
From a velocity point of view, cast runs about 120FPS faster than a comparable jacketed load. The would put this at 1,760FPS. That's gas check territory.
At least verify with the bullet provider what velocity their lube will support. I'm speculating it's much less than 1,600 or 1,700 fps. But find out what they say.
Okay,
now I'm getting somewhere! Thank you for your answers.
I avoided jacketed bullets because I'd read that they are tough on
one's bore, and I bought the hard cast bullets because I'd read hard
cast didn't foul the bore at high velocities.
I'll ask the supplier whether their lube supports these
velocities. Is the lube question pertinent to the fouling issue?
Might one put some other lube on the bullets?
August 11, 2010
Charger Fan said:
Here's some SuperMag load info that John Taffin worked up, scroll to the bottom… LINK
Let us know how you make out.
Thank you. I hads a whole bunch of load data for the 445, but my machine crashed, and I lost almost all of it. Now I can't find hardly any data. I am totally miffed about this.
JesusDillinger said:
Okay,
now I'm getting somewhere! Thank you for your answers.
I avoided jacketed bullets because I'd read that they are tough on
one's bore, and I bought the hard cast bullets because I'd read hard
cast didn't foul the bore at high velocities.
I'll ask the supplier whether their lube supports these
velocities. Is the lube question pertinent to the fouling issue?
Might one put some other lube on the bullets?
The webpage for the supplier (if they have one) might give the max velocity that they recomend. If the lube gives up you will get leading. A coat of Lee Liquid Alox might work with high velocity. It's cheap and it's easy to boot, apply it over the existing lube & bullet.
You can always download a bit too. It's all a fine balance, with bullet fit being important too.
Take a look a their website and see if it says anything about velocity. If you post it I'll take a look too as I've had to search for this info before...
Dan Wesson 15-2
Taurus 66SS6
Taurus M85BUL
Ruger 22/45
http://357shooter.blogspot.com/
February 14, 2011
The lyman load data for 44 mag 240 hard cast H110 uses magnum primers. When I load 454 casull with H110 I use small rifle magnum primer also. I have only had partial ignition not using magnum primers for ball powder once. and I would err on the side of too much ingntion vs. too little. See if you can find some reputable info and see what primers they are using.
May 17, 2010
Soap Box, Ballot Box, Ammo Box
in that order.
4 Monson Model 15's
1 Palmer FB 15
1 Rossi 357 Model 92 (lever)
1 CZ 75B
Pinetor said:
I am thinking about trying these...
Is this still a 44 mag being discussed or did it change? Just checking. I think bullet recomendataions are different is why I ask.
Dan Wesson 15-2
Taurus 66SS6
Taurus M85BUL
Ruger 22/45
http://357shooter.blogspot.com/
August 11, 2010
greenwart said:
The lyman load data for 44 mag 240 hard cast H110 uses magnum primers. When I load 454 casull with H110 I use small rifle magnum primer also. I have only had partial ignition not using magnum primers for ball powder once. and I would err on the side of too much ingntion vs. too little. See if you can find some reputable info and see what primers they are using.
Could you post a link to the lyman load data?
Yes the original post was 44 supermag. Pineator posted about billybullets and he/she seemed to have 357 magnums. In which case I would say something different.
Should have just stuck with the OP, and my original response.
Dan Wesson 15-2
Taurus 66SS6
Taurus M85BUL
Ruger 22/45
http://357shooter.blogspot.com/
August 11, 2010
Charger Fan said:
Here's some SuperMag load info that John Taffin worked up, scroll to the bottom… LINK
Let us know how you make out.
I finally got around to actually shooting the ammo I made.
I made:
.44 Magnums:
a. 240 grain hard cast rounded flat point bullets sitting on 20 grains
of H110
b. 310 grain hard cast flat point bullets sitting on 25 grains of H110
and:
.445 supermags
a. 240 grain hard cast rounded flat points on 30 grains H110
b. 310 grain hard cast flat points on 30 grains H110
I and some friends went out and shot at some stuff, including a large rock from which a bullet bounced back, causing us all to become contemplative about our choices of targets.
After shooting, I went home and cleaned and examined the revolver. I can detect no sign that my handloads overstressed it. It doesn't look to me like there is any conspicuous lead build up in the bore, although really I can only barely see down there, even with a flashlight.
Here's another question, if I may ask. My 310 grain hard cast flat point bullets came with gas checks. I simply used pliers to peel those off, resulting in a bullet for which I had load data. I read that gas checks produce better velocities and leave the bore cleaner of lead build up, however they drastically increase pressures, especially for .44 magnums. Would it be unwise to try, say, 29 grains of H110 with a 310 grain bullet and leave the gas check on?
Supporter
Moderators
January 24, 2009
Regarding the gas check situation, I would do as all the wildcat reloaders always do...start a few steps under the normal low load specs & work your way up until they show signs of too much pressure, then back off a few grains. Just load maybe 6 at a time, in each increased increment & keep good notes as to which ones have which load in them.
And yeah, I wouldn't make a habit of shooting at large rocks.
Supporter
Moderators
Dans Club
February 22, 2009
Taking the gas check off will probably cause leading. It exposes the base of the bullet, which is no longer bore diameter (sealed like a plain base), to gasses which are trying to pass it. Inevitably it will eat away some of the lead (gas cutting) and deposit it somewhere along it's travel. This is one reason I determined not to use bevel-based bullets in higher pressure loads.
Most important to cast bullets in revolvers is first filling the cylinder throat and then the bore. Hard Cast bullets aren't really necessary. Too hard and they won't obturate completely and can cause leading; 14 bhn is about all that's needed in revolvers. 8-10 bhn will work for most applications, providing there's good lube.
Velocities over 1200 fps require a lot of experimentation, but bullet fit is most important.
I can go on and on; there's a lot more… but that's a start.
Technically, the glass is always full; half liquid, half air....
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