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November 23, 2011
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Let me start out by stating how helpful this post is.
I do have a problem that I need some help with. When reassembling my 44 Mag. I fell on my face trying to put the trigger group back in. While holding the trigger back and trying to get what Dan Wesson calls the connector, (I will call the transfer bar) in place the hand falls forward. If I get the hand in place the transfer bar jams in the hammer recess. Pull the trigger group out to clear the transfer bar and the hand falls forward. I repeated this more times than I will ever admit. The three times I did get the trigger group in place the bolt would not lock up the cylinder. Found this to be because the bolt spring fell under the recess of the bolt which caused the bolt to not raise into position. I have the gun together now. I learned a lot about the large frame Dan. Not any of it useful when I clean the gun again. I know I must be going about this the hard way but can't for the life of me see what I am doing wrong. Please put me on the right path. R S
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January 24, 2009
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It's an unfortunate reality that reassembling the large frame is more difficult than the small frame. The second time I reassembled my 7445, I think it took me 7 or 8 tries before it landed in the right spot, so I share your frustration.
In another thread, Harly recommended wrapping a piece of thread around the the transfer bar & hand, to keep them from moving around on you. I haven't tried the trick yet, but it does sound like it would work. I need to clean my 375 SM soon, and I plan on giving Harly's trick a try when I do.
February 11, 2010
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I got pretty good with using a small L shape allen wrench. Had to
dis-assembly re-assemble my model 40 a couple dozen times while fitting
a crane lock.
-Blacktop
November 23, 2011
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Thanks guys for the heads up. I hoped I was missing something with the assembly. R S
November 6, 2010
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landtoy80 said:
Reassembly tip: when trying to get the trigger assembly back in the
frame, pull the trigger and hold it all the way back, get the hand in
place in the frame, and from the top use a screwdriver to rock the
transfer bar into the guide in the frame as you slowly let the back of
the trigger guard down until the bar goes forward into the notch, then
rock the trigger guard into the notch on the front and latch it in the
rear. you should be able to pull the trigger and rotate the cylinder and
have the transfer bar come up into place, if it doesn't do that it's
not together correctly. it does take some time to get it your first
time, this is the hardest part of working on the large frames.
Thanks, landtoy80, your tutorial was invaluable to me today as I tore down my 741.
As you say reassembly is a challenge! I was able to work a system using a padded bench vice holding my frame upside down while I dropped the trigger assemble on from the top while guiding the arm and transfer bar into place from underneath with a brass punch.
Working on my small frame Dan's is fun, large frames are a pain! I only took apart my 741 because the trigger stop needed adjusting - too bad you can't screw the stop in or out without taking the whole thing apart!
Oh well, I had some "fun" and learned a thing or two in the process. My 741 works like a charm now that I have the trigger stop adjusted and back together!
April 25, 2008
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Once you have the gun apart, take the trigger stop out, reverse it, and re-install it. Then you can adjust it in the future without having to disassemble the gun.
The Savantist
February 11, 2010
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IHMSA80x80 said:
Once you have the gun apart, take the trigger stop out, reverse it, and re-install it. Then you can adjust it in the future without having to disassemble the gun.
Wow ! So simple yet overlooked 
Thanks for the tip IHMSA80x80.
-Blacktop
October 1, 2010
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Great guide.
What size pin punch do I use in step 3?
tia
"close isn't good enough" 
August 28, 2009
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It is a 1/16" punch. If you do a lot of them, you can buy a roll pin punch that has a special tip that will not damage or collapse the end of the roll pin.
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/WESTWARD-Roll-Pin-Punch-2AJF6
October 1, 2010
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thanks very much Harly
"close isn't good enough"
September 13, 2012
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Just wanted to say thanks for the thread, the pin on the hand broke and I wanted to do the work myself. It would have been tougher without this to guide. BTW the hand and pin are ordered from DW as one part but shipped as two. The pin is oversized and has to be pressed into the hole. You can see this in pic. #7, the lower hole in the hand is where the pin is pressed. My local smith did so for $25.00 .
March 25, 2008
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I just wanted to say thanks to all I've had to redo my crane lock as the old one was to thin an would allow the crane to hit the shroud when closeing so I made a thicker one and filed and ground down to fit. another su
cess story
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December 4, 2011
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44magvh, what is the pic in your signature?
Anything worth doing is worth doing well.
My father
If a man designed it, and a man built it, then a man can fix it.
My grandfather
October 1, 2010
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Hi Scorpio
That is my custom 2" extension that turns my 6" factory shroud into an 8". I've posted it a few times but only too proud to do again.
It's described & shown here
"close isn't good enough"
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December 4, 2011
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Very Kewl! Thanks for the link.
Anything worth doing is worth doing well.
My father
If a man designed it, and a man built it, then a man can fix it.
My grandfather
September 13, 2012
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I am in the process of reassembly of a large frame after having to replace the hand. (The hand pin broke.) I know I have something wrong, and can't seem to figure it out. With the trigger replaced the transfer bar and cylinder seem to work properly. With the cylinder open again the transfer bar is rising properly and the hand is extending. However with the cylinder closed there seems to be a catch in the last 1/4 of the trigger take up. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
September 13, 2012
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A follow up to my earlier post, upon examination the hand that I removed has a notch in the end where it contacts the crown of the crane to rotate it. The new part from DW is missing this. If possible could anyone with a 44 open the cylinder cock the hammer and closely examine the hand end for me and see if it resembles the part I removed in that it was notched?
Thanks in advance.
Gary
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January 24, 2009
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DW44VH said
A follow up to my earlier post, upon examination the hand that I removed has a notch in the end where it contacts the crown of the crane to rotate it. The new part from DW is missing this. If possible could anyone with a 44 open the cylinder cock the hammer and closely examine the hand end for me and see if it resembles the part I removed in that it was notched?
Mine has a slight notch cut into it on the side of the hand & just slightly over the top, I assume this is where you're talking about? Here's a fuzzy pic...
The depth of the notch is probably part of fitting the hand to a particular gun. I'm not positive on that, maybe some other members know for sure.
September 13, 2012
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I sent the question to Grant Cunningham, he's always been helpful in the past and he said the exact same thing as Charger Fan. "Fitting" a new hand consists of adding that notch. It's hardened steel, so not something that can be done with a dremel or file. I appreciate the pic. Charger Fan, I was concerned that I'd reassembled the gun incorrectly.
August 27, 2011
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Just picked up a Monson 744 8" today. Really glad I found this post. I wanted to adjust the trigger, and think I may just want to wait. Sounds pretty complicated for my aging eyes. To clean, I'll just run through my solvent tank, blow out, and lubricate. Hope nothing breaks, haven't shot it yet. I've had my 15-2 for nearly 30 yrs. now, and had the chance to trade a Raging Bull .454 even up for this 744. Think I'm gonna like it. It's missing the ported barrel, box and barrel wrench, but I'll pick them up as soon as I can. Love this forum, not posted much, but read a lot.
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