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June 16, 2013
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I've been wondering if 357 brass can be used for light 38 spl loads and bullets.
It seems they might be more accurate since the bullet starts farther forward and has to travel less before reaching the forcing cone. I realize the case will be underfilled, more so than with 38 brass, but I'm not sure it would make much of a difference.
One definite advantage would be no carbon/lead buildup in the cylinder that makes it hard to chamber 357 cartridges later.
Anyone do this? And if so, what kinds of loads do you use. Are there any disadvantages I might be missing?
Thanks
Not a real big deal, but let's move this to the Reloading Forum-Steve
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June 25, 2013
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I like creating loads that are lukewarm in 38's and 357's. There's not much difference in the cases regarding light loads. It all depends on the bullet construction, weight, available space and OAL.
If you want to read up on it Richard Lee goes into some detail on creating safe reduced loads.
Revolvers are easy to load lukewarm for.
Endeavor to persevere,
Press on regardless.
Need little, want less, love more.
November 25, 2009
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handloads.com is an excellent resource for loads by caliber, bullet weight and powder.
Personally I use 158 SWC with 3.2gr of TiteGroup for my 11yo son, 4.5gr of BlueDot for me and if I want to shoot P+ velocity ...7.5gr of BlueDot. Good luck!
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Dans Club
February 22, 2009
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4 gr of Clays under a 125 gr bullet is an easy shooting practice round... the same in Trail Boss is even softer.
Technically, the glass is always full; half liquid, half air....
June 16, 2013
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Maxwell Silver said
If you want to read up on it Richard Lee goes into some detail on creating safe reduced loads.
Yeah, the Lee handbook is pretty much my bible. Just curious what the experience on this forum was re. light loads in 357 brass.
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June 25, 2013
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In 38's I'll put together a small pistol primer with a 148gr BBLWC over 2.5gr Winchester Super Target which is a Dual base Flattened Round Ball fast burning powder this combination creates 16,000 psi and keeps the wadcutter subsonic. No leading, relatively clean and there is still a kick. OAL is 1.60"
In the 357 I'm gonna start working up with 158gr LRN using Trail Boss. Just picked up some last week for the first time. Gonna try it in the 38's w/BBLWC too.
Part of the hobby is I mine the spent bullets and reuse if possible. I can tell when the wadcutters got to hot.
Endeavor to persevere,
Press on regardless.
Need little, want less, love more.
July 22, 2013
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I use .357 light loads with waddcutters for accuracy.
Pretty good results.
But in a 357 revolver.
Try to get 680 fps you will wonder how accurate you will shoot.
June 16, 2013
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Right. I should have mentioned I was referring to using my 15-2, so yes in a 357 revolver.
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June 25, 2013
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Another reason for the light loads and a quick powder is I shoot a snubbie S&W a lot.
Endeavor to persevere,
Press on regardless.
Need little, want less, love more.
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June 25, 2013
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rwsem said
4 gr of Clays under a 125 gr bullet is an easy shooting practice round... the same in Trail Boss is even softer.
After seeing your post Ron I bought and put together some 125gr lead alloy BBRNFP over 3.3gr and 4.6gr in 38's plus some 357's at 4.6 gr of Trail boss.
This powder goes appears to go quick when loading but is does fill the cases much better. It is expensive, or should I say that the dollar is worth less today than yesterday.
Endeavor to persevere,
Press on regardless.
Need little, want less, love more.
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February 22, 2009
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Trail Boss is a bit more expensive, but I like it. I usually have a lot of Clays around and tend to buy in 8# containers, as I shoot Skeet and 5 Stand. Let me know how they do for you.
Just curious- why bevel based in your 38/ 357. You must not push them too hard, huh? I always cast plain base for mild shooting and gas checked boolits for anything I'll run over 1200fps. Never have messed with a BB design mould.
Technically, the glass is always full; half liquid, half air....
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June 25, 2013
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rwsem said
Trail Boss is a bit more expensive, but I like it. I usually have a lot of Clays around and tend to buy in 8# containers, as I shoot Skeet and 5 Stand. Let me know how they do for you.Just curious- why bevel based in your 38/ 357. You must not push them too hard, huh? I always cast plain base for mild shooting and gas checked boolits for anything I'll run over 1200fps. Never have messed with a BB design mould.
I don't have a 125 gr mold. I bought these local. The family run business that produces the cast alloys push High Quality. If you go to their website you'll see how touchy they are about seating their bullets in the case. Bevel Base does make it easier.
I do try to stay in the 700-850 fps range for practice and then load hot with jacketed bullets for show and tell with the kids, hunting and of course SD.
Dardas Cast Bullets, they sell some really quality bullets. The web store seems light on stock but at the local sporting goods store you can buy by the case. Read down on the first page and see how they are about seating and crimping.
http://www.dardascastbullets.com/
Endeavor to persevere,
Press on regardless.
Need little, want less, love more.
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February 22, 2009
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hmm.. different strokes for different folks, I guess.
I agree though- if you use a Lyman M die then you'll never have an issue starting rifle cast bullets. However, I often use the factory expanding die on strait wall pistol cases, and have never had a problem, either. I only use the M die when the flare needs to be excessive to seat an oversized bullet. I particularly like the Hornady New Dimension dies due to the sleeve that catches the bullet long before it starts to slide into the case. Bullet run out is negligible.
It's been my experience that crimping a cast bullet doesn't cause a problem. I roll or taper crimp everything I load except single shots (no crimp needed). The crimp doesn't remain upon ignition- it blows out to the chamber size. More importantly is the trailing edge when shooting PB bullets, particularly when approaching 1200 fps or so. The base of the bullet needs to completely fill the bore or you run the risk of gas cutting which produces leading.
Of course, I'm just shooting for hunting accuracy and am not into Bench Rest competition or splitting DNA.
Technically, the glass is always full; half liquid, half air....
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