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August 20, 2019
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I'm curious if one can put a Model 715 trigger in a 15-2? I noticed the entire side of the 715 trigger(where it rubs the side plate) is raised rather than just the raised semi circle on the side (where it contacts the side plate) of the 15-2 trigger. I thought for that reason a 715 trigger might have less side to side movement than the 15-2 trigger.
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Dans Club
March 25, 2013
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They are interchangable. I have never noticed any difference in side to side movement. The 715 trigger would have a frame mounted trigger return screw. Early 15-2 S had it on the back of the trigger. The only other difference is the model 11,12 14 and 15 porkchops have no ledge for the trigger return spring to rest on. That makes the hammer fall quicker than later porkchops and dash 2s.
Dans Club
December 7, 2020
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Jumping from trigger to hammer....(It's "Hammertime!"), I was told the the hammer in the pic below is from a 44 mag?
It is a small frame Model 8-2. So, now I am confused.
Add to the the different types of hammers. Can someone tell me to purpose of the drop-tab on the lower arm, on the Right one below?
And lastly, is there a link on doing a "trigger Job"? I would like it to squeeze like butter, and maybe a lighter trigger, but not a "hair trigger".
Thanks
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Dans Club
March 25, 2013
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I can't see the "Drop Tab" in that little picture. I have no idea what a drop tab is. The hammer on the right is an early small frame hammer with the shorter hammer tang. The one on the left has a later, longer one. Your bobbed hammer will perform in DA only unless you can somehow cock it. Any small frame hammer will fit. It is not a 44 mag hammer. You need to stop listening to sellers. They are mostly ignorant. My dear deceased FFL buddy told me never educate sellers. In this case, the seller was totally ignorant. I hope you got a deal. There is a gun parts kit on Gunbroker that has a hammer you can use. Or look on eBay. Or I can send you one.
AS far as a trigger job, read the AJT in gunsmithing. Use Wolfe reduced power springs. The trigger return spring in the Wolfe kit is the best thing you can do. DON'T file the sear or strut.
DWF Supporters
March 5, 2024
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This the full size photo... The hammer on the right I have recorded as a large frame version and the left is the small frame version.
the shape of the area circled in red is the question....
Here is a photo of the LF sitting on top of the SF... very close in size...
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Dans Club
February 22, 2009
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Circled in red are the sears for each.
Technically, the glass is always full; half liquid, half air....
Dans Club
December 5, 2008
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Both are small frame hammers! Not large frame.
DWF Supporters
March 5, 2024
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snake-eye said
Both are small frame hammers! Not large frame.
Good to know... Thanks. Given their size I was suspicious of the label on the ".44" hammer.
As to the difference in shape of the sears, any thoughts on why?? One a 15 and the other a 15.2??
Also the thumb is much longer on the ".44" edition... same issue??
I have 2 of the small frame hammers and 5 of the labeled ".44" hammers... would like to get the correct model label on all of them.
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Dans Club
March 25, 2013
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They are both small frame hammers. What you call a drop tab has no function. The one on the left is from pre 1975. The right is the replacement. The hammer was reduced in size and the tang lengthened and slimmed. The reduced hammer face changes nothing. It just strikes the transfer bar. Rwsem and Snake-eye are trying to tell you what I have been saying. Neither hammer is large frame and they are interchangable. The differences are minor and inconsequential.
Dans Club
December 5, 2008
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Ole Dog is right - again!
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March 5, 2024
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Ole Dog said
They are both small frame hammers. What you call a drop tab has no function. The one on the left is from pre 1975. The right is the replacement. The hammer was reduced in size and the tang lengthened and slimmed. The reduced hammer face changes nothing. It just strikes the transfer bar. Rwsem and Snake-eye are trying to tell you what I have been saying. Neither hammer is large frame and they are interchangable. The differences are minor and inconsequential.
Great. Thanks... the ".44" was labeled that way when I got the parts bin 20 years ago and I do not have any detail knowledge of the fine differences. I have updated the label for the ".44" to the correct label.
I understood from Rwsem and Snake-eye that they were both small frame.
Dans Club
December 7, 2020
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Thank you to the experts! I learned a few new things.
August 20, 2019
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Ole Dog said
They are interchangable. I have never noticed any difference in side to side movement. The 715 trigger would have a frame mounted trigger return screw. Early 15-2 S had it on the back of the trigger. The only other difference is the model 11,12 14 and 15 porkchops have no ledge for the trigger return spring to rest on. That makes the hammer fall quicker than later porkchops and dash 2s.
Thanks for the info. All three of my 15-2s have the overtravel screw on the back of the trigger so I'd have to modify a 715 trigger to get it to return properly, I guess. I took your advice on putting a Wolffe RP trigger return spring in two of my 15-2s and it did make a noticeable difference and got an acceptable trigger return without compromising reliability at all. This site has been a wealth of information in the years since buying my first DW. I never would've had the guts to take a DW apart before reading "Average Joe tune up" but have countless times since.
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Dans Club
March 25, 2013
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It is, nice to be appreciated. 😉
Dans Club
December 5, 2008
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I don't believe that the overtravel stop screw is a required part for functioning of your DW. It is a convenience to enhance accuracy. Try using a trigger without the stop screw.
August 20, 2019
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snake-eye said
I don't believe that the overtravel stop screw is a required part for functioning of your DW. It is a convenience to enhance accuracy. Try using a trigger without the stop screw.
When the overtravel screw gets too far into the trigger (out of adjustment) on two of my 15-2s the trigger makes contact with the trigger guard and gets wedged into the guard and fails to return. Less than two threads showing is about where it becomes a problem. You can clearly see the contact points where the blue has worn. So at least on my guns it's necessary to function properly.
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Dans Club
March 25, 2013
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I assume those two guns have frame mounted over travel screws. If you remove the screws from the inside and screw them in from the outside, the adjustment then does not entail removing the sideplate and lockwork. A little blue loctite can keep it in place if you like.
August 20, 2019
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Ole Dog said
I assume those two guns have frame mounted over travel screws. If you remove the screws from the inside and screw them in from the outside, the adjustment then does not entail removing the sideplate and lockwork. A little blue loctite can keep it in place if you like.
I mentioned in post #13 (replying to you) the screws are on the back side of triggers. Snake-eye said he didn't think the over travel screws effected the function of the revolver. My post #16 was explaining to Snake it does effect function.
Dans Club
February 24, 2013
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I’m curious what’s going on here, I hope you figure out why the overtravel causes the trigger to hang up at full pull/travel. When it happens, what do you do to get it unstuck?
August 20, 2019
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KurtB said
I’m curious what’s going on here, I hope you figure out why the overtravel causes the trigger to hang up at full pull/travel. When it happens, what do you do to get it unstuck?
Pretty simple really. If the set screw on the back of trigger isn't sticking out far enough the trigger wedges itself into the trigger guard making contact as shown in photos. The trigger pops back out with a little help. As long as there's a couple screw threads showing outside the rear of the trigger it returns just fine. The problem was when shooting the overtravel screw would gradually screw deeper into the trigger an eventually allow the trigger to make contact with the trigger guard again. A drop of blue lock tite on the screw corrected it. No more problem now.
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