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August 20, 2019
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Range trip #2 : After 75 rounds the hammer was not going back either SA or DA without fiddling with the gun. The cylinder locking lug would drop down into the frame but the hammer would stop. With the cylinder open it wasn't a problem so I'm guessing hand/extractor star interaction is the issue? Either the star or hand is my uneducated guess. That brings me to the question concerning the condition of the hand. There is a brand new M15 hand for $20 I saw if this is likely the problem. Do they drop in or have to fitted? What does the condition of the hand look like to you? Edit: it is back to working at the moment.
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Dans Club
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November 17, 2008
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First check cylinder gap. Then clean excessively. LB
Wisdom is merely the realization of how little one knows, therefore I am wise.
October 1, 2012
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Agree with LB on gap and internal cleaning . The hand is a precise fitted part. It is critical to the timing of the revolver. you might have a broken hand spring. It can cause unpredictable malfunction as you describe.
Dans Club
December 5, 2008
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The hand looks fine.
I agree with others - check gap, then hand spring.
August 20, 2019
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Thanks for the advice. I looks like I have overlooked the obvious. It was my second range trip with my "new" 15-2. The barrel and cylinder were touching when I bought the gun so I reset the gap at .004 but I didn't gauge all the chambers. I guess that's the reason DW supplied a .006 gauge originally. Today(after your advice) I found the forcing cone was rubbing the cylinder. I reset the gap for .004 on the tightest chamber. If it happens again I'll open it up to .005. While I had the hand off I cleaned the groove the hand spring rides in. I thoroughly cleaned the gun as always. My Ruger GP100s gaps are .006-.007 and I never ran into fouling causing binding at B/C gap so I didn't think of it. Being able to take the barrel off sure makes cleaning the forcing cone easier especially in that hard to reach spot up by the strap.
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Dans Club
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November 17, 2008
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Glad it worked. Folks tend to forget metal expands when it heats up so as you shoot the cylinder gap shrinks. The beauty of a Dan is you can experiment until you find the sweet spot.
LB
Wisdom is merely the realization of how little one knows, therefore I am wise.
Dans Club
December 5, 2008
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Another sneaky problem with similar symptoms is loose side plate screws. It will allow the hand and spring to get out of proper place and mess up timing.
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Dans Club
March 25, 2013
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You are a good trouble shooter..004 should work fine. Do not force the feeler gauge into the gap. If you do it will push the cylinder back against the dedent ball and give you a false reading. The cylinder of the small frame Dan will expand after several cylinders worth of rounds but 004 should be okay. Take a rag with you and wipe the cylinder face every couple of reloads. Even a little soot can cause binding if you use less gap than 006. Take the barrel tool with you when you go shooting. If you have a gun made before 1986 do not pound on the extractor if cases are stuck. You can knock the cylinder stop on the sideplate off. The large Allen wrench on the tool or an eraser pencil work good but again, keep undue pressure off the cylinder stop. Last piece of advice, Wolff reducer power springs greatly help the double action trigger. Use the 8lb mainspring. The trigger return spring makes a big difference.
August 20, 2019
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Thanks for the advice, Ole Dog, My gun's a 1981 and the cylinder stop did fall out while shooting without pounding the extractor on my first range trip. I used red loctite on it when I pressed it in. I support the cylinder with my left hand when extracting to take the pressure off the cylinder lock.
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