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May 16, 2012
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Hello guys!
I am having trouble with intermediate light strikes on DA. The problem fist occurred with geco 38spl, I blamed the ammo and went on. Last week magtech's were available at the range, and I never faced any problems with them. Again the same thing, out of 6 the gun would discharge only 3 or 4. OK, I thought thank god "snake eyes" Tim who has provided me several parts including two EWK hammer springs.
I read some of the forum posts about DA light strikes and went on and fully disassembled my Dan, cleaned the firing pin, its port, the retaining ball and lots of gunk was removed since these the areas were left untouched from factory. Also the main hammer spring was replaced, the new one was about 5-6 mils longer, did not count the coils though. Today at the range full of confidence I tried to squeeze off the first round and click!!!! nothing happened
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Fast or slow trigger pull seemed to have no effect. Some times all six would fire and sometimes with a similar trigger pull four would fire. Fired about 150rnds and the problem seems quite reduced, but with more than enough occasional light strikes. I tried before and after disassembly messing with the grip screw without success. The cylinder seems to have no end shake and is tight as a drum. Looking at the casings primers, the light strikes indentations were visible although not as shallow as before.
Below is photo of a thin brass sheet test with open cylinder and there is a slight different firing pin print. Is the main spring my problem? And since its new what should I do, custom longer firing pin? I believe that EWK springs are rated as the factory ones. Wolf springs would be tricky for me since most of you know I live in Greece. Sorry for the long post. Any advise would be greatly appreciated!
Dans Club
December 5, 2008
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Hi Albert,
Sorry about your troubles. I have seen 3 main things cause light strikes: weak or too light mainspring; too much cylinder end shake; and, mainspring seat too loose. You seem to have checked the first 2. Have you taken a look at your mainspring seat?
This is a not so obvious problem since most of them have been preset at the factory and then peened into position. However I have seen some that will turn and when they back out of the frame they lighten the main spring tension. If it backs out far enough, your sideplate screw will not be long enough to reach the mainspring guide in order to remove tension on the hammer for disassembly.
May 16, 2012
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Hello Tim. Thanks for your advice, as I can narrow down my search. I did more research in the forum and it seems that I may be wrong about the end-shake. I checked the mainspring seat and it is properly seated as only one thread is visible and the long side-plate screw threads just fine to hold the spring back.
Back to the end-shake, I did not measure since I am trying to find my inch filler gauge but I think there is some excess movement, mind you I have handled only one Dan Wesson! Since the mainspring is new and its seat is Ok end-shake could be the culprit. Additionally it may had something to do with my timing issues in the past. Then I made a tad thicker edge hand and it worked.
I decided to construct a rough cylinder shim, I used very thin brass sheet since its quite malleable, as a temporary solution for checking. The end-shake was halved and the cylinder closes just fine. I wonder if a gun has excessive end-shake wouldn’t light strike on SA also? The hand now pushes a bit harder on the star but works fine without any damage.Now I must wait until range time.
A small issue am facing now is that the 4” tube that is currently on the gun goes only so far in the frame and then it binds, before the “shimming” I had a gap of about .007+ and now has gone up to probably .009. I am thinking of shaving a couple of threads of the barrel, did anyone had a similar issue? Thanks for your help!
Dans Club
December 5, 2008
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Hopefully you have found your problem. End shake is probably the most common cause of light strikes.
From your description, I think you are saying that you cannot screw the barrel any further into the frame in order to reduce the gap between it and the cylinder. If so, then you have a problem with the threads on your barrel because you should be able to screw it in far enough to touch the cylinder. Try removing the barrel and examining it closely with a magnifying glass. You should be able to see the threads that are causing the problem. It could just be dirt in the threads or rust that is obstructing the threads. If the threads are bent, you may have to find an appropriate thread chaser or restorer die to fix the threads. Sometimes it can be done with a knife blade or similar tool if you are careful.
Good luck. Keeping my fingers crossed!
February 20, 2008
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Hello-should you not be able to find your feeler gauge, go to an auto parts store fro a quick fix.
If you're going to drink, don't drive. Don't even putt.
February 3, 2018
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Not trying to be crazy, but are you putting the right end of the barrel in?
The cylinder end of the barrel has a small portion at the end that is not threaded.
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Dans Club
March 25, 2013
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The cylinder end threads are also longer than the muzzle end. I always use a brass brush and Flitz or just oil on the barrel threads when I get a Dan. They are up to 48 years old and rust or dirt could be in the threads. When I clean a gun for the first time I oil and brush the threads on both ends, the frame threads and the nut. After wiping I lightly re- oil them and screw the barrel as far into the frame as it will go. Then I back it out to close the cylinder and set the gap. This gets all debris out. If you could get not further than .007 you either have dirt or rust or a damaged thread. I suspect you would have noticed a damaged thread.
May 16, 2012
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Hello guys! After shimming the gun works great. I have fired around 400 rounds (magtech 38, geco 38, fiocchi 357), with only 2 misfires, I think its OK. About the barrel issue, Wbrco I have never tried to place the barrel in reverse except if I want to test the threads. Ole Dog & Tim I always keep on a eye on the barrel and frame threads and everything looks perfect. Every barrel I have will only thread into the frame until it binds, usually a little bit aft the cylinder face (except the 4") , this led me to think that maybe the threading on the barrel-frame is tapered. So what you are saying is that normally I should be able to thread the barrel all the way in until it almost clears the threads?
Dans Club
December 5, 2008
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Albert,
It's great to hear you fixed your problem with the light primer strikes.
As to the barrel threads, yes you should be able to thread the barrel into the frame the full length of the threads, but only with the cylinder open. At that point, the barrel will be so far into the frame opening that the cylinder will not close. If you cannot screw the barrel in far enough to touch the face of the cylinder with the cylinder closed, then I think there is an issue with your threads, especially if you cannot get the gap below .009".
Try using a magnifying glass to check the threads, if you haven't already done this. You can also try threading the barrel nut onto the cylinder end of the barrel and turn it until it goes all the way to the end of the threads on the barrel. This could clean out the threads and also tell you if there is a problem because it will stop if the threads are damaged or rusted. Unless the threads are badly bent, you should be able to work the nut back and forth over the threads until they are improved enough to be functional.
Good luck!
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Dans Club
March 25, 2013
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What he said! !!! Snake-eye knows his stuff.
May 16, 2012
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Tim I checked all the barrels and the treads were excellent, also the barrel nut test proved that all the barrels threads were ok. So I gave a thorough look at the frame threads, as you suggested, and they were also good except of the last coil at the end of the frame towards the cylinder. This coil had a rough edge. I used an oval file and gave it a few light passes. Although the barrels still won't go all the way in, the 4" which had the worst issue (probably on this barrel the threads go a bit further) finally can rotate a little bit more for a correct gap size! Thank you Tim for all your educated advice.
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