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Dans Club
March 2, 2008
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After doing some polishing and research, and after seeing the shrouds SHOOT got, I have reached a few conclusions on this process. First, a disclaimer/clarification: This is (was) only ever going to be a kitchen table project for me, completed with hobbyist tool and materials only.
1) The extremely high polish Stainless requires a process best begun at the early stages of manufacture. There are no 1-2 step processes that I can find that go from moderately nice to mirror finish. When done correctly, getting to a mirror finish involves several steps in abrasives, and then several steps in polishing.
2) When I compare a stainless DW with a Colt or S&W, it looks to me as though DW did less polishing of the stainless in production than the "Big Two". Different pieces of my 715 are kind of inconsistent in the level of final polish.
3) The shroud, because of the nice straight lines, shows better results. The rounded areas of the shroud show better results than the flats, so far.
4) Removing scratches and dings is a tough process, that may leave some evidence that there was sanding done. Obviously, starting with a new gun makes that problem go away.
Without a bench grinder, a variety of wheels (sisal, denim, felt), and several levels of polishing compound, I'm never going to get a bright, mirror polish. What I am going to get is a revolver several levels brighter than normal. The polishing actually becomes the highest level of cleaning you can do on stainless, and smooths up and alings the grain of the stainless causing light to reflect more brightly and evenly. It will never be bright nickel, it will be noticeably cleaner, brighter, and shinier than standard stainless.
I went to a bookstore and asked the saleswoman "Were is the Self Help Section?" She said if she told me, it would defeat the purpose.
George Carlin
January 22, 2008
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Steve, I'm sure we're going to see some photos as this project progresses. 
Dans Club
March 2, 2008
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I actually took a few today, photos don't really show how much better it's coming out.
I went to a bookstore and asked the saleswoman "Were is the Self Help Section?" She said if she told me, it would defeat the purpose.
George Carlin
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Range Officers
Dans Club
February 28, 2009
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Steve CT said:
I actually took a few today, photos don't really show how much better it's coming out.
Well, you gotta show us anyway. 
-Mike
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Range Officers
May 2, 2009
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I just read some Internet info that stated pretty much the same thing...level of polish starts with the production of the SS itself. Some grades lend to polishing better. Basically if you plan on having a mirror finish, you need to start with the best finish possible.
Last night--just for fun I hit a normal everyday shooter grade SS shroud with some Mothers mag wheel polish. It made a noticeable difference in the appearance of the shroud. Not that it was any more "polished", but it was noticeably cleaner and shinier. A good 5 minute fix-up for your used SS DW.
SHOOT
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Dans Club
February 28, 2009
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The difference in polishability of stainles has nothing to do with the original finish. It has to do with the grade (alloy) of stainless, for example 316 comes to mind. I have forgotten all I used to know about this and can't find my reference materials, but if I remember corectly, the higher the nickle content of the SS alloy, the more it will polish up.
I'm quite sure that we could get that information from Keith (for the current production SS). However, it seems to me that SHOOT's polished shroud is a good indication of the possibilities here.
And I agree with Steve; it's going to take a polishing wheel and proper media to get a mirror finish.
Steve. And we still want to see 
of the results.
-Mike
January 17, 2010
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curiosity got me, i did what shootist done. i used maas and a dremel with buffing wheel. the results are not polished by any standard. but alot cleaner and brighter. i think this is as far as i will go for this piece. i am gonna be hunting with it, don't need it too bright. i noticed when wiping with a rag the surface is alot smoother...less friction on rag and also shows fingerprints alot better now.
i was thinking about putting it in the blaster with some mild media to make it look like the satin stainless of the smiths i have. or, dare i say,? gonna have it coated with a firearm finnish like robar or duracoat.
i think polishing it would only require smoothing the surface profile right? and the type of stainless that it is would decide how well this surface will "give" to being smoothed. it also makes sense that the higher the nickel content the more "shine" it'll have. so what type of stainless is a Dan made of?
can't wait to see steve's results. it'll look like it could should bolted onto my harley?
"experience is the hardest teacher, the test comes before the lesson"
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Range Officers
May 2, 2009
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I didn't even get out the dremel 🙂 I just used an old piece of sock and gave it a decent 5 min rubbing by hand. It made enough of a differerence to me that --some cold day when there is nothing to do -- I'll pull out the 715 PP and give her a once over.
Just to keep the polishing discussion going... Last night I pulled out a downright ugly 15 VH blue shroud. It has some dings in the blue, some surface rust, etc. Definately a shooter grade barrel. I took the Mothers and TRIED to remove the bluing--no dice. What I ended up with was a nicely polished shroud with some shiny silver spots where true "dings" and scratches were. Much better in appearance--actually a useable shroud. Now I don't know if I really removed any blue or not--DW blue is so deep it is hard to tell if I thinned it or not. I wanted to try the Mothers because it is more harsh than Flitz in my opinion.
SHOOT
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January 24, 2009
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That's interesting Shoot, I would have also guessed that the Mothers would remove (or at least make noticeably thin) the bluing.
Maybe it only works when you DON'T want to remove the bluing?
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