December 12, 2017
I have a really old Pork Chop. The serial number 40XXX. My problem is i am getting light strikes in double action. I have read all the threads on pistols with this issue
I have replaced all the springs, the connector, and hand. I have a main spring that King Kong has trouble pulling back the hammer.
My question is how long should the firing pin be?
I bought the gun and knew is was used and abused. I thought i could clean it up and all would be good but this problem persists.
Early firing pins were straight and narrow with a spring with uniform shape. They proved delicate and were replaced by a conical, stronger firing pin with a spring that fit the conical shape. Yours may have broken or chipped. You may be able to find the newer type on eBay. Get a spring too. However, it may not be the problem. Clean out the firing pin recess. It may have dried oil or residue in it. Maybe the screw holding the pin in has backed out a turn and it needs to be tightened. There could also be some end shake in the cylinder and you need to put a trigger shim between the crane and cylinder. There are other members who have had issues they fixed and will undoubtedly chime in with advice. We won't leave you out in the cold.
October 17, 2017
With that serial number you definitely have a DW15-1. Mine is 39###. These have the same lock work as the 15-2’s with the exception of the firing pin as Ole Dog has described. Unfortunately the newer firing pin will not fit in a pork chop. The best you could do would be to have a machinist grind down a newer pin to fit. I think it’s unlikely the firing pin spring is broken, but it’s possible. Also, it’s quite a different task to shim the cylinder on a pork chop; you have to purchase special shims specifically for these guns and place them underneath the removable cylinder collar/gas ring. The heavy main spring you installed should have fixed the light strikes, so there is something else causing this to happen. Ole Dog’s suggestion of cleaning out the firing pin recess is a good one. Examine the pin closely for any damage. For further analysis a few photos with the side plate removed would be helpful.
I am not a reloaded yet. I did a little goggling and it seems that a lot of problems with light strikes is primers not being seated fully. I am just reporting my research. I am not knowledgeable enough to know from experience. Try some factory ammo and see if you have the problem.
October 17, 2017
Yes, that’s definitely a pork chop firing pin, and in fine condition. I’m beginning to wonder if your light primer strikes could be off center strikes. We had a case recently where it turned out that the upper crane leg was slightly bent causing off center hits; thus the rounds failed to fire. You’ve stated that you replaced the hand; was it worn/damaged? When firing double action, the hammer drops a tad earlier than in single action, and this sometimes does not allow for full rotation and lockup of the cylinder. Some folks like to “stage” the hammer fall in double action rather than a steady follow through with the trigger. I personally don’t think DW’s lend themselves to this approach. Could you examine the non firing rounds to check for off center hits? Worth a look. Does this revolver pass the SLOW hammer draw test; cylinder fully locked in place before the hammer reaches full cock position? Otherwise, I’m really stumped on this one.
December 12, 2017
I did check the cylinder lock up with the slow draw. The timing was a bit off and the firing pin strike was a bit off center. The new hand put the strike dead center
When i bought the gun it was used and abused and i knew it was going to be a challenge.
The cylinder is fairly tight, but i think i might try a new cylinder ball/spring, cylinder stop and shim the cylinder to see if that helps
i will see if i can find some way to see if the crane leg is bent
appreciate you guys helping out
October 17, 2017
I doubt the crane leg is bent, but it doesn’t hurt to check it. Good luck on getting the gas ring to come out of the cylinder if you decide you need to add shims. They can be almost impossible to free up, yet there are a few that actually come out fairly easily. I had one that simply wouldn’t budge, and ended up sacrificing it (damaging it beyond repair during removal), and replaced with an old stock one I got from Numrich. If you end up going that route you might want to check with them to see if they still have any. Ole Dog has said the the DW is a thinking man’s gun; he’s probably right.
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February 22, 2009
Make sure the grip screw isn't too tight/ too long- that can cause issues as well.
Technically, the glass is always full; half liquid, half air....
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