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February 21, 2011
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I recently lucked into a grab bag of .38Spl / .357 Mag reloading dies.
All are RCBS, of varying ages.
I sorted the lot into sets & have come up with a couple of "sets" for .38 Spl. I already am set up for .357, but couldn't resist. (I have a spare tool-head just begging to be used)!
I reload on a Dillon RL550b, so the expanding die isn't needed because of Dillons "powder through expander" die system.
I also decap off press on my old single stage Lyman with a Lee Universal decapping die & then cycle through the Dillon's 4 stages from there on in. I do this because the Dillon's weakest feature is it's decapping & priming in the same station, dumping old fired primer residue into the priming part of the process.
RCBS has different "sets" of 3 die sets for strait wall pistol cases.
Ok enough background.
What is the function of the threads at the top opening of the resizing die from the 3-die set where Die One resizes ONLY & Die 2 decaps & neck expands?
(the one off to the right, we're viewing from the REAR of the Dillon tool-head.)
Because of the Dillon press design I HAVE to flare & powder charge at station two.
My (lazy) intent is to have a quick change from .357 JHP to .38 Spl lead RN or SWC.
As always TIA
Matthew Quigley on handguns:
“I said I never had much use for one. Never said
I didn't know how to use it.”
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Dans Club
February 22, 2009
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In RCBS Group B dies, the de-capping and expanding/belling are done in separate dies
Technically, the glass is always full; half liquid, half air....
February 21, 2011
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OK I get that.
What does it have to do with the threads?
Matthew Quigley on handguns:
“I said I never had much use for one. Never said
I didn't know how to use it.”
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Moderators
Dans Club
February 22, 2009
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The threads are to screw an expander stem into the die. Maybe I don't understand your question clearly?
Technically, the glass is always full; half liquid, half air....
February 21, 2011
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I need to do that to work with the Dillon RL550b. It decaps, primes, resizes all at station one, so I can't use the resize on station one, flare on stage 2, charge powder on stage 3 & so on.
I called RCBS & a very nice helpful lady is mailing me a complete decapping stem (plus 2 guide bushings & lock-nuts, because thees no way to tell which thread form my die has) & a seater plug for SWC bullets (I have a RN one already) at no charge!
Thanks for your help!
Matthew Quigley on handguns:
“I said I never had much use for one. Never said
I didn't know how to use it.”
Dans Club
February 24, 2013
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Not sure I understand your question either, but here’s my Dillon RL550 setup for 9mm.
February 21, 2011
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Are those RCBS dies? They look more like lee?
Matthew Quigley on handguns:
“I said I never had much use for one. Never said
I didn't know how to use it.”
Dans Club
February 24, 2013
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Good question, I’ll look at them closer and see if I can tell. I bought the whole setup from a good friend a couple years ago. It was setup for 9mm so I’ve reloaded about 3K rounds 9mm since the purchase. The purchase also included dies for .357, 45ACP & .445, but I’ve only done 9mm so far. I’ll have to have my buddy over to show me how to swap to another caliber one of these days.
February 21, 2011
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It's really easy to do if you have the dies in their own tool head.
Unhook the powder rod.
Pull the 2 pins at the front & back.
Slide the whole shebang out sideways.
Slide the new tool-head & dies in & replace the pins.
Reconnect the new powder activator rod.
-=+* you may or may not need to do this, depending on what you're switching to. *+=-
IF they share a rim configuration, skip this step, otherwise change the shell-holder.
remove the 3 brass locating pins.
Raise the ram partway. look into the side below the head.
Loosen (don't remove) the flush hex bolt.
Unscrew the big hex nut in the center of the head & pull it out.
BE CAREFUL there's a spring-loaded ball bearing in there, don't loose it!
Insert the new Shell-holder.
Replace the big center bolt & tighten just enough that the plate spins easily but has no wobble. do this with a case in each die station & rotate it fully to fine tune the tightness.
Tighten the little lock nut in the ram.
Double check rotation & wobble.
Drop in the new locator pins.
-=+* you may or may not need to do this, depending on what you're switching to. *+=-
IF the primers are the same size skip this.
If you're switching small>> large, or large >> small
Raise the ram slightly & unhook the primer actuator rod.
Swap the primer feed arm & cup.
replace the actuator rod & lower the ram.
You're done!
Matthew Quigley on handguns:
“I said I never had much use for one. Never said
I didn't know how to use it.”
Dans Club
February 24, 2013
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Wow thanks! I’m gonna cut-n-paste this info for later reference.
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