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March 22, 2009
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I have been reloading .44 on a RLS 3 for the better part of 2 decades. I am not a n00b to the reloading process. I recently purchased a Lee Pro 1000 to reload .44s to streamline the process. I know there are people out there that will say I should have bought a Dillon but that's not what this thread is about so you need not tell me so.
I am actually pretty pleased with the way it works but I have an issue with the "autodisk" powder measurer that someone might be able to help me with.
I am used to loading with powder charges weighed out perfectly on my Pact digital scale/automatic trickler combo and every charge is perfect to the 10th of a grain (it's just the way I always did it). The auto disk throws charges varrying as much as .7 grains and this concernes me a bit. I have used unique, 800-x, Winchester 296 and I have IMR 4227 to try. So my question is: Is there a powder out there that will meter a little more consistantly through the Lee Autodisk that I haven't tried? ... If not, would you guys find loads vary up to .7 grains acceptable. NOTE: These are loads on the lighter side and even with the variation they are not exceeding what I would consider "max" loadings.
February 4, 2009
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Hey Drew.
Unfortunately, I don't have an answer for your primary question. I was always under the impression that the "autodisc" should work very well with the ball powders but you've already tried 296 without much luck. I have heard they can be fickle with the extruded powders though.
As for .7gr variation, I would be a bit concerned with that lack of consistency. It sounds like the loads may still be safe since you load at the lower end of spec, but that variation can't be helping with a consistent POI. If it were me, I would probably continue using the Pact- of course I understand this pretty much dissolves any "streamlining" that you were shooting for by purchasing the Lee in the first place.
Hopefully, someone with a Lee has an answer that will help you out.
February 15, 2009
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I never had any powder with that kind of variation. Please be sure to tap the case to settle the powder and run 4-5 rounds before starting. You have to keep your eye on it so that the powder keeps flowing down. You need to keep it at least a quarter full. When you're powder gets down there you'll notice low areas in the middle of the powder. It needs tapping.Tapping the side to keep the powder settled all the way down is important. In my other house the surface of my bench would vibrate when belling and adding powder keeping the powder down and I would still have to make sure it stayed down. If you didn't let it get past half full you'd not have to worry about it.
Most loads of both .357 and .44 are moderate loads using Unique. Many times I've tested accuracy and poi to make sure all is good. Groups from both guns at 25 yards is 1.5″. I didn't do much in load develpment as I could have so accuracy could probably be better. The other two powders I use are 2400 and 296. I've had no problems keeping everything under .2 variation and 90% of the time it's less. I'd make sure I was throwing accurate powder charges or would fix what is wrong.
Make sure you have the reservoir flat on the disk with no powder or anything else in between and with just enough slack to let the disk always slide freely and no more. If it sticks at all it needs to be loosened. Hope this helps. They do work but it's one of those things you have to get used a bit.
I'm back to a single stage press and the first thing I also needed was the Pro auto disk kit. This speeds up using a single stage considerably. The only thing I didn't like on the basic auto disk was the way the screws went into that cheap plastic reservoir. I wouldn't load handgun without one though.
March 22, 2009
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Thanks guys ... good info.
I haven't played with it much lately and haven't yet run more than 50 rounds through it. It may just be a matter of getting used to the quirkyness of it. I still have 4227 to try in it. It's an extruded powder but is really fine but not anywhere near as fine as the "sugar-like" flattened spheres of W296. With most loads, 4227 can match the ballistics of 296. It seemed that the 296 was wedging itselve everywhere there was a tiny little gap. I had to take the whole press apart and clean it out of EVERYWHERE... LOL.
I purchased the bullet feed for the Pro 1000 (both the long and short sizes) so I can spend more time paying attention to how the autodisk is dropping powder. I did losen the thrird mounting bolt in the back of the press to allow a little more vibration during the operation of the press. This should help the power drop and fill the autodisk more consistantly... but really.. I thinik it's just a matter of using it and figuring out the quirks. I shot a couple hundred rounds (including the ones loaded on this press.. no problems) this past weekends so I have a good lot of brass to reload. Perhaps a good "run" on this press will allow me to figure it out.
If I can get this within my "tollerance" I'm gonna buy one for my .223 as that's the gun for which I really need the speed of a progressive press.
February 15, 2009
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Since my last post I finally did some reloading of some .357 brass using 2400. Loads varied from 16.4 to 16.5. I checked numerous times as I haven't loaded in several years and this stuff is all brand new. I'm using the Pro version which is definitely worth having. If you have the cheaper auto disk kit it would be worth the little bit of money to get the upgrade kit.
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