October 15, 2009
Hey gang,
I just started reloading for my DW .357 Max. During todays range session I noticed a fair amount of unburnt powder in my barrel.
I'm using Magtech primers, all I could find locally, No.7/12 small rifle. 17/12 grains Reloder 7, per Lyman Manual, starting load. As I work up I would expect MORE unburnt powder.
I've read many product reviews on both of these products.........everybody loves 'em !
Do I need to crimp tighter ? The crimp I started with is in the center of the cannelure and passes a fingertip pretty smoothly, a fingernail catches it.
I'm using the Lee Factory Crimp Die, seems to be a great product. Any thoughts ?
Hank
Range Officer
Range Officers
Dans Club
February 9, 2009
October 15, 2009
Hi,
Just re-reading my post. It seems kinda wierd to be lookin' at crimp to solve what sounds like a weak primer problem. I had never thought it would be a factor, but the sheet that came from Lee with that crimping die makes a big deal about keeping the bullet in the case long enough to ignite the powder charge completely and build pressure. I haven't seen anything much negative about that powder, and I know it's used in many rifle applications where there would be a lot more powder to burn. My guess is that any small rifle primer should spark off a load as small as I was using. This load was pushing a 180gr. Sierra jacketed bullet.
H
July 5, 2009
happyhank,
Let me preface my comments by saying that I'm not a reloading expert, but I have been reloading for a long time.
The unburnt powder could be caused by one or more reasons including, but not limited to, powder freshness, powder burn rate, powder type (granular, flake, spherical, etc.) , the crimp or lack thereof, the recipe your using (i.e., combination of case, primer size and manufacturer, powder type and charge, and bullet type and weight), chamber pressure, barrel length, etc. Reloader 7 burns at a slower rate than the 4227, AA-1680 and H-110 powders that SMF uses. Changing to a faster burning powder may solve your problem.
Reloading is as much of an art as it is a science. I do not know anything about Reloader 7. However, even though it's a popular powder with broad applications, it may not be well suited for your specific application. The unburnt powder problem may be solved by simply increasing the powder charge to the mid-range of the load chart (incrementally of course, watching for signs of high pressure). I do not believe anyone can provide you with a "magic bullet". You will have to solve the matter by working up recipes, observing their performance in your revolver, and choosing the recipes that are best suited for your application. I know that this is not the answer you're looking for, but there are just too many variables to wrap your arms around.
GG
October 26, 2008
I tried Reloader 7 in my 357 SM and had the exact same results, it seemed to be fairly accurate but the velocity was really low, I think it is too slow for the Max. It also is really bulky, my starting load was a compressed load. Another one to avoid is AA5744 in Max, If I remember correctly the velocity was around 1200 with really bad pressure signs (primers that were completely flat and had flowed back into the firing pin hole). I'd recommend highly AA1680, I've also had good luck with 2400 and either one of the 4227's (H is my preference but they don't make it anymore).
January 17, 2010
I agree with greyghost.....a mid range and higher should burn more of the volume of powder.
i reload for some cowboy action stuff.....we use way minimum charges, and as of late they have made new powders to help also. the old trick was to mix with cornmeal and such to bump up the volume and help it burn better.
My 2c is that maybe the rifle primer is knocking the bullet off crimp before all powder burns....and thus follows behind bullet...spilling unburnt powder from barrel?
reloading is an art...labor of love. load development involves primer/powder changes and charge weights all over the place...and many range trips to test also. just terrible work i tell ya!
general idea is to try some new things..and see what works for ya. maybe even the powder has deteriorated?
let us/me know what ya find out.
"experience is the hardest teacher, the test comes before the lesson"
Range Officer
Range Officers
Dans Club
February 9, 2009
I agree with Superdan about the H4227, it was my favorite also but since it is no longer made I have moved on to IMR's 4227. The three powders I have used in the 357Max leave little to no reside or unburnt powder. The H-110 has more flame than the 4227's quite noticeably, AA-1680 seems to be in the middle as far as the flame factor.
A man cannot have too many SuperMags
We've got two topics going about 357 SuperMag loads. Since I also have questions I figured I would post here and keep the other topic to just loads.
So here goes...
I bought a can of IMR 4227, Remington Small Rifle Primers and a pack of 180 gr Hollow soft points. Like the bullet on the right below. So what load should I start with. I haven't found any load info for this bullet.
Supporter
Moderators
January 24, 2009
January 17, 2010
i stand corrected on the rifle primer issue.
started my own batch of supermags......but with remmy primers. not loaded hot though.
when i saw post about unburned powder...make me think of the cowboy shooting we do. ya see alot of that with minimum loads. trailboss was the cure.
this is a diff animal. i retract my suggestion of rifle primer being improper for super/max mags.
"experience is the hardest teacher, the test comes before the lesson"
October 15, 2009
Thanks to all of you for your input and personal experience that you all share freely !
I'm NOT "too cool for school", I guess I'll be trying IMR4227, rather than switch to magnum primers [Lyman recomends that for some loads]. If I can pick your brains yet again, I'd like to find a powder that works very well with .357mag and .357max. Looks like maybe 2400 ?
Any thoughts ?
H
December 12, 2009
If you want performance with little or no pressure issues, AA1680 is the best for 357 SuperMag I have found. The accuracy load for me is 4227. The 1680 is my choice for all purpose rounds. I run a 180 grain lasercast max load is 25.5 with a small rifle primer this will deliver a average of 1575 fps, in a 8 inch barrel. The same load with a small pistol magnum will leave some powder behind and a loss of about 20 FPS. The small pistol load at 25.0 has no powder issue and will hit a 1530 or so.
The 4227 will do say as comparison a nickel and the AA 1680 quarter in a 10 to 15 yards on a rest, The advantage in the velocity with no real pressure even in target load falls to the 1680 loadings.
If you start loading 1680 I would go at 23.0 and start up. I am a little bias towards the 1680, as I have benched and crony the following, IMR4227, H110, Lil gun. Beware of lil gun in maximum, in magnum it show it self as a screamer with good accuracy, with some temperature issues on some loads. In maximum it is all pressure, all the time. And no accuracy to speak of. And temperature is a big issue. But I will say that is what I experienced using it.
Superdan has very good luck with 2400 and one day I will get him over again and run up some of them loads too.( We usually need a dumpster to carry the empty brass home on them days…LOL). I say try them all as every gun is different, and bullets and primers factor in it too. What works in mine, may not in yours.
But that's me and my gun and my testing and my opinion. I do want want to step on any anybody's toe's here. As we all have our pet loads around here.
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